Before 'n' After Waxoyl Treatment

[chrissyboy]

Don636 - 2018-06-05 11:50 AM

 

I would also be interested in how much this costs, say for a 6.36m PVC. Our van is 4 years old and I can't find any rust on the van other than a bit of surface rust on some of the suspension parts which I have treated and painted with Hammerite, more for cosmetic purposes than anything else. I do jet wash under the van regularly and check it out at the start of each year and touch up the minor surface rust as mentioned above. I was wondering if these vans have a reputation for serious rust and if it was worth spending on Waxoyl if you look after it regularly the way I do.

 

Fiat vans have a very bad corrosion problem in one particular place. It's a panel which I think auto design engineers call a "torsion box", ie. its purpose is to add strength to the monocoque. If you put your van up on a lift and inspect just underneath the driver's door you will find the sill. Just inboard of the sill is a curved panel which forms a large cavity. There is one on each side of the van but it seems like it's always on the driver's side (uk) that it's a problem. I've lost count of the times I've had to say: "Get that welded then bring it back for me to finish".

 

Cheers Chris

[grahamt63]

I've used waxoyl since the 80s till mid 90s.....personally I would used dinitrol, much better as it doesn't dry as much and doesn't crack like waxoyl in chassis of vehicles.

[chrissyboy]

grahamt63 - 2018-07-14 8:14 PM

 

I've used waxoyl since the 80s till mid 90s.....personally I would used dinitrol, much better as it doesn't dry as much and doesn't crack like waxoyl in chassis of vehicles.

 

I discuss this on my website here: https://before-n-after.co.uk/waxoyl-or-dinitrol.html

 

Waxoyl contains 70% white spirit. The dry film shrinks to one fifth of the wet film as the white spirit evaporates in the first few days. In doing so the waxoyl grips the substrate very tightly. Dinitrol does not do this because the carrier for Dinitrol is mineral oil. Most of the white spirit in the waxoyl is driven off in the first few days but there is always a tiny, residual amount which is till evaporating. This means that over time the film grips ever more tightly. There are chemicals which also lock on to the surface by ionic attraction - producing a synergistic gripping effect. So yes - the waxoyl will dry out over time. If it's a "garage" or diy application the waxoyl will usually have been thinned with white spirit as this is necessary with poor spraying equipment. So the waxoyl wlll dry and lose it's effectiveness in a year or two and need to be reapplied. This is not a problem for me because I can apply a very thick coating which will last for many years. That's why I have been able to give 5 year guarantees since the year 2002 when I started giving them. I don't believe that waxoyl "cracks" as you say. I have never observed this to be the case.

[John52]

I get the point about galvanised metal not needing further protection - but what about where the galvanised coating is broken by flying chipings, pierced by holes in the conversion process (van ply liners put self tappers straight through it)

And manufacturers might not like to admit their chassis needs further rust protection.

I had a Rover Maestro from new which is still o the road 30 years later :-D

Just did the underside with gear oil every few years. Still works on dirty and rusty metal.

In my experience any covering that dries allows rust to grow underneath it. Especially if the metal wasn't perfectly clean when it was applied.

I have often found rust beneath paint and underseal. But never under oil :-D

PS: Don't use old engine oil - it stinks and stains everything with the inevitable drips and spills. Use new gear oil. It sticks to the metal better, doesn't stink, washes out easily with modern detergents, you only need half a litre or so, and you don't need to do much preparation first - just brush away thick dirt. Use spray grease for areas you can't reach with a brush,but be sure to keep it away from brake discs ..

This hot dry weather is the perfect time to do it :-D

[jjsbc]

Quote, Galvanizers association of Australia.

 

Where continuity of the galvanized coating is broken by cut edges, drilled holes or surface damage, small areas of exposed steel are protected from corrosion cathodically by the surrounding coating. No touch up is necessary, and cathodic or sacrificial protection continues for many years. In service, zinc corrosion product tends to build up in coating discontinuities, slowing the rate at which the surrounding coating is consumed in protecting a damaged area.

 

A common practical example of this cathodic protection phenomenon is the uncoated internal threads of certain fasteners. The uncoated internal threads of galvanized nuts are protected from corrosion by the zinc coating on mating bolts and studs.

 

So galvanizing stops your nuts from rotting

[John52]

jjsbc - 2018-07-17 10:57 PM

 

Quote, Galvanizers association of Australia.

 

Where continuity of the galvanized coating is broken by cut edges, drilled holes or surface damage, small areas of exposed steel are protected from corrosion cathodically by the surrounding coating. No touch up is necessary, and cathodic or sacrificial protection continues for many years. In service, zinc corrosion product tends to build up in coating discontinuities, slowing the rate at which the surrounding coating is consumed in protecting a damaged area.

 

A common practical example of this cathodic protection phenomenon is the uncoated internal threads of certain fasteners. The uncoated internal threads of galvanized nuts are protected from corrosion by the zinc coating on mating bolts and studs.

 

So galvanizing stops your nuts from rotting

 

Well I've learned something new from that Thanks :-D

Perhaps it isn't necessary to further protect galvanised areas then.

But there are still some areas not galvanised that would benefit from thee protection of gear oil smeared over them - notably the sump pan. There are other bits where the galvanising has failed - like the metal shroud protecting the fuel filler pipe where it enters the tank on my X2/50 van.