Two Go Mad Post Pandemic - The Trip Log Returns

[Robinhood]

 

The prologue.

Excuse the longer than normal introductory post It goes some way to explaining our somewhat different travels to those described in previous trip logs. 

As for many others, our travels around Europe have been very much curtailed of late, courtesy of Covid.

We've had plenty of use out of the 'van in the UK, post-lockdown. In fact, having our own facilities and flexibility of location has been a godsend, and for the intervening period before this year we've managed roughly the same number of nights away annually as we would normally, albeit constrained to our own country, rather than longer overseas trips.

This year started well with a few longer UK trips, but was always going to be overtaken by the current Mrs H's hip replacement operation, scheduled for the end of June (after, in the circumstances, a remarkably short wait on the list). Things didn't quite go to plan, however, as at the start of June I put my back out, ironically attempting to shift recalcitrant wheel-nuts on the 'van. After an initial 30 minutes or so of agony, things improved to the extent that I thought I'd got away with it....until, three days later I couldn't walk, having developed excruciatingly painful sciatica. A couple of weeks of strong painkillers and gradual return to exercise did, however, get me to a state where I was fit to be chief cook and bottle washer after SWMBO's operation.

This latter went surprisingly well; operated on one day, out the next, even capable of walking upstairs unaided but escorted. Unfortunately, the next day, second time up out of bed she passed out and face-planted on the landing. Lots of blood, a call to 111 and paramedics arriving (both excellent service) and a day in A&E being patched up (without me - being advised not to go). The net result was a deep cut on the chin, a few bruises, a hit to confidence (which luckily didn't last long) and luckily no damage to the new hip.

I was recovering slowly from my back problems, and some weeks in, when she could be left alone, I had a short evening spin out on my bike as respite from being general factotum. I enjoyed it so much, I did 15 miles the next evening, and set out the following to do the same....... and, eight miles out I came off my bike, hard and fast, on a gravel track wearing shorts and t-shirt. I had bruises on bruises, a knee and forearm that were just red "mush", and lumps out in various other places. It didn't improve my back much either! (though I did manage to ride back home six miles, pausing to consider asking the group of youths I passed who were surrounded by a pungent aroma whether they could give me a spliff; well, it might have helped!). I still have the scars to this day.

Despite all this, we still had our sights set on the continent at the beginning of September. An  enjoyable three night visit to a THS at Durham was a testbed, and by that time, despite a replacement hip 8 weeks earlier, she was managing 7 to 8 miles a day proper walking. The test demonstrated that we could both (just about) sleep in the 'van (no less comfortably than at home, at least) so all was good.

Then she tried her bike out. First trip fine, if a little halting. Two days later she asked me to get the bike out for a second go, disappeared on it, and returned sometime later having toppled over when stopping. By the next day her left arm, though not particularly painful was swollen to a point of concern. Off we went to the minor injuries clinic to have it declared broken!

Very early September was now an impossibility, but we finally agreed that, even with one broken arm and one "glass" back, the determination was there to  have our first Cntinental trip for three years. After all, what else could possibly go wrong? (We were only going to take one bike with us, though ;-)).

The continent in itself was an attractive thought, but the use of Stellplatze and aires, with their convenient locations and complete flexibility suited our (comparative with previous years) lack of mobility. The plan was to travel half a day at most, and spend the other half exploring the vicinity, with a decision on whether to stop longer dependent on the ambience, weather, mood, etc. We were also determined not to repeat many of our previous stopovers. 

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So, the outward tunnel was booked for midday-ish Saturday the 10th (cheap, courtesy of Mr Tesco and his points) and, feeling quite excited, and not particularly sorry for ourselves, we duly set off with even less of a plan where we were heading than usual.

Bergues 

Since the start of favouring the tunnel over the ferry for the short-sea crossing, we've tended to stay overnight close to Folkestone and catch an early train. To an extent this is driven by a view that Northern France isn't the most attractive area (we havefound some decent places, but it's far too flat for me) and we like to be well on our way South before our first stop.

This time, through a combination of circumstances, we decided to be different and leave home early morning, cross at midday, and take time to fuel (France being relatively cheap given subsidies) and shop for all those things that in theory you're no longer supposed to import, before overnighting near to the coast. 

Bergues has been regularly mentioned on here and elsewhere as a convenient first/last night stopover. It was an appropriate distance from the tunnel, had a large LeClerc and fuel station, and merited further investigation. To be honest, the aire looked less than inspiring, but the other considerations won us over (no, not the fact that it was free!), so, (very) early in the morning, we set off for the Tunnel and Bergues.

The journey South was easy (so much so we were getting well ahead of schedule, and we ended up making short stops at both South Mimms and Maidstone Services. Both of them posed problems with parking, the former having much of the "caravan" space occupied by refrigerated trailers (sans traction), and both having almost all other large-vehicle space occupied by Polish/Romanian/Hungarian (other nationalities are available) white-van man (to an extent that was remarkable).

We arrived at the Tunnel at the earliest reporting time, and were bumped up to a 30 minutes earlier crossing (which was nice). Off at the other end it was about an hour to Bergues, refuelling and revictualing successfully (though the LeClerc has height barriers on the most obvious of entrances, they can be circumvented - just read up on The Maginot Line).

A short jump on, and at mid-afternoon, the aire lived down to expectations. It is simply a large, red-shale car-park with no facilities other than (overflowing) waste bins - oh, and a bottle bank. It is, however, well-situated next to a sports-field and allotments, and just outside the (relatively complete) town walls, with walking access to the centre in a matter of minutes. Did I mention it's free?

And....we found it difficult not to like Bergues. It has enough of interest to pass a day. The centre is busy, and has cafés and restaurants; the walls can be traversed almost their full length, and the bell-tower and ruined abbey are impressive. We spent the remains of the afternoon exploring, and returned again in the evening. 

The aire was busy overnight. A French van squeezed in close next to us such that I had to be careful with the door against his open window (through which the sounds of dominoes being played exuberantly was prominent). Despite this, and the fact there was a rock/blues/jazz festival in the centre with two large outdoor stages, the evening went quiet from early on, and that continued through a peaceful night. 

Lest I should be misunderstood, I'll make it clear that Bergues proved an entirely acceptable "transit" stop. Ideal for an overnight before and after the ferry/tunnel, which we shall continue to consider, but not the sort of place we would choose for an extended stay. It did feel like a proper welcome back to the Continent, though!

More to follow as I catch up.

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Previously, I've posted pictures via links to an external site, which overcame the 100K limit, and allowed decent quality to be used. Whilst the new forum software does allow pictures by external link, it is a configurable option, and since my testing has not been successful, I believe it is turned off. Though the size limit is now no more, there is a limit on the aggregate size of attachments that can be added, and I'd prefer not to get near that. Accordingly, I'll post smaller "thumbnails" of any pictures, along with a link to an external, bigger and higher quality version for anyone who wants to look closer.

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[Derek Uzzell]

"Though the size limit is now no more, there is a limit on the aggregate size of attachments that can be added"

There is still a limit for attaching files to a posting, but it's pretty large (48.83MB compared to the 100KB maximum on the old forum) and should not unduly inhibit forum-members. 

As you've mentioned, a cumulative limit of 488.28MB for attachments applies to each forum-member, but I don't know what happens if that limit is reached.

[Robinhood]

It would appear that a couple of "enlargement" links posted above are broken (reason unknown).

Hopefully corrected here:

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[Robinhood]

Vireux-Molhain 

The Sunday morning dawned fine and warm, and the immediate weather forecast was for the same. As per the previous instalment, we do like to get a bit further South before slowing down, so, with a reasonably early start we were targeting a (longish) run down to the Meuse, just South of the Belgian border. The weather being as it was, that gave us an opportunity for an afternoon explore, and possibly a second day/night to enjoy the weather.

We've stopped over in that area before (there's something very attractive about being next to the water), but wanted to try somewhere new. In researching, I'd found an aire I hadn't spotted before, at Vireux-Molhain, right on the banks of the river. What detail I could get looked attractive (Streetview was too old and restricted to be informative, other than the conjecture that it was probably a closed municipal campsite that had been resurrected as an aire), so we set that as our objective. (Unless I'm certain of a target, I tend to have a fallback in the immediate vicinity, and we knew several other places that would suffice).

Given the proximity of Bergues, we took 20 minutes to visit the (a) Boulanger/Patissier in town for our lunch supplies, before setting off South.

It was a relatively easy journey of under 150 miles, with the exception of traversing Beaumont, which is "interesting" at the best of times, more so on this occasion since the centre was entirely plagued by roadworks, with very narrow access.

We hit the aire at Vireux-Molhain early afternoon, and it turned out to be an excellent choice. A well-maintained largely flat, grassy space adjacent to the river, quiet and tucked away, and not at all busy (A couple of Belgian 'vans, patently together, and two others as we arrived). The access is controlled by a card-operated barrier, which issues a ticket with a code for entry/exit/re-entry, and for one fill per day of water. Full services are next to the barrier, and there are ample distributed electric points, all included in the €10.22 per day charge. 

We got ourselves a pleasant, flat and part-shaded spot, had our lunch in the sun, and set off to explore the immediate vicinity. Whilst not the largest of towns (even with its twin on the other side of the river) there are sufficient "commerces", with an Intermarché within walking distance (rather fortuitously, as it has a height barrier). The Belgian party had been hard at the food and drink all the time we were there, and looked like they were in for a session. We had a good walking explore of the area, and returned to the 'van for an evening barbecue.

The Belgian party then started packing away - I doubt whether any of them were really fit to drive after what had been a "session", and then proceeded (after lengthy debate and manoeuvring) to exit via the barrier nose to tail, two in one pass. The conjecture was that they had entered in the same manner. Really....just to avoid €10.22 a night!?

After dinner, we had another wander, across the river in the late sun, and then passed a quiet night.

The next morning was (very) warm and sunny again, so we had an early stroll up to the Intermarché to restock, made a packed lunch, and set out for a viewpoint high up on the hill behind. Without maps we, comme d'habitude, initially failed to find the correct route, and ended up in a quarry behind where we wished to be. It meant we had a rather longer walk than we intended, but we recovered ourselves, reached the top (which had quite extensive views and interesting remains of a Roman camp), and stopped for lunch and the view before returning to the 'van.

Another barbecue (well, the surroundings invited it) and an evening walk saw the day off.

In terms of ambience, though we had better overall locations on our trip, this was probably the nicest of our stops. Once we're back to cycling again, the riverside (cycle) path, which extends the length of the Meuse, will probably draw us back for another visit.

With the weather forecast to change, off to Saarburg next!

 

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[colin]

What is it with women forgetting to put their feet down when stopping? Gf fell off her bike a couple of months back, whilst it seemed a minor tumble at time it's still causing problems, in fact maybe even more now.

[laimeduck]

Alfred E Neuman is looking forward to reading more about your travels. Keep it coming!

[Robinhood]

Saarburg

It rained overnight, and the forecast for the forseeable future for everywhere for miles around was "scheiße überall", as it was once described to me by a German campsite owner.

(TBH, the forecast remained much like this for the remainder of our three weeks; the reality on the ground was somewhat different. Don't always believe the forecasts, even if the Continental weather is rumoured to be more predictable than that for the UK).

The best rain-free prospect was over towards the Mosel, but, having rather "done it to death" over the years, (we consider it best done with bikes), and given our desire to visit new places, we settled instead on Saarburg, of which I'd read decent reviews. Though a little further at 120 miles than we'd have liked, the weather forecast, and the prospect of having somewhere of interest to look around if it was less than clement won us over. As it happened it was a reasonable choice.

We left Vireux-Molhain at 9:30, and  via Luxemburg arrived at the Stellplatz at Saarburg in time for a relaxed lunch. The Stellplatz isn't particularly photogenic (so no pictures, except from distance), but was fine for a visit to the town. 

https://www.reisemobilpark-saarburg.de/

Effectively divided into a main, screened, hardstanding portion and an overflow, open grass field it was busy-ish, but with ample space on both. (it having been wet, we eschewed the grass pitches). At €13.50 for the two of us, it wasn't over-expensive, though neither water nor electricity were included. There are toilets (free) and showers (chargeable) available. Water comes in 10c increments, and there are two service points at the entrance. Electricity is chargeable by the kWh, from pillars distributed around the site, so we did the customary inspection looking at the free points that stiil had some value left. (there's nothing like a free hook-up to make my day 😉 ) I'm never over-surprised when there is some small amount of residual power when the price is per kWh, but we quite often find best part of a day's value, sometimes more, even when priced by time - what's that about?). On this occasion I got a good few kWh that had been pre-paid and thus didn't spend much on electricity.

The town is a shortish easy walk away along the riverbank cycle path, and, though the sights are mainly contained in a compact area it is well worth the visit. By this time, the weather was dry and warm, but overcast, so we did all the sites in the afternoon, before, (but after a Bier stop), returning to the 'van for dinner. The centre is particularly attractive, due to the water features and the floral displays, and the castle, free to enter, provides a good vantage point from the tower.

We returned in the evening to walk the alleyways and see the water from vantage points with a few less people around, and then had a decent night, despite heavy rain and thunder.

The Stellplatz canjust  be seen in the middle distance in the panoramic picture, particularly if you click on the "enlargement" link. 

Next, off to Duppenweiler (of where it was said, "where?!")

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[Robinhood]

I note a few of the enlargement links above have "gorn off" again. They worked when posted, so I'm investigating.

Düppenweiler

.....No, me neither!

The weather forecast the previous night was still pretty dire, and, having so far had a couple of long drives (and weather rather better than expected) we fancied a shorter day; perhaps just one afternoon exploring somewhere quiet.

We often just research aires and Stellplätze at a selected distance, broadly in a desired direction, filter them somewhat from the description, and then go and let Serendipity take over. We've had some very enjoyable days from this - in fact we usually find something of interest, often entirely unexpected. (As already said however, regardless of any filtering, it pays to have a reserve destination).

The Stellplatz at Düppenweiler, whilst simple/basic passed the filtering so off we set (in weather rather better than forecast) for a drive of some 25 miles. The Stellplatz is just behind the town, close to the centre and on what I think doubles as a fairground-cum-festival place. Resembling a large concrete block car park, it had marked emplacements, electric points, and a service point. There was one 'van there when we arrived, but it was preparing to depart. The fees were €5 per night, and €1 for electricity (the other services were freely accessible).  

We had time to look around the rather unremarkable little town before lunch. (The most remarkable thing being that the Bäckerei was closed due to Covid. This was compounded by the fact that there was a portable, walk-in Covid testing station plonked down in the street - slightly concerning!). The shops are a very short walk from the Stellplatz, and  the small supermarket met all our shopping needs, so back to the 'van for lunch with the weather just about holding up.

Mrs H's research had indicated that there was an old copper mine up the valley from the town. Open for underground visits on certain days only, the surface works were nonetheless noted as generally open. In slowly improving weather, we decided that we could take that in via a walk out onto the hills.

We were guided by a rather odd "monument" not too far from the edge of town. I'm not sure that the surface workings were in fact open, being fenced and turnstiled, but as we stood looking, a man emerged from a nearby building in overalls and hard hat, went through the turnstile, and then turned and beckoned us in. He delighted in demonstrating the water-powered machinery, after warning us of the noise and donning ear-protectors. We were treated to, (very noisy as warned) "working" demonstrations of various bits of the plant, including the crusher and the smelting works, and then left to amble round the rest of the area ourselves. (My German is still somewhat "schoolboy", but I get by).

Rather ominously, the mine was also the host to yet another mobile covid testing station - far from the last we would see in Germany.

The copper mine was the jumping-off point for various local walks, with an information board on routes which we used in our usual manner, by taking a photo on the 'phone to guide our walks. The weather was still improving, so we had a pleasant circular walk up and down through the trees (hence no photos) and back to the 'van, where we had been joined for the night by two neighbours, and were able to have dinner outside, pausing to chat with the various dog-walkers who passed by. A middle-aged Frau came to collect the fees after 6pm. On pitches like this one often wonders whether it's an opportunistic local making a few bob, but we had a bit of conversation, she passed on commiserations about the Queen, and gave me a reasonably official-looking receipt slip - so I think it was legit 😉. The Stellplatz was otherwise quiet; we had a last walk round in the evening and passed a very peaceful night.

It had already struck us that Germany (possibly with the exception of the very centre of Saarburg) was rather quieter and more downbeat than France so far, something I'll revisit later as it was a continuing impression. 

So next, back to France and Harskirchen....

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[Robinhood]

Harskirchen

..when I previously described the night as peaceful, that is only if you ignored the thunderstorm 🙄.

With the weather forecast still "iffy" (and the weather on the ground rather less so), having enjoyed a short hop the previous leg we looked for something similar.

Of the options that presented, Harskirchen, 50 miles away and back in France looked the most inviting. I've already said we like being next to water, and this was another aire on a canal basin next to a small town. The descriptions and reviews whilst generally ok varied greatly both in the number of units it would take, and the cost (various prices from free to €10).  

Heading back into France had certain other advantages; due to the subsidies applied by the French Government, fuel was somewhat cheaper in France than Germany (at that time in the order of €1.62 vs €2.20 per litre of diesel). A not inconsiderable difference, and possibly one factor in our perception of the atmosphere in the two countries. As it happens, despite migrating back into Germany later in our travels, and traversing both Luxemburg and Belgium, all our fuel for this trip was bought in France, a major saving on doing so elsewhere.

It was a relatively quick run via Saarbrucken, with a quick stop off in Sarralbe for fuel and supplies. Harskirchen is a fairly typical French provincial village, not unpleasant of appearance but with little in the way of "commerces" - we were glad we'd re-provisioned.

The aire is a little out of the village, on the canal basin and ostensibly under the control of the Capitainerie at the Port de Plaisance (but this was shut during our time there). There is a non-too-flat surfaced car park which (some) reviews said would take 6 units. Good luck with that! - get 6 in and it would be too tight to get out. We pulled in and debated, noticing a makeshift sign limiting it to 3 camping-cars (which would still be tight, and still not flat). Adjacent, however, and behind a hedge, was a well-engineered service point, with gravel hardstanding next to it designated as space for a single unit, and completely flat. We repositioned ourselves to snaffle that - being next to the service point sounds less than ideal, but in fact we were spaced well enough away from it, and (despite later arrival of three other 'vans on the car park, positioned with much shuffling) it remained unused in our time there - so no disturbance.    

After a lunch break, we set off to explore, and noted a board describing a circular walk in and out of the town, and round the surrounding countryside. Phone photo taken, we set off to do it, and passed a pleasant afternoon of something under 5 miles, in ever-improving weather.

By the time we arrived back at the 'van, it was in warm sunshine, and attractive enough to barbecue and eat outside. Before we started, a car pulled up and two Monsieurs came over to collect the €10 fee. They collected from all 4 'vans, and once again I got an official-looking receipt slip, so it was probably legit.

And then, after dinner, one of the reasons we like being beside water. On a calm, warm evening with the sun slowly sinking, we had a lovely walk out on one side of the canal, over a lock and back on the other. A perfect end to the day (or at least, the bottle that followed was). Simple things!

The overnight was entirely peaceful, not even a passing thunderstorm.

It's interesting to reflect on the pricing of aires and Stellplätze and people's expectations as culled from reviews. The price quite often bears no relationship to the ambience or services provided (or included). Those reviews that had the price for this one at €10 were generally scathing of the cost, given services definitely weren't included (grey and black water disposal were free). It certainly wasn't the best value place we used, but it is what it is, and people should try touring the UK if they think €10 is expensive. It gave us an entirely acceptable and quiet stay for something under £9 - complain? I think not.

We'd had an enjoyable day, but didn't see anything else exciting to detain us, so next on to one of two repeated (i.e. we've been there before) locations on this trip - Walscheid.  

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[witzend]

Great thread sorry to hear of your problems leading up to it but hope alls well from here on keep up the pic's

[Thai Bry]

I always look forwards to your tours and tales.

Also ideas for little towns and stellplatzes.

[Robinhood]

Walscheid

We'd previously visited Walscheid almost exactly 4 years before, and with the exception of (..well, I'll come to that later..😉) enjoyed it, and liked the aire and surroundings a lot. The morning was cloudy and mildly damp, and we didn't really fancy going very far, so at around 25 miles, Walscheid got a thumbs-up from both of us.

The village is up a fairly remote valley, has few "commerces" (a Boulangerie/Patisserie, and a café) so you need to be stocked up before you go. The aire is about half a mile beyond, in a grand setting in a natural bowl with a lake. The aire itself has 6 level tarmaced and terraced emplacements (the lower one is usually blocked off to provide access to the lakeside), but the adjacent car-park (unfortunately somewhat sloping) in which the services are located is regularly used for overflow. Don't take that to mean it gets busy - I suspect one would never fail to find a well-spaced slot, albeit you might need levelling blocks.

Pricing arrangements are confusing. It is widely "advertised" as free, but though grey and waste disposal are possible free of charge, fresh water requires a jeton, available for €5 from the Boulangerie in the village, and the general waste bin has a combination lock! (The bottle-bank is free, though). €5 seems a bit over the top just for water, so I wonder whether the expectation is that you'll pay €5 per night, and get a free jeton for that. The notices on the air don't really throw any further light on the question. (Whatever, I suppose if you're staying long enough to require fresh water top-up, then a single €5 payment is hardly extortionate). No electricity here, for those who might desire it.

There was a large 'van on the terraces when we arrived, and at least one other on the car park. Several more were to arrive before nightfall.

Apart from the attractive location (and did I mention that it was free?) the main draw for us here is that it has a network of waymarked paths setting off directly from the aire. I did allude above to an exception to our enjoyment; it was rather tongue-in-cheek but last time here we set off on a waymarked path (there are around 10 highlighted, of varying lengths and all marked en route by plaques with a number) and were very impressed by the system......until.... the waymarks ran out (or, more likely, we missed one at a crucial point🙄). Not having a map (though a Phone picture was available) it had taken us some time to find our way back, as much of the walking is forested. The walk had been fine, but it hadn't been quite what we intended.

This time, after a damp start and a light lunch, the weather improved somewhat so we decided on another walk (carefully avoiding the same number as last time) and set out on number 9 (again complete with a 'phone picture of the route). Well.....you guessed it! All went well for some time until we realised that once again we'd lost the waymarks! We came to the conclusion that the map was rather less than accurate (an impression compounded by later review) and we were rather sure of where we must have gone wrong, but we were also entirely sure that there was no waymark up the branch we hadn't taken. Hey ho - we wandered relatively aimlessly (but enjoyably) for some time on the forest tracks, every now and then getting a rather splendid view. The picture is of the "Rocher de Dabo" in the distance. I think that merits a visit if/when we're back in the area. We eventually hit another set of waymarks (after doubling back on ourselves, and worked our way back to the aire after about 8 miles of walking. It was clear that the current Mrs H's walking was getting back to normal.

It was again warm, and just about dry, so dinner was cooked outside (but eaten in). We had a late evening walk around the lake, and the usual quiet night.

The weather forecast had resolutely remained somewhat dismal, and we fancied a change from "small town France". We'd driven around Colmar before, but never stopped and visited, so that was on the itinerary for tomorrow.

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[Robinhood]

Colmar

When a town or village has gone to the trouble of providing a stopover, particularly if it is free or cheap, we like to put something back into the local economy by, for example, shopping, eating or drinking. In the case of Walscheid, there isn't much opportunity but last time we made sure we used the Boulangerie/Patisserie. This time, due to lack of parking, we weren't able to stop nearby, so we reluctantly headed on out. The most direct route is out to the South, but the immediate roads looked somewhat "interesting", so we looped out North and East for an easier run, and at 70 miles the distance was very little different.

Time to replenish stocks again, so a quick call into a LeClerc at Sarre Union, and then on our way South. It was noticeable that diesel prices were generally quite a bit cheaper away from the supermarkets, particularly, but not restricted to, the price at Total stations.

I have refillable gas bottles, and though we'd been off-grid a bit, we weren't exactly short of gas. I do like to keep reasonably topped-up, however, and seeing an attractive price we called in at the services on the A35 North of Colmar to do so. The entrance for "wide" vehicles was more than a little challenging (I subsequently watched a good few motorhomes being confused by a width constraint that was barely enough for a decent-sized car), and we did a tortuous circuit of the services before parking up and checking out the LPG pump. The (self-serve) pump area was in a one-way system, and though the LPG pump was a double-sided affair, the side for my LH filling point was coned off. With no way of reaching round from the outlet on the clear side, I decided I wouldn't waste the stop, be very French, and U-turn round to the other side and then back again. Luckily, there was plenty of turning space at either end, and I filled up at the mid-60c/litre point. (and isn't the French dish connector rather better than the UK bayonet? I was rather expecting an irate message from the pump speaker, though!).

Suitably re-gassed, we headed straight for the Colmar aire, located in a rather industrial area, again adjacent to the Port de Plaisance. The aire had obviously just had a lot of "fettling", even recent photographs and Streetview showing something very much more basic.

Entry was via card-accepting barrier. There was a problem when we arrived in that no printed receipt was being issued (I followed someone who also had the problem). Once we were in and pitched, it occurred to me that I might need something to get out - sure enough, a code from one's receipt! Luckily, somewhat later I managed to buttonhole a Mademoiselle who came to check the barriers, and she reprinted the code for me. The aire is medium sized (around 50 pitches) with demarcated flat gravel hardstandings. It cost us €16.44 per night which included only grey water disposal. Electricity was relatively expensive (I can't remember how much, but it was by (4hr?) time segments, and might even have been as much as another €10 for 24 hours). I'm not particularly averse to paying for current, but being full of gas (stop tittering at the back!) it was expensive enough to deter me. Given the base price, even fresh water and black water disposal seemed a bit over the top (at ISTR €2.50 each), but for a one-night stop the latter wasn't required, and the former was resolved when I noted a nearby tap was "free". (Black water disposal was via a lockable cabinet containing a sump and rinsing point, and it had obviously become "the done thing" not to lock this after use).

As city aires go, whilst fairly soulless it's about as good as you're going to get, and well worth using if Colmar is a target.

After a quick lunch at the 'van, we set off to walk to the centre on a warm afternoon with a mix of sun and cloud. It's not the shortest of walks, but quite easy, and the centre is well worth the visit. We're not the greatest fans of crowded areas (even at the best of times, and it probably seems even more claustrophobic post the general pandemic practice of deliberately avoiding them) but we enjoyed our wander round both the main streets and the more off-piste areas. Colmar has an eclectic mix of architecture and an enjoyable set of back alleys to dive down. The most attractive part is probably that by the water at "Little Venice", and our stroll there was interrupted by a typically French demo march. There were almost as many police in attendance as demonstrators, and though there seemed to be a main theme, it also seemed to have attracted people protesting about anything and everything (Macron's policies thru to next door's cat.... you get the picture) - certainly not as focussed as it was noisy! 

Having tired ourselves on the hard pavements, we returned to the 'van for an early dinner. The aire was filling rapidly. Having only seen one Brit in the previous week, there were two here, but the majority of the occupants were German. This latter rather continued in our time in France, and I suspect contributed to our "subdued atmosphere" view of Germany. I'm sure costs would have had something to do with it. Being not far from the border over which it was maybe £45 cheaper to fill a motorhome fuel tank, where would you head?

After lunch, as it was still fine, we decided to revisit the centre where the now much thinner population made it a far more enjoyable experience. Having done the trip twice, we were well and truly knac.... tired when we returned to the (now full) aire. 

A quiet night ensued, after we'd researched the morrow over a bottle and decided to go into even more (for us) uncharted territory. Off to the Doubs and Baume les Dames.

   

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[Robinhood]

Baume les Dames

What little "planning" we'd done before this trip simply involved a bit of a feeling we'd like to take in lesser-known (for us) parts of the Black Forest. If we wanted to to do that, at some point we were going to have to turn East, but we were quite enjoying France, the area out to the West of Colmar was a closed book to us, and whilst The Jura attracted somewhat, it was rather too far (and probably rather late in the season).

Researching aires, one leapt out at us; that at Baume les Dames. It was by water, well reviewed, big enough to be reasonably confident of a space, and the area looked to be interesting. It was a bit of a drive, but still only 80 miles, and we had the prospect of two nights, so we decided that was it and went in the diametrically opposite direction from the Schwarzwald.

It was Sunday, and we needed some perishables. Mr Google indicated that a number of the Colmar supermarkets were open on Sunday morning. Mr Google was wrong! Further en route, however, we managed to pull into a small town with a "Carrefour Local" which, though limited in choice, was at least open, so we managed to get the day's provisions.

We arrived at Baume les Dames shortly after midday, via the Autoroute and largely following the Doubs valley. The aire was slightly out of town, adjacent to the river/canal, and pleasantly situated (the "industrial" unit behind being the canal maintenance depot, and quiet, even the next day). With marked spaces for around 30 'vans, the emplacements were quite varied in size, levelness, spacing and solidity of ground. With it being around half-full on arrival, we managed to get one of the better ones, in all of those respects.

The cost was €11.90 per night, to be paid after 6pm at the little on-site office, for everything including electricity (there were also on-site toilets and showers, the latter, I think, extra). Credit card was accepted for payment - though there was a look of mild surprise when I asked to pay for two nights (If you're confident of staying it avoids having to be around at a set time the following evening). The services were in a little dedicated island area at the centre of the aire.

If it weren't for experiences yet to come (you'll have to wait!), Baume might well have been the best stopover of the holiday (not necessarily the best aire ambience, but an overall combination of aire, location and surroundings). If we'd been using bikes, the excellent looking cycling both ways along the river might have clinched it! (The scenery was very reminiscent of that of the Upper Danube in Germany, where the cycling had also been magnificent).

We had lunch, and then wandered off into town, the old part of which made a very attractive afternoon's stroll in the sun. We returned to the aire from the far end of the town, via parkland and the riverside paths. Just about everything you might need was in the town, and the nearest large supermarket was only a short walk from the aire. The adjacent canalside Restaurant/Bar also looked OK, but the opening times seemed somewhat erratic.

It was still sunny and warm enough to cook and eat dinner outside, which we did, and then had a round walk along the canal and river before a quiet night.

Next morning was sunny but cooler, so we walked to the supermarket to shop, then set off West down the river to see how far we could get (return would have to be back the same way). We walked 4 miles down the river to Fourbanne, before turning back. It had a little car park next to the river and lock, which is designated as an aire. Nothing much in the tiny village, but the car park has a shelter/toilet/water area, and it would make a pleasant place for an evening's stopover. We ate our packed lunch there. We spotted kingfishers on the way back.

Then, back to the 'van for the remainder of the afternoon sat out on the grass reading. Dinner outside again, followed by another evening stroll on the waterside. There was a slight evening diversion when a couple of cyclists pitched tents on the grass in front of the office. There was a heated debate when the guardien told them in no uncertain terms to "go away" - ultimately, as they were still there when we returned from our walk, I suspect he was unsuccessful in moving them; whatever, I don't think they were up for paying a pitch fee.

If we were to pull in a bit of the Black Forest, we really did need to turn round now, so tomorrow back towards the German border, with a small aire at Montreux-Chateaux being the potential target.

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[Robinhood]

Montreux-Château

We'd considered continuing West down the Doubs, but decided this was probably the appropriate time to turn round.  The next obvious stop if we hadn't was Besançon, which looked worth a visit, but we didn't particularly want another big town yet (if at all on this trip). We'd also rather decided that the Doubs was worth a better session, on a future visit, preferably when cycling was back on the agenda. Accordingly, we let our desire for the Black Forest win out.

Suitably watered and dumped, we left for Montreux-Château, some 45 miles away East, pausing at the Supermarket on the way out to re-victual. It was very noticeable on departure that the (full) aire was occupied mainly by German 'vans. 

The target aire at Montreux-Château was at an appropriate distance, passed the "filter test" and was, once again, alongside a canal. We were taking a bit of a chance, though, as it was well reviewed but small (6, maybe 7 hardstanding places). When we arrived, only one spot was free (and it was the one I would have chosen if we'd had free choice, regardless of it not being level and needing blocks), though someone was leaving. Payment was by credit card at a less-than-obvious "hole-in-the-wall" terminal at the cultural centre on the other side of the road. €5 gave access to everything except black water disposal (and even then, it was only the rinsing water that was chargeable). Electricity was included, and there is a shelter with picnic tables, water, and (acceptable but not swish) toilets freely available (also providing services to the long distance cycle-path along the canal). An immediately adjacent small picnic site provided outdoor seating and tables. The grey and black water disposal were outside the barrier on a dedicated space.

The card terminal should (at least at one time) have issued a ticket with a code - but it resolutely failed to, which was a bit concerning. On attempted access, however, it was apparent that, though the keyboard and pillar for the automated barrier still existed, the barrier itself had been removed and the whole replaced by a manually-operated counterbalanced wooden pole, inches behind the original. As I attempted to raise the pole, a crowd gathered on the aire to watch! Whoever had designed the thing had got the calculations rather wrong. Though counterbalanced, the pole was a bu.... very difficult to lift (and equally difficult to drop). Operation of it was obviously the main source of entertainment for the aire.

The weather being pleasant, we set ourselves up and dawdled somewhat over lunch "al fresco". Adjacent to the aire was a noticeboard setting out a number of circular walks; those along the canal looked most interesting, but were rather longer than time was going to permit, so we chose a shorter one around a couple of local villages, modified it slightly, and enjoyed a pleasant if unremarkable ramble around the area. It took us through the nearby village, which had sufficient to provide for most basic needs, including a reasonable supermarket at its nearest (and walkable) point to the aire.

Due to the late start, dinner was a little later than usual, though we still managed a short out-and-back afterwards along the canal before dark. By this time, there had been a bit of a turnover in occupants, but all spaces were full (all bar ourselves German), and at least two further 'vans had set up in the car park of the cultural centre across the road (which was certainly entire acceptable as a fall-back, being spacious, quiet and level).

It had provided a very good one-day stop, fairly typical of the pleasant places we find, but it wasn't "exciting" enough to pass more time (rather flat land, but again, bikes might have changed that), and we set our sights on the Western fringes of the Black Forest. So, next, on to Germany and Todtnau (or not!) 
 

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[laimeduck]

Ahhh I will be interested to read your comments about Todtnau - have stayed there x 2, the last time this July. Did you do it?

[Robinhood]

3 hours ago, laimeduck said:

Ahhh I will be interested to read your comments about Todtnau - have stayed there x 2, the last time this July. Did you do it?

Patience, young Grasshopper....😉

[laimeduck]

Tee hee.....!

 

[Robinhood]

Todtnau Altglashütten

Whilst we do, of course, have the onboard fresh and grey water tanks almost all motorhomes have we rarely use either hose or drive-over facilities to fill and empty. 20 litres of water a day (via 2 x 10 litre carriers) is generally sufficient for our consumption (with the odd extra intermediate top-up) and an old, shallow 10 litre Fiamma grey water container just fits under the outlet and takes care of the waste. (This assumes the washing-up bowl is disposed of without going down the sink - a move that reduces waste tank smells). That includes a shower each every night. It takes little time out of the day to carry out that "housekeeping" and has the added advantage of almost never having to get into a queue to use the services. (even on this trip, the large German "lorry" conversion adjacent monopolised the service point at Baume les Dames for almost an hour - he wasn't popular!) As a corollary, it also ensures that, where rinsing water for the toilet cassette isn't readily available, the grey-water from the container can easily substitute. That's what happened leaving Montreux-Château.

Todtnau, around 65 miles away, was the nearest Stellplatz in the Black Forest that, after online research, passed our "filter test". Pictures/info indicated it was well-serviced, flat and within easy walking distance of the town, which looked like it might be attractive. We set off on a route via the outskirts of Basel, stopping on the way at Dannemarie for supplies, and to fill the tank with cheap (all things are relative!) French diesel (French wine is also cheaper - guess what also was refilled!). It was sunny with a cold start, warming somewhat as we travelled (and thus still defying the weather forecast).

It was still morning when we reached the Stellplatz at Todtnau, and, though it looked much like the pictures we'd seen, "Location, Location, Location" matters. It was mildly claustrophobic, being surrounded by mature trees, but the main issue was that it was immediately adjacent to the main road, which at that point was on a steep incline, and intrusively noisy. There was a suspicion the noise levels would prevail for much of the day and night.

It didn't take us long to decide it wasn't for us (and accordingly it being essentially on the outskirts we never did find out whether Todtnau itself was attractive, Jeremy). There was no-one else there, so maybe that first impression was common to others. 

It did, however do us a favour. I've mentioned before that we generally try to have a fallback. This time it was to a Stellplatz that didn't have much detail online, and was variously described as being at Feldberg or Altglashütten, locations some 5 miles apart! Todtnau is in a valley, and at not much over 2,000 ft; Altglashütten however is over 1,000ft higher, and almost out on the top, so there was a bit of climbing to do. Follow the main road to Titisee, through Feldberg and turn right at the Lidl (in the middle of nowhere, and the nearest shopping to the Stellplatz) and Altglashütten is just over 2 miles further on.

By description (and maybe also at first glance) the Stellplatz might not seem as attractive as it actually is. It is on the chained-off (Wohnmobil only) far end of the station carpark, running parallel to the railway, with 16 numbered spaces on gravel hardstanding. There is effectively a parking charge, a minimum of 12 hours is payable at €5, and then it is in oddly split segments of less than 12 hours. It means 24 hours costs you €10, but you can get away with less than €20 for two nights, dependent on arrival and departure time and when you pay. Electricity is available from a number of points (I think it was €1 per 8 hours), and water and rinsing water for the cassette are also chargeable (can't remember how much, but certainly not extortionate). Disposal was free. The services were at the end of the area, well away from the pitches, modern, clean and payable through a coin-accepting terminal (which also issues the parking tickets, by chosen space number).

There were two 'vans there when we arrived (quiet Germany again!). The railway being adjacent might seem a bit daunting, but the trains are passenger-only, modern and electric, and with the station requiring a stop they always pass slowly (so much so that it was entirely non-disturbing). They also don't run between 21:30 and 06:00 (approx). Whilst it isn't obvious from the photos, the non-railway direction of the Stellplatz gave an open view falling away into the valley.

Part of the adjacent station is an Italian Restaurant and bar. Well within staggering distance but not within disturbing distance. The area overall is very quiet, though a good few walkers and cyclists passed during the day. Altglashütten itself is an old, quite attractive little village, with the odd additional Hotel/Restaurant, a Bäckerei, a filling station, Tourist Info and not much else. 

Undoubtedly our impressions were affected by 2 largely cloudless days, but the setting, both overall and of the Stellplatz, was superb. It's just the kind of place we like. The main attraction at this visit was easy access to walking in all directions, but judging by the number of bikes we saw, the cycling was good as well. 

We had our lunch, and set out for the nearby lake (Windgfällweiher) along a path from the end of the Stellplatz parallel to the railway. It rather deteriorated towards the end, but we fought our way through (a machete wouldn't have gone amiss) and thus thought we'd earnt our Bier at the Gasthof overlooking the lake. After a round of the lake, we returned via a rather better path on the other side of the railway, up into the higher village before dropping down to the 'van for a sit outside in the sun and dinner. It was still absolutely unbroken blue sky, though the sun was heading down. I hadn't bothered with the hook-up, but I decided it might not be a bad idea, so I connected and paid. After dinner we wandered round the village for a while, before returning to the van for the usual evening libations. Standing outside later, it was real "dark skies" country, with stars wall-to-wall. I set the heating on electric and low before we went to bed!

Given the altitude and the clear skies, it wasn't entirely surprising to awake to a hard frost the next morning. Once a bit of mist had cleared, it was blue skies again, so not a thought of moving on and after breakfast we walked into the village to the Bäckerei, made a packed lunch and set off to explore more of the countryside. We headed off again to the same lake (over the easier path) then headed North, hills and trees, in the direction of the Falkaur waterfall. The latter wasn't as impressive as it might have been, and the circular walk we were taking had suffered issues, so we had to retrace some of our steps. Nonetheless, it was warm and sunny, and it was an enjoyable 7 miles or so.     

After dinner we had another late walk up into the village. the heating was set low again for the night.

We'd had a number of nice places to stop on this trip, and more to come, but overall, this was the place that I liked best. No individual thing was the best, but everything taken as a whole made it very enjoyable. We might well return. On proof of payment of the Parking fee/Tourist Tax, the Tourist Office will issue a Konus Card giving free public transport throughout the Black Forest area. Given the half-hourly trains and the proximity of the station, Titisee (and beyond) in one direction, and Schluchsee in the other are easy to visit. The altitude and openness of the Stellplatz would probably require careful checking of the weather, though.

And....though it was still reasonable weather, no time to dawdle further on our travels, and on we went the next day to Vöhrenbach, some 22 miles away.

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[laimeduck]

AAhhh Robin!

I thought you were going on the Rodelbahn at Todtnau! One of the longest Rodelbahn in Europe up the Hasenhorn then 2.9 Km down about 7 minutes at full pelt! ..... https://www.hasenhorn-rodelbahn.de/en/

It's well worth the €9.50 price tag for the views from the top, then the white knuckle ride down. We've done it twice now.....!

The Stellplatz is fine - we didn't have traffic noise overnight that I recall? ..... and the town is good ... a few Gasthofs and Restaurants a Bakerei and a Penny supermarket. A very pleasant little stopover.

Jeremy

[Robinhood]

22 minutes ago, laimeduck said:

I thought you were going on the Rodelbahn at Todtnau!

Oddly enough, SWMBO is usually up for a good Rodelbahn - not a good idea with an arm in a cast, though. 🙄

[Robinhood]

Vöhrenbach

Almost two-thirds through our holiday, it was definitely time to start thinking of the route back. We woke to yet another bright and frosty start, so we thought it would be sensible to do a short hop, and get an afternoon's activity in decent weather.

It should be fairly obvious by now that despite our "misfortunes" prior to the holiday (which hadn't really left us downhearted) things were working out OK. We were missing out on the cycling we normally enjoy. My bike had been loaded in case the current Mrs H decided she'd had enough walking, wanted a day off, and I could get a ride instead. That hadn't happened; she was walking well, with the arm in a cast having rather more of an effect than the hip-replacement. All was (pretty) good.

The short hop to Vöhrenbach left us plenty of time to call in at a supermarket in Titisee-Neustadt, and instead of a fallback destination this time, we had a fallforward. There was a Stellplatz on the way, high up at Eisenbach, which looked like it might at least merit a check. My satnav had the location correct, but tried to get us there via a most impractical route. Once we'd sorted that out, we arrived, had a quick look, and decided to move on. On other occasions it might be acceptable, certainly the terrain and surroundings were fine (magnificent view if one found the gaps in the trees). It looked very much like a medium-sized party had taken it over, maybe 7 or 8 vans, with about 5 times as many dogs as people, all running free. Vöhrenbach it was then!

The short journey wasn't without excitement, however. We got as far as the lower part of Eisenbach on the main road, when we suddenly found ourselves in major construction works, with no exit. The dump truck drivers were less than impressed (it would appear that German "hand signals" are much like British ones) and I had to reverse out gingerly and three point turn. We retraced our steps back up close the Stellplatz we'd just checked out, and took the side turning off just there, hoping it was the/a diversion. There were no "Umleitung" signs at all (and we hadn't seen any on our way in). The only explanation we could think of is that, in checking the Stellplatz out, we'd missed a chunk of the main road (maybe 200m) and that could have had the diversion signposted. (Even checking on Streetview now that doesn't look likely). Anyway, whether it was or wasn't the correct diversion, it eventually got us round the obstruction.

The Stellplatz at Vöhrenbach is on the edge of the largely unremarkable little town, tucked away in a pleasant little park near sports facilities. The satnav threw another wobbly (on routeing, not location - the issue was a 2 tonne bridge-weight limit) so we had to retrace our steps a bit before finding it. No facilities at all here, but it's free, and we were fully watered and dumped from Altglashütten anyway.

We lunched at the 'van, and as we'd intended with the short hop, used the fine afternoon for a short, but relatively strenuous walk up to the Kandelblickhütte, a name which rather implies you get a view of Kandel, one of the local high-points. Well.....you don't! (but it made for a pleasant afternoon anyway with a steep climb and an easier descent, so nothing much lost).

We were joined in the evening by another 'van, and had a short walk off down the valley into town and back.

We'd defied the weather forecast for some time, but tomorrow was when our luck was to run out (though not badly) and we needed to be seriously positioning for our journey back. 

We were scratching around a bit for a decent stopover, but finally decided on Zell am Harmersbach, less than 35 miles away, but well positioned journeywise for our onward travels.

...and, just as an aside, we discovered a couple of days ago, as SWMBO was perusing an old diary, that we've been to Vöhrenbach before. Apparently we cycled there whilst staying on the Stellplatz at Unterkirnach (of which more in the next instalment. It seemed pretty unlikely, and neither of us can remember it, but the description of the day and the (off-road) route is more than convincing. It's age, you know... (at least with her 😉)

 

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[Thai Bry]

Hi Robin

Did'nt know that you'd changed your van.

Anyway, always enjoy your trip blogs, given us a few ideas for next year.

Keep the blogs coming.

[Robinhood]

39 minutes ago, Thai Bry said:

Didn't know that you'd changed your van.

Only 4 and a half years ago 😉

We miss some of the aspects of the previous PVC we downsized to, but this 'van is the same length when you add that of the bike-rack to the PVC, has the bikes clean, dry and secure in the garage, has more internal space (due to the length all being available internally as well), and has better on-board facilities which, now we've almost entirely migrated to aires/Stellplätze (and why wouldn't you when you can get flexibility and locations like those above?) is quite important to us.   

[Thai Bry]

8 hours ago, Robinhood said:

Only 4 and a half years ago 😉

We miss some of the aspects of the previous PVC we downsized to, but this 'van is the same length when you add that of the bike-rack to the PVC, has the bikes clean, dry and secure in the garage, has more internal space (due to the length all being available internally as well), and has better on-board facilities which, now we've almost entirely migrated to aires/Stellplätze (and why wouldn't you when you can get flexibility and locations like those above?) is quite important to us.   

I must have missed something along the way re your current van.

I'm in a bit of a quandary myself. Nov next year is when I have to decide to either keep my over 3.5 tonne licence or down size. We were looking at PVC's but your van has given me some more ideas. Mrs Thai does not drive, and we have enjoyed every moment of our large Hymer S700G. Our planned long tour of southern Germany next year will make my mind up. Like yourselves we now only use Stellplatzes.

We also went to Titesee stellplatz a few years ago, and swiftly moved on. The place has become too touristy for our liking nowadays.

Keep the blogs coming.