Robinhood Posted November 4, 2022 Author Share Posted November 4, 2022 Zell am Harmersbach As noted above, this was the morning our luck with the weather ran out. It was raining! Whilst our intention was to head for Zell, where it was reputed there were full services, one never knows, and our fallback for the day was to another nearby Stellplatz where the services were noted as being currently inaccessible. Having no services at the current pitch, as we could route via Unterkirnach, we did so. We've used the Stellplatz there several times in the past (it's a cracker), and knew that the service point was easily accessible. Dumped, watered and the honesty box fed (they ask for a couple of euros for "passing trade") we headed to Zell. There was one of those odd coincidences as we entered the town. The road sign denoted that it was twinned with Baume les Dames in France (that we'd visited earlier in our trip). The Stellplatz is on the edge of town, a dedicated "grasscrete" and gravel stretch at the far end of the car park for the local sports centre. The service point was a short drive away next to the adjacent sports hall. Payment was via "parking machine" which resolutely failed to recognise any of my cards, but took "espèces" anyway. €13 per night, including Tourist Tax. Electricity was available from various outlets, chargeable by the kWh (I can't remember how muc it wash, but we didn't hook-up which might be a clue!) There were a few other 'vans there when we arrived; most of them departed during the day but were replaced by a similar number. Whilst the description doesn't sound exciting, it was a rather nicer place to pitch up than it sounds, but the sparse occupancy reinfoced our view of the quietness of Germany. In improving weather, we had lunch and then set off into the town. It had a decent write-up in online reviews, and proved to be a reasonable place to pass an increasingly sunny afternoon. There was a good variety of shops, cafés and bars around the centre, but the back streets, followed via a waymarked (let into the pavement) street walking tour revealed the best of the architecture, and a number of amusing fountains. Several of the taller buildings were adorned with the traditional stork nesting platforms. We passed a decent couple of hours, and as the sun was now well out, returned to the 'van for a sit and read before dinner. Later that evening we wandered back into town from the bottom of the Stellplatz, more via the countryside than road, before returning in drizzle for a quiet night. Plans were incomplete for the next morning, and when it dawned very overcast we were in a bit of a dilemma. We decided, however, to stay and wander up the valley. The next village of any size is Nordrach, and this is where our fallback Stellplatz had been. There were current warnings on the village website that the parking was available, but that the services were unreachable due to various works around where they were situated. We thought we'd use it as a target and go and look. The day wasn't great, but it was better than it might have been given the early weather, and we had a decent walk (mainly off-road) as far as Nordrach. The Stellplatz was indeed in use, tucked away off the main road, but not entirely flat, and the spaces were rather tight. The village itself (indeed much of the valley) seemed to contain mainly "Kliniken", something quite common in Germany. Given that the majority of cars parked in the village were Ukranian-registered, I suspect a good prooprtion were being used as refugee accommodation. (Though one building looked like The Adams Family might live there 🙂). We varied the route slightly going back (but had to stop again at the fountain of questionable taste) and in increasing cloud just made the 'van before it rained. After dinner we just had a short walk around the adjacent woods, before settling down for another quiet evening. And tomorrow, for reasons that are now debatable, it was off to Landau (in der Pfalz), though this did lead to a, for us, Stellplatz "first". Click for enlarged picture Click for enlarged picture Click for enlarged picture Click for enlarged picture Click for enlarged picture Click for enlarged picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted November 4, 2022 Author Share Posted November 4, 2022 Landau (in der Pfalz) Why Landau? you might well ask (and if you didn't, I've asked for you). We've stayed a couple of times in the past on a Stellplatz in a vineyard in the Pfalz. The location and the welcome make it one of our favourites, though I'd have to kill you if I told you where. (Actually, I think I might have divulged it in a previous trip report🙄). We've walked and cycled from there, and at one evening "tasting", the owner asked us where we'd been on our bikes, and on being told Neustadt and der Weinstrasse, he confided that Landau was better. Given that we'd thought Neustadt was alright, we'd resolved to try Landau at a later visit, but the lack of cycling on this trip meant it wouldn't be from that favourite Stellplatz. I did look at the details of the Stellplatz at Neustadt in passing, but it didn't get past the filters, whereas that at Landau, adjacent to the local swimming pool/water park looked "unexciting" but adequate for a town visit. 80 miles away, almost due North, it was also convenient for our return journey. We left Zell in sunshine via the service point next to the sports centre, and it had clouded somewhat by the time we reached Landau. The Stellplatz is in the suburbs, in the (lesser-used of 2) car park of the swimming pool. The car park is large, little-used (since the main car park is more convenient for the pool) and has 6 separated dedicated emplacements for 'vans. (The entrance has a sign that implies that all 'vans not using these should report to the pool reception - presumably for (reduced?) payment). Each dedicated space has its own power supply. ...and here is the "first", at least for us. Payment was by smartphone! Point your camera at a QR code on the electricity post for your chosen pitch, click on the resulting link, pay using your card, and abracadabra, the electricity immediately switches on, and the lighting on the post changes to indicate it is occupied! The cost was €10 (24 hours) including electricity. The (chargeable) grey/black disposal and fresh water were outside on the road, adjacent to the rear corner and staff entrance of the pool. Good luck with that, though, as the staff seemed to delight in parking such that it was completely inaccessible to vehicles (the waste container came in handy again!). The booking system isn't foolproof, though. The 'van pictured in the middle had been parked in the end bay, but noticed that there was unused electricity available, so moved soon after we arrived. Patently he didn't need to do that if he had paid for a space, since electricity was included. I'm not averse to using up unused paid-for energy myself, but not if it is dedicated to a position and means depriving someone of a space. He departed later in the day (after the power had gone off) to be replaced by another 'van who also, from the indicator lights, patently didn't pay for the space (but didn't hook-up either). I find such behaviour fairly inexcusable, not least since there was at least one other 'van that circled the spaces, decided not to pay, and parked up in the general car park (I'm not sure that this shouldn't have been chargeable either, but at least it didn't deprive a potential user of the hook-up). It was possible to walk into the town off-road (at least as far as the Hauptbahnhof) starting via the path at the rear of the Stellplatz. Not the shortest of walks, but easy. We spent the afternoon visiting the centre which, frankly, wasn't over-exciting. There were a couple of interesting bits of architecture, and the main square (Rathausplatz) was very quiet, again reinforcing our views of a subdued Germany. (though, TBH, it may just be a bit too far from the shopping streets, as most pictures I can find of it aren't over-populated) We were also back in the land of mobile, and not-so-mobile walk-in Covid testing (a good number of them). We headed back to the 'van for dinner in light rain, and then had an evening walk out into the countryside in the opposite direction. If we go and stay with our winemaking "friends" again, we are going to have to tell them we beg to differ on Landau! But at least we know that now. (Incidentally, in checking the locations on Google today, I note that the photos on the Google Maps link for the Stellplatz were taken by someone who was there at the same time as us (The VW PVC), though they must have stayed longer, as they arrived after us and only one of thee pictures has a glimpse of our 'van). Being somewhat underwhelmed by Landau, time to move on, and there was much research before we decided on Stenay, back in France again. Click for enlarged picture Click for enlarged picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted November 5, 2022 Author Share Posted November 5, 2022 Stenay Still a good way short of The Channel, and with days running out, we needed to do some rather longer journeys. We prefer not to have too swift a journey back, as it tends to take the edge of the enjoyable memories. We'd already pencilled in Bergues again for the last night (with an early afternoon crossing, it just worked nicely), so we were really looking for a one night stop and a two night stop (or v/v) on the way. Stenay was entirely in the right direction, new to us, about the correct distance at 160 miles for us to have a half-day exploring (if we decided that this was only the one-nighter), and it had a "Musée de la Biere", what more could you want? (It's reviews - the aire, not the biere, had also passed muster). We set off reasonably early, in mixed weather, to make the most of the day. Well on our way we paused at Montmedy to re-victual. We've passed through before, and commented that it might be worth a visit. The aire is up near the citadel, and fairly basic I think, but a night there and exploring is still on the future agenda given it made an impression again. The aire at Stenay is a good one. Below the town, and again adjacent to the "Port de Plaisance", it is (card) barrier controlled, issuing a receipt with an exit/re-entry code. The main pitches are demarcated and well away from the barrier and the road, though it has what might be considered a large overflow space, and could take maybe 40 or 50 'vans at a push. It was reasonably well-occupied when we arrived, but one wouldn't describe it as busy. The fee of €9.40 included all services (electricity included, readily available but prominently signed as 6A maximum on pain of death, because someone has to come (from miles away?) to reset it). There were showers and toilets on site, protected by the code on the receipt. It was all very comfortable. One of the few other UK 'vans we saw on our travels was there for a few days. A quick lunch, and then off to look round town, approaching it by the back streets from the footbridge at the end of the aire. A typical French small town, not entirely exciting, but pleasant enough to wander round, and a few decent sights. The weather was at two extremes, blue sky and rain. We had to shelter under the colonnade in the centre from a particularly sharp shower, before heading off in the direction of the Musée de la Biere (an attractive building that looks like it might at one time have held an oast-house). It was late afternoon, and not really worth paying for the museum (which I suspect was very French, and was just about on "last entry" for the day). SWMBO however, was interested in the attached "Taverne" and dragged me in for a beer (Normally, of course, you wouldn't get me near one! 😉). It maintained odd hours, seemingly closing at 18:00, and was populated by a small number of what appeared to be regulars, who might well have been there all day. We sampled the house (ambré) bier, which at 8% was slow-drinking but very (very) pleasant. Then back to the 'van for dinner, followed by a walk along the canal, returning to town via the back alleys for a quiet night. Stenay was a pleasant spot to while away the day, and might have seen us stay for another if the weather had been more predictable.....but it wasn't, so we decided to move on in the morning, and head for one of our favourites, Monthermé. A repeat location for sure, but one we really like. Click for enlarged picture Click for enlarged picture Click for enlarged picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted November 6, 2022 Author Share Posted November 6, 2022 Monthermé As an aside, I had a thought about our German "Winzer" recommending Landau over Neustadt way back. Whilst we were tasting, I told him I liked his Riesling better than his Grauburgunder (which he reckoned was his best wine). Maybe he was just miffed and getting a bit of revenge. Anyway, just at the right distance and direction on our way back was Monthermé, about 50 miles away, and one of our favourite locations. Whilst we'd explored the area before, if the weather remained reasonable we reckoned we could manage a couple more nights, and be quite relaxed about it. We walked to the Boulanger in Stenay before setting off North in mixed weather, slowly improving as we drove. Our fallback for Stenay had been the aire at Mouzon about 11 miles away, another one next to the water. As we were passing we decided to check it out, for future reference. The first entrance into the town was via a narrow arch in the fortifications (just about passable, I would think) but the aire was signposted straight on, and then approached from the far end of town. We attempted this, but the road was completely shut by works, and there was no easy diversion, so we failed in our quest (though the area looked OK). I think few people who've adopted the aire habit could fail to like the one at Monthermé, despite its rather "public" positioning (Streetview is aged such that the more formal aire space that's been there for some years isn't apparent - it's not where the 'vans visible there are parked!). Monthermé is in a spectacular location, on a "boucle" of the Meuse, in a steep-sided valley. The aire is on the banks of the river, adjacent to the Port de Plaisance (again), with nice views, and the small town that has most of what you need (albeit the supermarket is a bit of a walk!). Places are demarcated, and parking is at right-angles to the road behind (which is essentially dead-end, so quiet at most times). Payment is to the adjacent "Capitainerie" which is open mornings and afternoons through early evening (though staff do circulate, and will take payment as they do so). It's €4 per night, pus 40c pp tourist tax. Electricity (€2.80 per day) is available from the pillars adjacent to the moorings on the water's edge (they're shared with the boats) and is full-fat 16A. Be aware, however, that there are limited outlets, and they are nearly a standard hook-up cables-length away from the most adjacent emplacement. If you want electricity, choose your parking space carefully for proximity and availability of a point! (The current is subsequently turned on from the office when you've paid and explained which point). This visit, for the first time the clean toilets at the Capitainerie were permanently open (even overnight, and I believe showers are still available at cost during office opening hours). Plenty of rubbish bins on the bank, but there are no facilities for waste water (black or grey) disposal. There is a service point in a layby less than a kilometre away that provides this - but see later. I didn't need water on this visit, being well-replenished at Stenay, but previously it has been available (free, but by leaving ID in the office) by borrowing a specific tap connection for the power pillars (and borrowing a long hose-set if you weren't using a container). About the only down-side to the location is the forge somewhat down the river, from which deep "booms" emanate on a regular but unpredictable basis. They seem to work somewhat less than two full shifts, though, so no noise overnight. The aire is popular, so you may have to ensure you arrive early (although it wasn't quite full either of our two nights this time). The town is well situated for walking and cycling, and even a few hours exploring it doesn't go amiss. SWMBO's past diaries rather surprised us with a record of a cycle trip from here to Vireux-Molhain (our second stop out on this trip) and back, some 56 miles all along the river! (The aire at Vireux would at that time simply have been an abandoned campsite). The best walk here is probably to two high viewpoints looking down over the town and the sweep of the river, both spectacular and picturesque. We arrived at just after midday, and after lunch booked in when the office reopened at 14:00. We then walked in reasonable weather along the river to the next town, Bogny, where there is also an aire (adequate but not as attractive) again with a separate service point on the approach road. We returned for dinner, and in the evening walked the river the other way to the end of town, and then back higher via the road. It was fortuitous we did, as we climbed past the erstwhile service point, which now was (temporarily, I'm assured) no more. It had been removed and there was obviously work still going on. A quiet night as usual. The following morning, I paid for another day, confirmed that the service point was "hors service" (not simply moved) and we walked to the supermarket and back. Across the river and to the far end of town, at a mile each way it wasn't the shortest walk to re-provision that we've had!....and then, we decided that the best use of the rest of the day was to walk as far as we could up the Semoy valley. This cuts off at right-angles from the Meuse......back at the supermarket! (So there's two miles we could have saved). On a previous visit, we'd cycled this all the way to and across the Belgian border. This was going to be shorter and slower (the latter making it different). It's an old railway track the majority of the way (hence easy) and we walked as far as Tournavaux for our packed lunch, on to Haulmé, and then returned through the woods on the other side of the river to Tournavaux, before retracing our steps. The weather was fair, if not outstanding, and it was an enjoyable 9 or 10 miles. Dinner in the 'van after cooking outside, and then a walk up through the higher part of the town on the opposite bank. Bergues was the destination for Friday night. It was 180 miles or so, but we were confident of arriving early enough for a space, so no great pressure. The final instalment awaits! (Incidentally, we were obviously enjoying our walking, and managing distance perfectly well. The description of our previous cycling demonstrates why that was being missed so much on this trio. Ah well, next time!) 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Robinhood Posted November 6, 2022 Author Share Posted November 6, 2022 ...and, for anyone who hasn't worked it out, the "Click for enlarged picture" means click on the underlined words, not the picture above - both will result in a picture display, but clicking the link rather than the picture gives a larger, higher resolution photo externally hosted; it opens in a new window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted November 8, 2022 Author Share Posted November 8, 2022 Bergues & Home Not for the first time, we were treated to an "atmospheric" morning on our departure from Monthermé. Not having had services for two days, and none at our destination, we had been expecting to dump at the service point above the town, but its unavailability resulted in us doing the 3 mile drive down to Bogny to use the service point there. Easily approachable, the grey water is drive-over, but black and fresh water are raised on a platform well above the road. It's only just occurred to me that this will be because of the proximity to the river, which floods regularly. Suitably emptied, we retraced our steps through Monthermé (with a pause at the supermarket to put in enough diesel to get us to Bergues (plus a bit)), and headed North through cloudy but dry weather. Short of Bergues, we passed an Autoroute services with LPG available. it wasn't the cheapest (nor the most expensive) we'd seen, but it was "there" (LPG was considerably more available in France than the UK). We intended to fill with diesel at the LeClerc we'd used on the way out (It was cheap), but they didn't have LPG, so we filled that. It was still less than €10, and the attendant was delighted to take my last €50 note in payment! We arrived at the aire at Bergues before 14:00, though the LeClerc we passed on the way in was completely out of fuel. (We'd seen the odd symptom of shortages over a couple of days, but it hadn't really sunk in - it was the start of the much-discussed fuel strike). I wasn't too worried, as there were other potential options, and I had enough to hit the UK anyway. We easily found a spot to park, and walked into town to the Boulangerie to buy lunch. then a wander round the length of the (almost complete) walls, and back for a BBQ dinner. A final evening's walk round other bits of the town, and that was our jaunt almost over. The following morning we had plenty of time to spare before our crossing, so back into town to buy lunch, then off to LeClerc to stock up (particularly the cellar 🍷). There was still no fuel. Given the spare time and the attractive price compared with the UK, we decided to do the short diversion (maybe 2 miles in all) to the Auchan at Grande-Synthe for fuel, which luckily they had, and cheap, so I filled up. (As it happens I could also have got cheap LPG here as well.....it might have saved me €1!). We arrived at Eurotunnel at just about earliest reporting time, and on this occasion were stuck with our nominated crossing, 2 hours away. Given the "call" happens anytime up to an hour before, getting a coffee and waiting isn't too onerous. Having passed through most of the checks, and ensuring the required passport stamp, we got pulled out of the queue and placed in a short, varied queue for further checks. "Stay in your vehicle, don't get out, we're waiting for the dog". ...and, it was quite a wait, the great majority of the remaining vehicles sailed past (just a few joining behind us) and positioned themselves in the boarding queue. Then we got a border guard with a very large Malinois walking up and down our queue. Multiple passes, both sides, and the dog was very interested in our cassette door!. I wondered what they were looking for until I noticed it's harness was emblazened with "explosifs". I'm not sure I'd left anything "explosif" in our cassette. (Well...... no!) Anyway, a few more sniffs and we were on our way. The high-space boarding lane was full, and I had to wait some time before a further one was designated, into which we went as lead vehicle. ...and, there is a god. On boarding, they opened our lane first. (As long as you get on, it's no great shakes, but first on, first off). The journey the other side was uneventful, apart from the usual delays at Dartford, and also at Ashford because of the M20 Operation Brock/Stack hangovers. We arrived home in the early evening. The whole experience was not quite the same as previous years. I think much of that was down to our, hopefully temporary, infirmities, but a bit of it was that there was definitely a perception of France (somewhat) and Germany in particular being somewhat downbeat compared with "usual". We had been tempted to eat and drink out far less (so maybe it was just us), and with the possible exception of Saarburg such outlets seemed rather less busy than usual. Having said that, there is little doubt we enjoyed ourselves immensely. How nice to go back to the "lack of planning, follow your nose, nomadic existence". We've proven once again that, with a set of random new destinations, we can find enjoyment almost anywhere. I suspect that, if we had also been cycling, we'd have overlooked the slightly more sombre covid-influenced atmosphere. But....just repeating, immensely enjoyable after the largely enforced absence. Again, writing the journey up is a little self-indulgent, but I do enjoy reflecting back on the journey, and I hope it gives some ideas for aire/Stellplatz locations to others. Till the next time... Click here for enlarged picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
witzend Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 9 minutes ago, Robinhood said: Bergues & Home Not having had services for two days, and none at our destination, we had been expecting to dump at the service point above the town, but its unavailability resulted in us doing the 3 mile drive down to Bogny to use the service point there. Bogny to empty the cassette. Thanks a lot for all pics and info enjoyed following your travels glad You got home without incident Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laimeduck Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 Yes well done Robin - I enjoyed reading your account and it's given me a few maybe's! I always do a written blog/diary for our own trips for family and friends, but it is a trifle tongue in cheek and probably would get me banned on here. - Probably best not? Out of interest, where do you get your info regarding the Aires and Stelleplatz? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted November 8, 2022 Author Share Posted November 8, 2022 It always used to be Campingcar-infos or Bordatlas, and though those sites still provide the POIs for my satnav that form a base for working on, it's now just as likely to be a trawl through Mr Google's info. Even post-Brexit, I can ensure relatively cheap mobile data access with EU roaming; certainly enough over the phones and mifi combined to give me as much research as I need abroad. If we target a particular spot, I tend to look at various reviews before making my mind up, and so far, with very few exceptions the final choice has been OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thai Bry Posted November 10, 2022 Share Posted November 10, 2022 On 11/8/2022 at 1:31 PM, laimeduck said: Yes well done Robin - I enjoyed reading your account and it's given me a few maybe's! I always do a written blog/diary for our own trips for family and friends, but it is a trifle tongue in cheek and probably would get me banned on here. - Probably best not? Out of interest, where do you get your info regarding the Aires and Stelleplatz? Likewise for me. Have and always will enjoy your blogs Robin Hood. Given me a few new ideas for our overdue long tour of southern Germany next year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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