gp1 Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 Hello talking to some racing driver bloke who designed parts for some well known car manufacturer. Hes a lecturer on motor mechanics at a college in wales. Hes got a racing car that can go from 0-60 in 3 point something seconds. Anyway he suggested i get some stuff from halfords the flush out the engine. Aparently after a while you get metal shavings at the bottom and all kinds of gunk from where the engine is working away at presumably the surfaces inside the engine. Shall i get some? Also he said about my 94 vw that the engine has just about settled by 100 k miles. And that this is the time when the engine is at its best. It will go on to do 2 hundred k then things will start going wrong. (As long as i do oil and cambelt ect). At my present rate of usage this could be in 10 years time. Anyway what do you reckon? Engine flush? P.s. He reckoned to be a good racing driver you have to be able to feel the surface of the road. Through the vehicle i would imagine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/38032/when-is-an-engine-flush-a-good-idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billggski Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 It used to be standard maintenance along with greasing nipples, checking the points with a feeler gauge, adding Red-ex every time you filled up etc.. On a '94 engine you may have some sludge building up, but if it's been looked after with regular oil changes, I'd leave well alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagey Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 as above leave it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 There is a huge difference between a racing engine that is kept spotless by frequent rebuilds and the engine in a 14 year old motorhome and whilst he probably means well I personally would never flush a 14 year old engine. On some engines there is a magnet in the sump plug which is there to collect metal shards and unless that is missing or regularly shows signs of collecting a lot of filings I would leave it well alone. If it really worries you then maybe change the oil, using the correct grade, after a thousand miles or so a couple of times but that apart if it ain't broke don't try to fix it. Using the correct grade of good quality oil seems to be crucial in todays engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp1 Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 Very knowledgeable advice thanks. Those eingineers were amazing werent they. A magnet in the engine to collect the bits. Whod have thought it. Yes the the little kit car he was stood next to was rebuilt ever year. Looked immaculate. Ill do an oil change. Cheers. And thanks for the link ill have a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 There is probably a magnet in the drain plug of the gearbox too and if you feel really keen, a change of oil and 'de-whiskering' of the drain plug (if it has one?) probably wouldn't do that any harm, but it is probably a really messy job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 And whilst you are at it with liquids, when was the last time the brake fluid or engine coolant were changed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletguy Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 A 14yr old diesel engine won't need flushing...simply drain out after a run (so it's hot) and refill. Whatever the manufacturer recommends, change the oil at that period (usually every 6-8000mls). Much depends on engine make, eg; a Ford Transit of that age was fairly 'agricultural' and not as fussy as more current day diesel or petrol engines though do use the right oil (you won't need synthetic). With the right fuel pump a Mk3 or 4 Transit will run on used chip fryer oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp1 Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 Wow thats given me alot to think about but de whiskering the plug might be an interesting couple of hours. Ive never got my hands dirty on an engine before but would like to be able to change the oil myself as i think its a worthwhile and economical thing to do. Many thanks. Magnets in tbe gearbox. Whatever next. This drain out and fill after a hot run. And refill. Is that an oil change? Dont worry ill have a look on youtube so im not starting from such an low level of understanding. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 If you can beg borrow or even buy a Haynes or similar manual that might help you find everything. Most sump or drain plugs have a washer, often copper and often called a gasket because they are generally compressed when you tighten the plug. They are supposed to be replaced each time you use them and to avoid nasty leaks all over your drive they are well worth getting even at the probably ridiculous price that VW parts tend to be! Do not over tighten the plugs as that too can cause leaks or even damage to the sump. If you can stand the van with the plug at the lowest point you stand a better chance of getting most ofthe old oil out. Ramps are safer than jacks for getting more lay under space or just drive all four wheels up onto a single (one for each wheel) concrete block and an old rug or summat will not only catch the spills but be more comfortable to lay on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billggski Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 The waste oil needs careful handling, use protective gloves and recycle at your local depot. https://www.recyclenow.com/what-to-do-with/engine-oil-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 Tracker - 2018-06-27 8:41 PM ... or just drive all four wheels up onto a single (one for each wheel) concrete block DO NOT use concrete blocks or bricks to support a vehicle! They can crumble and fail without giving any warning. If you do not have the proper ramps or axle stands the only thing I would ever consider using is good quality timber, such as plywood or joist off-cuts. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 For years I used concrete blocks and, running over a brick to lessen the step up, I never had one crumble or split. I do mean proper concrete blocks (I used 6" blocks) not lightweight thermal or older breeze blocks as they can break up under weight especially if the surface is uneven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flicka Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 gp1 - 2018-06-27 8:25 PM Wow thats given me alot to think about but de whiskering the plug might be an interesting couple of hours. Ive never got my hands dirty on an engine before but would like to be able to change the oil myself as i think its a worthwhile and economical thing to do. Many thanks. Magnets in tbe gearbox. Whatever next. This drain out and fill after a hot run. And refill. Is that an oil change? Dont worry ill have a look on youtube so im not starting from such an low level of understanding. Cheers. NO - it's important that you need to change the Oil Filter also. That can be the "messy" part of an Oil Change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartO Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 Tracker - 2018-06-27 10:12 PMFor years I used concrete blocks and, running over a brick to lessen the step up, I never had one crumble or split. I do mean proper concrete blocks (I used 6" blocks) not lightweight thermal or older breeze blocks as they can break up under weight especially if the surface is uneven. When we were lads concrete was concrete and 'Elf 'n Safety didn't exist; you would probably just stick a block under the car and see if it worked. But construction materials are more complex these days and many do not have much crush strength, and motorhomes are often much heavier than cars. So using just any old block of maybe concrete to support a MH is really not a good idea.Better not to contradict good safety advice Tracker, even if you think you can tell the crush strength of a block just by eye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandncaravan Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 I would suggest you don't use a flush. Why would you want to disturb any crud that is in the sump and pump it all around the engine a few times? Oil filters don't always filter the small particles, especially if the filter is well used and the pressure release bypass valve is partly open or the spring tired. The important thing when changing oil is to get it really hot and withdraw/raise the dipstick slightly so air can get in. Then, when the oil drains, it drains fast, taking all the rubbish in the sump with it. I have always thought it was better on a 'new' purchase where the engine history wasn't known to change the oil and filter with a 'cheap' oil and let that 'clean' the engine before doing a second oil change 1,000 miles later. On pre-Euro 5 engines the difference in cost between budget Oil and expensive oil was generally the length of time it lasted or the mileage it covered while 'staying in grade'. But that doesn't mean nasty oil. Even a budget oil to API SG standard is better than Ferrari ever used in Formula One up to the 1990's, and they did ok, even in flat out 24 hour races. Suggest you do an oil and filter change using 10/40 or maybe 15/40 in the Summer, with an SG/SH mineral or semi synthetic rating. Then use a better quality oil in 1,000 miles. But don't ask a lower cost oil to last more than 6,000 miles. Obviously this oil advice changes for Cat/DPF equipped vehicles which require different characteristics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 Never just by eye, by weight and examination too and whilst I appreciate that others may lack the ability or experience to judge the suitability of a block I still consider concrete blocks far safer than jacking a vehicle up and inserting axle stands under the correct support points, assuming you know where and how. To get a vehicle level you would need 4 axle stands and that is an absolute NO as it is unstable. I have seen axle stands topple but I have never seen a proper concrete block fail and I would always choose concrete blocks over axle stands every time. Concrete blocks are used in building and I suggest that in any building the weight of many layers of blocks on top of the lower block far exceeds the weight of one corner of a motorhome on one block on solid level ground. Each individual will distill the various views, carry out their own research, and make their own decisions on the best method to suit their circumstances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp1 Posted June 28, 2018 Author Share Posted June 28, 2018 Yes if i were to use concrete blocks i would give them a whack against a stone wall or something first. Its a wierd thing the human mind. If your stood on a parapet a foot wide 100 feet up you would not be confident. But stood on one foot off the ground you would never fall off. Same with squeezing through gaps in expensive motorhomes. Your mind is telling you a space is risky. The van looks wider than it is and space shorter. If you think about things or worry the risk is magnified by 100. Last night handbrake cable snapped and i chocked up car on a slight incline. There was nothing in front except a small wall some way off and the edge of a big drop. Even though logic tells you theres no way the car is going to move you still worry. Dont worry im not going to be having a go at oil change just yet. Garage prices in wales are really good. 180 for cambelt change here. 480 in bristol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 Tracker - 2018-06-28 11:02 AM Concrete blocks are used in building and I suggest that in any building the weight of many layers of blocks on top of the lower block far exceeds the weight of one corner of a motorhome on one block on solid level ground. . FFS NO Competent mechanic gets under a vehicle supported on concrete blocks Half-Decent Concrete is massively strong under compression with a DISTRIBUTED STEADY load But dropping a van on one is like hitting it with a hammer and chisel. It cracks and shatters easily, Its also harder so there is less friction than wood, making it far more likely to slip DON'T DO IT!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John52 Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 I'll try and explain it another way Take a stout drinking glass, stand on it and try and crush it. You probably can't Now take a hefty bit of steel and hit it - like dropping a van on it Not so strong then is it It gets worse when you see how easily it is for oily metal to slide on it, compared to wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 As ever you choose to misunderstand. Where did I ever say drop a van onto anything, that would indeed be foolish? It might be your way but some of us prefer to drive up slowly and evenly onto blocks supported on level and firm ground and done properly with all four wheels supported evenly there is nothing more secure and safe to work under. If anyone does not like the idea of using solid concrete blocks then don't do it, instead faff about with jacks and axle stands if you think it's better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartO Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 Let's not disgress too far from the subject of flushing the engine chaps. I suppose if you are gentle enough when you lower on to them, you could use a layer of eggs to support a motorhome but even Tracker wouldn't do that and lie under it. Clearly however his faith in concrete blocks is uncrackable and he's constitutionally incapable of admitting he's wrong anyway, even when he is clearly wrong, so let's just leave him to his foolishness. Perhaps he gained his confidence in leaving cars supported on four piles of blocks and no wheels during his mis-spent youth. :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 Right or wrong is just a matter of opinion and if you don't trust concrete blocks then that is your choice. I do and that is my choice. Others will form their own opinions without the need for snide comments from you. Oh I see, I am very sorry Stuart, I misunderstood your sense of humour and I thought you were having a wee snide attack moment! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartO Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 Sorry if I over-taxed your sense of humour there Tracker. I'd forgotten how easily it disappears when you think you are being criticised.I draw comfort from the fact that you haven't got a MH to put up on blocks these days and nor, I hope, do you do much grovelling underneath a car either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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