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Alko chassis Jacking


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Back to tugging after 15+ years of R-V`ing. Something which was not a issue back then is the (approved) method of Jacking the latest generation of Alko Chassis. Alko state in their warranty that jacking other than by use of the "jacking" points will invalidate said warranty. obviously no issue if your van is years out of warranty BUT mine is new. Looking into the availability of jacks etc I an skeptical that the Alko jack of "side lift" design is sufficiently substantial to be effective. So how about other methods?


I have a 2tonne (small) trolley jack for example, and I would expect that it would be more that adequate to lift the Van (Lunar Quasar MGW 1500kg) But where to Mount it?. (Alko insist that the Side rails NOT be used to jack direct) I note that there is provision to fit "jack points" (2 12mm holes either side of the Van Rails to the rear of the Wheel) and would surmise that a bracket securely bolted there would take the head of the jack?.


Regular jacking of the van is necessary because the `van is parked on the driveway and the hitch secures to a Post driven into the drive where it is secured by the (insurance required) Alko Hitch lock. However this then required that the `van must be jacked up in order to fit the (insurance required) Wheel Lock (Alko too). So Back to Jacking. How do others manage this "chore". bearing in mind that once on the Post the `van can no longer be moved to line the wheel with the locking point behind the wheel!!! Currently I favour using these supplied holes to bolt a fabricated bracket the the chassis where by the "head" of the Trolley jack will locate and should provide a secure and stable means of raising the wheel high enough to allow movement, and thereby locate the Wheel clamp.


Didn`t have this bother on my R-V . mutter mutter mutter!!. all I was required to have was an Alarm (Thatcham) and immobilizer!!



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I use a trolley jack under the point where the axle meets the side beams. It is a b....r to put in place I accept but is the best way to lift the thing.


I also did fit brackets for an electric jack where recommended and this worked a treat. Push the remote control and up she went. However, my storage area had a slight slope to the side and one of the brackets bent. Ok, probably made in China. My next plan is to get the brackets strengthened with gussets and re use them. Kojak make jacks that do a similar job but they are a bit more expensive. Yes, I maybe should have just done that but you live and learn.


One thing you will find is that although a caravan is lighter than a car, it is much heavier to jack up. So use a rated jack. Minimum 2 tonne. Logical when you think about it as it only has 2 wheels instead of 4. So be careful whatever you do and always lower the steadies as a safety precaution, even though ti is a pain doing so each time.

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Hi Pete,


We had a folding camper on an Al-Ko chassis (plated to 1,000 kg) and I made 2 brackets cut from the sides of 3 mm thick steel box section approx 75 mm wide and maybe 150 mm long with something like 10 mm of side return to pick up on the mounting points you mention and protrude approx 10 mm below the chassis rail.

I used to jack the unit up until both wheels where just clear of the ground and place on axle stands every winter using a pair of scissor jacks and it worked very well until we sold it. The side return also stopped the jack sliding out back or fore.

I removed the brackets and jack and sold them separately when we traded the unit for our MH as they would not have added value to the trade in price.

I had looked at the genuine Al-Ko and others before I made mine but decided I could make better for no cost :D


Make your own, just remember to brace for side loads.


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