weldted Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Hi All, having a lot of problems with this system fitted to my new van. First fitted Sept 2019 at first all was well other than an occasional false trigger. When in France it went off with no warning in the early hours off the morning and would not switch off. Ended up disconnecting the siren, the particular fault is separate from the immobiliser side so still able to drive van Replacement unit sent from UK with instructions how to fit so no problem? Over the last couple of weeks it has triggered a few times, van is park on drive in enclosed garden no signs of attempted break in. Though maybe batteries on the wireless sensors low. Replaced batteries, alarm went off after a couple of days. According to the code from the LED its the bonnet sensor, disconnected it and isolated the wire so no chance of grounding. Rest after a couple of hours went off again, Sam four flashes from the led showing bonnet alarm, followed wire back to the brain no signs of trapping or chasing. A very expensive alarm so getting frustrated. Ideas please I know can use the van but had to have this spec alarm for insurance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 My 2006 PVC was fitted with a Laserline alarm from new. I do not know how much it cost, as it was bundled with the vehicle price. As a professionally qualified electrical engineer, I was not impressed with the quality of the installation. The crimped connections to the added fuse appeared to have been performed with side cutting pliers, and one of the fuse wires pulled out of its crimp, when other work was being examined in the same area. Likewise several earth connections were bundled into a doubly oversized ring crimp, which again seemed to have been crimped with side cutting pliers. Also a cable which crossed the vehicle under the edge of the dash, was poorly routed and not secured. Like weldted I had problems with the bonnet sensor switch. The alarm occasionally failed to set after the bonnet had been opened. I used a lump of blu-tack, (no Plasticine available) to check the clearance under the bonnet when closed, and readjusted the switch for reasonable over travel with the bonnet closed. End of problem. I have concerns regarding a loose wire that was just tucked into the control unit, the complete lack of information regarding alterations to the vehicle wiring, (What does anyone do if the unit renders the vehicle immobile in a remote location?) and the placement of the main unit which obstructs removal of the starter battery. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Look up Laserline on google and give them a ring. I had problems a few years back and rang them up, they diagnosed the problem straight away and were extremely helpfull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weldted Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 Thank you for your replies, Laser line phone lines are closed and cannot e mail them for some reason. I might add that the engineer who came to the house to install the alarm was extremely competent, a very neat job, all wiring clipped in and great care taken with the installation. I don’t think it is due to how it was installed more a possible fault in the unit. Wire from bonnet cut and insulated but alarm still goes off and led indicates bonnet alarm triggered. Main and leisure batteries fully charged, van hasn’t moved ion 6 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 weldted - 2020-04-28 10:58 AM ...Wire from bonnet cut and insulated but alarm still goes off and led indicates bonnet alarm triggered. Which way does your bonnet switch work? ie. is it Normally Open or Normally Closed? I assume by your comment it is a single wire which the switch connects to ground? You need to test the operation of the switch with a multi-meter and see which state it is when the bonnet is closed and then replicate this to test the alarm. If it is a N/O switch then the switch would be closed when the bonnet is shut and hence your insulated wire would signify an open bonnet. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weldted Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 I did state I have disconnected and insulated the wire from the bonnet switch. For info it is held open when the bonnet is closed and makes contact to earth when bonnet is opened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
747 Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 I have a Laserline alarm fitted and one of the fobs became faulty. I used the spare and bought a new one as the rubber had disintegrated on the old one. I went through the setting up procedure but it did not 'pair' with the alarm and I had to contact a Garage in Newcastle who fit and repair them. To cut a long story short they sorted me out but refused point blank to do any more work on the system (the motorhome garage door does not trigger the alarm when opened). The reason they gave was the shoddy installation by the Motorhome Dealer, they said that they had nothing but problems in the past and would only rip it all out and do a total refit. I decided to leave it as it is and to be fair, they only charged me £20 (cash) after 2 of them had spent time looking at it and scratching their heads. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weldted Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 Following advice from the engineer who installed it I have removed the batteries from the two garage doors and the system has not triggered in the last 24 hrs so hopefully one of them may be the cause. Again I stress the installation is one of the neatest most professional work I have seen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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