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Electrical rear lights problem (the sequel)


kevandali

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The original problem was the failure of internal lights, that Kevin got fixed by an electrician.

His step would only work when the van was connected to mains.

Then a problem with stop lights coming on when connected to mains.

Then he found a huge mess of broken and burned out wiring under his battery tray, which he fixed.

The stop lights problem persists, but now has the characteristic that an interior light comes on when the brake pedal is depressed if the panel switch is in "neutral" and mains are disconnected.

What intrigues me (and I have to say slightly worries me) is that the presence of a mains connection has been influencing how both van, and base vehicle, 12V electrics behave.

All that should happen (AFAIK) when the mains is connected, is that the on-board power supply/charger should provide 12V power to the van 12V electrical system, and possibly to charge the habitation battery or the starter battery, depending on the setting of the selector switch on the main panel. There should be no interface between the charger and the base vehicle electrics, other than to charge the starter battery if the panel switch is so set.

Is there possibly a relay that prevents the charger output going to the starter batter if the ignition is switched on?

Is it possible that the mess Kevin discovered under his battery tray has resulted in other damage to other wiring, so that an interface has been created between the brake lights circuit and his internal lights (it seems almost inevitable that this has happened)? Is it even possible that in making his repairs, Kevin has mis-read the colour of one of the wires and made a false connection, or has not found all of the damaged wires and there is still a rogue somewhere?

 

Questions, I know, and not solutions, but leakage currents are inclined to cause heating, and hot cables are inclined to melt their insulation with unpredictable results. so, I'm just hoping the recap may spark (sorry! :-)) further ideas. I'm afraid I just have this mental picture of Kevin's van going up in smoke because something overheats badly while he's still trying to work out what! :-(

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Thanks for all that, Brian. Going to re read all the thread and have a real go to sort it on Tuesday or Wednesday.

 

Just came back from the lake district, when on the way up, pulled into a layby and noticed my left hand side side lights and back light were out, found the blown fuse but on replacing it, it blew straight away so had to carry on with one back light on as it wasn't dark yet.

 

On arriving at our destination, flicked the control panel switch to the habitation position and had no power at all to the control panel.

 

Found out that the main leisure battery fuse had blown, replaced it and again switched to the leisure battery position and it blew straight away.

 

So spent the weekend in candle light but luckily our gas stove worked so wasn't too bad.

 

As an added bonus, the set of 3 fuses in the engine compartment, the bottom one of 3 had blown so the electric step wouldn't work, replaced that and it worked fine but just got home and not working again.

 

Basicaly, at the moment there is no 12v power at all to the habitation area apart from two reading lights that are fed off the engine battery.

 

As soon as the control panel switch is operated it blows the leisure battery fuse.

 

Not going to think about it tonight, going to take a few deep breaths and have a go tomorrow.

 

I am going to try and trace everything i can, if someone can tell me roughly where the main wires run that would be a help, I assume that I should be really taking a close look at all wires under the van and all those visible in the engine compartment.

 

All the driving up North has seemed to make the electrical problem worse.

 

oh well, we will see what happens!!

 

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I have to say that I really do think its time you stopped trying to DIY when (sorry but there's no polite way to say this) you obviously don't fully understand what you're doing and bite the bullet, get a properly qualified and experienced auto electrician to sort it out for you before your van sets fire to itself. If your gas boiler was playing up with odd faults like this you would get a qualified gas engineer in wouldn't you? (assuming of course that is not your trade:D).

 

D.

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Sorry Kev but I'm now in total agreement with Dave and Brian.

We had tried to help you when it was a simple fault and thought you had found it with the damaged loom under the battery but it now seems you have a far more serious second fault, possibly caused by the first.

The fuses are not just blowing for fun, you have a serious fault causing so many fuses to blow!

 

I'm not even going to make any suggestions this time other than re-iterate the above - get some help before you lose your van :-(

 

Keith.

 

PS. I hear there is a very good auto electrician specialising in leisure vehicles based in Telford, it might be worth trying this Link. :D

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I am afraid i agree with the sentiments getting a professional in.

 

 

There is one last thing you could try. Remove the passenger door foot step as the cabe harness for the left rear lights runs under the plastic step insert ( the bit your passenger always drops your change for tolls!!!)and may have shorted to habitation wiring here. Also remove the curved plastic trim up over wheel arch area and below dash. If you find nothing I would call it a day and get help.

If you do find shorted cables then you may be on a winner, and can proceed to check drivers door step. When finished I would still get an auto electrician to check repairs and rest of cables.

 

Do not go replacing fuses to test a circuit. Check with a multmeter 1st for any votls on the protected circuit to chassis or 0 volts, and then change multimeter setting to measure the resistance. (After measurements always set multimeter back to volts)

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Ok, won't be able to sleep in the van now anyway, thanks to some very sensible and constructive advice :-)

 

Going to have one more good look then will be ringing to find a suitable auto electrician (any ideas who I might try, Nottinghamshire/South Yorkshire area)

 

Cheers Kev

 

Don't fancy repeating this.... http://www.shropshirestar.com/news/2011/12/01/motorhome-destroyed-in-west-felton-blaze/

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kevandali - 2012-01-30 10:07 PMOk, won't be able to sleep in the van now anyway, thanks to some very sensible and constructive advice :-)

 

Going to have one more good look then will be ringing to find a suitable auto electrician (any ideas who I might try, Nottinghamshire/South Yorkshire area)

 

Cheers Kev

 

Don't fancy repeating this.... http://www.shropshirestar.com/news/2011/12/01/motorhome-destroyed-in-west-felton-blaze/

Good man, now we can all sleep soundly! :-) BTW, there is, I think, one golden rule with fuses. In general, a fuse will only blow if the circuit is overloaded. A circuit that suddenly and inexplicably blows it fuse is liable to have suffered overload due to a short circuit. In general, for that reason, it is not good practise to replace a blown fuse until the cause of the overload has been found and cured.Something, somewhere, is radically wrong on your van. It may well be quite a small and simple fault, and will, with any luck, be easy to fix once found. As it seems to be changing in nature, and to some extent becoming worse, it may well be underfloor wiring such as Jon (Brambles) suggests, that has chafed through due to being repeatedly compressed, unseen, under feet, that has now begin to short between circuits, and from time to time to earth.For now, as a safety precaution, I would suggest you disconnect your leisure battery to protect it from possible flattening, isolate all your 12V circuits to eliminate flattening the starter battery (I know it shouldn't be involved - but there seem to be a number of things electrical that shouldn't be happening!), and then disconnect mains so that the power pack is not putting 12V into anything. Good luck with finding a capable electrician, and I hope he doesn't charge too much!
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Just letting everyone know.... van sorted..... I hope.

There was a dead short on two cables that went from the habitation control panel to a roof light that loked like it was added at a later date to the rest of the lights as the cables were a different colour.

There was also other smaller problems sorted but at the moment, fingers crossed, all working as it should.

please don't ask me to explain the rear brake light problem that has now gone, because not a clue!

In future I think going the qualified route could be the way to go.

 

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