whisturx Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 Both my front LED high marker lights fitted above the windscreen in my A class have only 2 out of 4 LED's still working. I have sourced replacement Jokon fittings from Germany . Just wanted some advice as to what sealant to use when fitting the replacements ? As they are screwed into place ,it does not have to be an adhesive but needs to be watertight to avoid water ingress above the windscreen. Also sun/heat and frost resistant but allow the light fittings to be changed again if necessary. Hopefully not !! Appreciate any suggestions ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 Hi Ian, I have always used Hodgsons Seamseal CV for any such repairs with good results. https://www.jacksonsofoldarley.co.uk/hodgson-seamseal-cv.html Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 We had no end of trouble with front top marker lights some years ago so eventually I replaced them with reflectors and that solved the problem. The only legal requirement was that if marker lights are fitted they both have to work, and that was the issue, they were so unpredictable that one would go out and I would be none the wiser unless I checked them. Mind you that was in the days long before reliable leds! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whisturx Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Thanks both for your comments.. I have ordered your suggestion Keith. After new leisure batteries, heater temperature control problems, turbo removal and de-gunk last year, I am hoping to use the beast in 2019 !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 Tracker - 2019-01-04 11:24 AM ...The only legal requirement was that if marker lights are fitted they both have to work..., https://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Hints-and-Tips/CI-Carioca-200-Front-roof-marker-lights/35602/ ...................................................................................................................... I’ve only used Hodgson’s ”Seamseal CV” once, some 16 years ago when I installed a bigger gas-locker door on my Herald motorhome and needed to fix a section of body-panelling into the new door’s plastic frame. It was a mistake as, although Seamseal CV is a perfectly acceptable product for the tasks described here https://hodgsonsealants.com/product-range/mastics/seamseal-cv/ as it doesn’t set or ‘skin’ meant that, on my Herald's locker door, it picked up dirt that could not be properly cleaned off. On-line photos (poor quality example attached) suggest that the LED lights simply screw on to the surface of the Frankia’s GRP body-moulding above the windscreen. If that’s correct, I’d probably use Fernox LS-X https://fernox.com/product/ls-x-external-leak-sealer-50ml/ for waterproofing the joint between light and body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankkia Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 Hi Ian. I replaced one of mine for the last MOT as the old one had the same problem as yours (only 2 out of 4 lit). I didn't bother adding any extra sealant as the original none setting sealant came away on removing the light fittings and I was able to reuse it when refitting. Your main problem is wiring the new one in and getting the cable back through the small hole into an area where there is little room behind for the extra cable. Also don't try and cut the cable short and risk losing it through the hole as getting it back would require drilling or cutting a hole from the inside. Slowly and carefully is the name of the game with a bit of patience. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whisturx Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 Thanks Derek for the tip on Hodgson Seamseal. The recessed area around the marker lights does suffer from green mouldy muck in the winter, which needs cleaning with a cotton bud . So could be a problem if this product does not set very well. Thank you Bernie . Hope you and Carol are enjoying the weather in Portugal . It's 2 º here and grey !! Does the Jokon unit come prewired so needing connectors to the existing wiring, or are there connection screws on the unit itself ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandncaravan Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 We would suggest Hodgsons Seam seal along with Keith. It doesn't go hard like the competition, and isn't meant to as it's as it is designed for parts that are taken apart. It will 'skin over' where it is exposed in Summer, but only lightly. It has quite good mould resistance so that should not be a problem. Very important that you get plenty of sealant into the screw holes before inserting the screws. Cut the end of the tube very small, press it against/into the screw hole and squeeze in a good 'dolop' Hodgsons Sealant wipes away easily, but is easily removed with White Spirit. Make sure the surface is scrupulously clean before reassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankkia Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Hi Ian. The sunshine is lovely here in Albufeira and I certainly don't want to be back in the UK at the moment. The lights come with a length of cable attached and when you pull out the old ones after removing the two screws you will need to cut the cable off them. You will then need to splice your new lamps in and tuck any spare cable and the connectors in through the centre hole in the bodywork. Put the sealant back in round the cable hole and a spot on the screw threads to make the seal. Remember do NOT let the cut cable slip inside whilst you are preparing to join the new one or you will have a devil of a job retrieving it. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whisturx Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 Hi Bernie Thanks for that . I assume that the wires are not live with the lights turned off ? Before cutting the cable. You know me and electrics !!! Enjoy the sun . Only seen it once this year so far !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Ian, If you only cut then rejoin one wire at a time you should not have any troubles and reduce the risk of the cut ends falling back into the roof. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankkia Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Hi Ian. Keith is right - cut one wire at a time (electrically safer as well as preventing the cut ends disappearing inside). You will need to leave a couple of inches, at least, on the new lights and because of the position you will be working in it is a fiddly job. Make sure your joints are very secure and well insulated before trying to get them back into the cable hole. Once you have got the joints through seal the hole with none setting sealant and push a blob (technical term ??) into the screw holes before pushing the fitting home and tightening the screws. As I said it is a fiddly job and it is a good idea not to do it when the neighbors are around. You may be tempted to aid the fitting with a few expletives ?? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whisturx Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 Good idea Keith. Lights have arrived by post today. Will wait till it's a bit warmer ! I have yet to see the size of the hole for the cables through the van roof to see what size connector block will fit through. Obviously one connector at a time rather than a double should pass through the hole. I hope !! An electrician left me a roll of special stretch insulation tape, which bonds together in time to make a waterproof seal on the same principle as heat shrink tubing. That should cover the plastic connector block without making it too big to push back into the roof space. Many thanks for all the advice. Thanks Bernie …...get back in your deck chair !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Ian, It sounds like you are talking about using 'Chocolate block' connectors with screw terminals, correct? If so I would say they are the wrong connector for the job! You need crimp connectors like these... https://www.screwfix.com/p/insulated-crimp-red-butt-pack-of-100/94616 But, you do need the proper crimp pliers for them! Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monique.hubrechtsgm Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 On my former A- class the marker lights were Jokon brand At least the lower ones. Complete s**t construction. Always full of water seeing the water balloons. And they go out before the mot. You can not replace the light. Only a new set. Are you sure this is LED. Seal them off properly using tape, press the sikaflex in by finger and tear off the tape to get a straight sealant line. That will solve the problem, because the rubber gasket does not hold the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankkia Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Hi Ian. Again I agree with Keith. Do not use choc blocks! First you won't get them through the hole and second they will not make a good job of the connection. The wires are very thin and if you can get close in to do the job are best soldered and then heat shrink insulation (remember to put the heat shrink on to the cable away from the joint before soldering). If you can't get yourself close enough in to solder or are not confident with a soldering iron, given that you don't want to drop excess solder on your windscreen or bodywork, then use the thinnest bore crimp connectors you can find. And again I agree with Keith, use a good quality crimp tool NOT the thin ones that you get with a cheap crimp kit but the ones that look like a pair of sturdy pliars. If you look at the back of your new light fittings you will see a blob of plastic where the wire comes out. The hole in the Frankia bodywork is only very slightly larger. Good luck my friend. I am off back to sit in the sun :) Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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