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Hi Barry,

 

I'm assuming you've checked the obvious and that all other 230 V appliances are working correctly?

 

Does the 230 V light on the fridge light up or not?

 

Or has a breaker tripped in the PSU or has the local isolation switch for the fridge been accidentally turned off? The switch for our fridge is under the settee next to the fridge, do you have one in a similar location?

 

Keith.

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Keithl - 2018-05-10 9:53 AM

 

PJay - 2018-05-10 9:11 AM

 

Silly question I know, BUT do you have gas . Do the other appliances work on gas?

 

PJay

 

Nice suggestion Pauline but Barry says it is 'OK on Gas and 12 V'.

 

I did say it was a SILLY question.!! I miss read the Op. I thought it was not working on gas!

 

Having a bad day. Getting ready for the ferry on Monday Sorry Barry

PJay

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This MHFacts forum thread relates to a Dometic RM7361 fridge (which I think your 2011 “Apache” may have) not functioning on mains 230V power.

 

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/forum-printtopic-1-188065-0-0-asc-viewresult-1.html

 

There is a difference though, as you say “The light on fridge does not light up” when 230V-operation is selected (I assume you mean the indicator light on the fridge’s control panel), whereas the MHFacts entry says "The indicator light on the fascia panel IS illuminated”.

 

As you’ve confirmed that 230V is reaching the fridge ‘downstream’ of its plug/socket (ie. the plug’s fuse is OK) and the fridge’s indicator-light does not illuminate, I suppose a fault with the fridge’s printed-circuit-board needs to be suspected.

 

 

 

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Derek Uzzell - 2018-05-11 8:02 AM

 

This MHFacts forum thread relates to a Dometic RM7361 fridge (which I think your 2011 “Apache” may have) not functioning on mains 230V power.

 

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/forum-printtopic-1-188065-0-0-asc-viewresult-1.html

 

There is a difference though, as you say “The light on fridge does not light up” when 230V-operation is selected (I assume you mean the indicator light on the fridge’s control panel), whereas the MHFacts entry says "The indicator light on the fascia panel IS illuminated”.

 

As you’ve confirmed that 230V is reaching the fridge ‘downstream’ of its plug/socket (ie. the plug’s fuse is OK) and the fridge’s indicator-light does not illuminate, I suppose a fault with the fridge’s printed-circuit-board needs to be suspected.

 

 

 

 

Derek has mentioned the fridge plug's fuse, another possibility is failure of the fridge 240V element or associated connections.

 

Alan

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Alan

 

I believe your motorhome has a Dometic RM7361 fridge.

 

Although the fridge would obviously be incapable of cooling on 230V if its 230V heating element had failed, do you know if a failed element would also stop the fridge’s 230V indicator light from illuminating?

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The indicator light will undoubtedly be powered by the 12V circuit, not the 240v circuit, so it is virtually certain that the element is unconnected.

 

Having recently (as posted elsewhere) diagnosed an issue where a friend's AES fridge (not this model) wouldn't switch off or regulate temperature on 240V (as long as he was hooked up, and regardless of any fridge settings), I suspect that the 240V supply is similarly controlled at the PCB simply by going in and out of a 12V operated, 240V switch relay (with no other 240V function on the PCB)..

 

Failure of that relay (in the open position) could account for the issue, as could a failed PCB elsewhere, or possibly (though not likely if the indicator lights come on for other sources) failure of the 12V supply to the fridge controls (which may be separate to that for the 12V element).

 

If any control panel lights are available in various modes, I would suspect the PCB, if not, then check the 12V control feed (wires/fuses, etc).

 

The PCBs are not cheap to replace (c£140 for this model), and a little testing might be in order. By exchanging the PCB relay which had failed in the closed position, my friend fixed the problem for c£10, rather than the £220 replacement cost for his fridge.

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My fridge is a RMDT8505 and I suspect it is a bit sensitive to low mains voltages. I was once on a fairly remote site on EHU and the fridge would switch to gas when the Alde water heater came on (set at 2kW). Switching the Alde to 1kW or off altogether and the fridge would switch back to mains.

My only explanation is that the 230V was low and the extra drop in the cable dropped it below the working threshold voltage on the fridge.

 

If your problem is not the heater element, it might be worth checking the mains voltage. In the UK, the lower limit can be 216V (230V -6%/+10%). I don't know what voltage the fridge will tolerate though.

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plwsm2000 - 2018-05-11 3:27 PM

 

My fridge is a RMDT8505 and I suspect it is a bit sensitive to low mains voltages. I was once on a fairly remote site on EHU and the fridge would switch to gas when the Alde water heater came on (set at 2kW). Switching the Alde to 1kW or off altogether and the fridge would switch back to mains.

My only explanation is that the 230V was low and the extra drop in the cable dropped it below the working threshold voltage on the fridge.

 

If your problem is not the heater element, it might be worth checking the mains voltage. In the UK, the lower limit can be 216V (230V -6%/+10%). I don't know what voltage the fridge will tolerate though.

Phil, your fridge is an AES model, and these can be voltage sensitive and switch to gas if the supply falls below a set threshold. However, the OP's fridge (actual model not stated) seems to be an MES model, which should not respond to mains voltage fluctuations.

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