Alanb Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 I have what I believe is small leak on the clutch master cylinder of my 2006 Ducato 2.8 JTD. I am considering DIY replacement as I have all necessary bleeding equipment and tools, and I am aware of the need to remove two air hoses in order to access the bleed point on the slave cylinder. However on consulting Fiat documentation available to me, it takes you down the route of removing the lower dashboard panel and then the complete pedal assembly, after first draining the combined brake and clutch fluid reservoir. I am trying to assess the practicality of clamping off the cluch master cylinder feed hose, and after draining the master cylinder only, removing it from under the dashboard. The difficult problem that I can foresee lies in lining up and refitting the clevis pin that attaches the master cylinder to the clutch pedal, while working from under the dashboard. Has anyone attempted this operation successfully please? Any comments as to whether this approach is feasable? Any other pitfalls? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Alanb - 2017-01-29 2:56 PM I have what I believe is small leak on the clutch master cylinder of my 2006 Ducato 2.8 JTD. Hi Alan, Before you get too involved please can I ask you to take a step back and explain how you have arrived at your diagnosis? It may, possibly, save you a lot of grief??? Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Hi Keith, Last year I noticed dampness on the underside of the master cylinder, and wiped it dry. It could have been either hydraulic fluid, or fluid emanating from possible grease under the dust cap which surrounds the piston rod. More recently, I have found a droplet forming at the lower end of the master cylinder, and dampness along the length of it.. Nothing to see on the cab carpet. No noticeable change in the reservoir level. My personal experience of the failure of clutch hydraulics many years ago, on a Saab 99, was that I had little warning. I do not wish to repeat the experience! Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Collings Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 This is the sort of job that would suit a vet used to working via the fundamental orifice of cattle. I am 6' 2" and broad in the shoulder and hate working in the pedal area. If you can get a look at the circlip that secures the pin you can decide if you have the tool needed t remove it. Most decent tool stores stock a range of circlip pliers that open in the correct direction ( probably opening) and either straight or bent sideways to suit the job. A word search for images of the cylinder suggest that its fastened to the bulkhead by a couple of nuts on trapped studs. 1/4 or 3/8" square drive sockets are a lot lighter to handle for prolonged periods in these awkward locations. Don/t fit the cylinder dry. I always try to bleed it first and then cap or plug the connections, with any luck if you connect all but the outlet and let it drip for a few moments there will be no need to bleed further. That technique is worth trying on brake master cylinders. Apologies if I am teaching grannie how to suck eggs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Hi George, Thanks for you comments. The circlip is of the folded flat rectangular type, and the Fiat Manual suggests removal using a suitable screwdriver. The cylinder fixing bolts are 8mm diameter, with 5mm hexagon recess in a mushroom head. I did wonder if it was a Torx T30 recess, as I could not see well enough with an inpection mirror. A paper rubbing followed by removal and inspection of one bolt has confirmed the 5mm hexagon recessed head. I used a 1/4" square drive ratchet, with dedicated bit. I think that a 3/8" square drive would foul the cylinder body. My main concern is the clevis pin linking the cylinder piston to the clutch pedal. Following from my recent bolt removal it looks like the clutch sensor switch will have to be removed from its' mounting, before the pin can be extracted.. As to aligning the pedal and cylinder to replace the pin, I am currently thinking about starting with a tapered drift, pushing this back out with a suitable round bar or tube, and then finally pushing this aid out with the pin. A three stage process! I am not sure about priming the cylinder before manouvering it into position, as an escape of fluid inside the vehicle is one of my concerns. However a small quantity of hydraulic fluid may well be a useful lubricant for the piston. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 For the possible benefit of anyone contemplating this operation, may I belatedly report that the operation was a complete success, and easier than I feared. I found it helpfull to remove the RH lower dash panel to improve access to the pedal area. I avoided draining and hence the need to bleed the brake system as suggested in a Fiat manual. This was achieved by using a trick drawn from Hayes manuals. I filled the hydraulic reservoir to the brim, and covered the filler neck with thin plastic sheet held in place with rubber bands. Then using Clic pliers I removed the master cylinder hose from the reservoir and quickly closed the outlet with a blanking cap from the new cylinder. At the same time the hose was supported and tied up with string to the screen wiper drive. (Handy anchor point.) Access to the slave cylinder again requires Clic pliers to remove the clips from the air inlet hoses. I settled for removing the inlet hose to the filter completely, and disconnecting the hose to the turbo, the free end of which was covered to prevent foreign bodies getting into the turbo. By pushing this hose out of the way it was possible to drain the clutch cylinders using the slave cylinder bleed nipple which is opened by prising a "U" shaped spring clip away from the nipple, and then pulling the nipple outwards. With the clutch cylinders drained, I removed the master cylinder complete with inlet hose from the vehicle. Problem the hose was attached to the cylinder with a non reuseable single ear clip which I had to prise off, after noting the angular position of the hose relative to the cylinder. I transfered the hose to the new cylinder using the clip removed from the reservoir end, and refitting was a reverse of the removal. One of my main worries was of aligning the master cylinder and peda. Thisl turned out to be unfounded. The end of the piston rod fitted snugly into the pedal, and the pin located easily. For reasons of cost and availability I replaced the now missing hose clip at the cylinder with, a suitably sized stainless steel petrol hose clip. With the hydraulics connected the clutch system was bled, and the the air hoses were replaced. If this report helps anyone, my efforts will not have been in vain. Thanks to all those who responded. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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