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Trip Report : Germany May 2019


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I started a couple of trip logs last year, but was overtaken by events and hadn't completed them.


Having rediscovered the attempts, and having a little time on my hands, I'm now trying to catch up, and, as I have done in the past, I'm posting them here in installments.


It is a little self-indulgent, but I know some have kindly lied that they enjoyed my past efforts, so in the hopes that it will give some enjoyment, and also a little inspiration to other travellers, here goes.


We find that, as of late, much of our travelling has focussed on Germany (with some forays into Belgium and France on the way); as a country it lends itself to casually-planned motorhome use, and we invariably find something of interest wherever we eventually end up. Walking and cycling are generally well catered for throughout, and food and drink are relatively inexpensive, even eating and drinking out.


So, having a holiday in Canada scheduled to start in June, we set out, somewhat earlier than customarily, on the 9th of May from Harwich, bound for the Hook of Holland with an outline plan to tour up to the Baltic Coast, loop North of Hamburg, and then visit the city on the way back. The actual route would, as usual, depend on us following our noses and the weather, though there were a couple of potential targets already defined.


Heading for Northern Europe we have the choice of North Sea ferries from Hull, or Stena line from Harwich. Both save some mileage and time against a short sea crossing, but the Hull route is relatively expensive, and, because of the ferry timings conflicting with traffic at the ports, somewhat less relaxing than it should be. So, this time it was to be Harwich-Hook overnight, and Hook-Harwich as a day crossing (the latter cutting the cost slightly, and both timings are relatively convenient). The Stena Line boats have less "public" space, and don't go for the "entertainment" like the North Sea ones do, but the cabin accommodation is, IMO, rather superior, so it suits us.


Scheduled sailing time is 23:00, and we were loaded at 21:30 but freight loading continued until 00:30! (It wasn't surprising given they were shoehorning artics in with little more than a couple of inches to spare, and at which point we retired to bed). After a calm crossing, we arrived on time at 08:00, though we were one of the last unloaded.


The Hook is rather easier to exit than Europort (Rotterdam) and it was some time before we realised that the satnav was taking us on a magical mystery tour of The Hague :-( . Not really where we wanted to be, and recovery was exacerbated by a number of the obvious escape routes being closed. That'll teach me to play with the settings and not revert them. Anyway, we finally found our way to the motorway.


Our target for the night was a Stellplatz just outside Bad Essen, around 200 miles away, that mileage hopping over areas we'd done before and stopping somewhere new. We took the opportunity to stop and stock up with provisions, and arrived in time for a late lunch.




There was plenty of space here, and we booked in immediately as the owner turned up more or less at the same time.




€9 per night plus €2 for electricity (and a nominal amount for water). It had obviously been very wet in the preceding days, and I was "warned off" the very grassy area, but there was still plenty of choice on the harder ground. We had an afternoon wander into Bad Essen, a short walk away across the canal, which turned out to be a very attractive little town, with intriguing parkland and half-timbered buildings. At the Tourist Information we picked up some walk leaflets, one of which described a reasonable length walk taking in a couple of Schlosses, which looked promising for the morrow, weather permitting, and we returned to the 'van for a meal, and then a further stroll along the adjoining Mittelland Kanal, on a very pleasant evening.








The following morning, Saturday, dawned cold with the slightest of drizzle, but was forecast to clear and we decided to stay and do a reasonable walk. We wandered into town first (largely to take a few phone photos of the local maps from the boards in town) then set out to walk round the two Schlosses mentioned above, Schloss Hünnefeld and Schloss Ippenburg. It was about a 10 mile circular walk, and happily the former had a very nice café attached, so we were able to take refreshment. As promised, the day improved and it was a pleasant stroll back to the 'van. A short break, and then off into Bad Essen for a restaurant meal to round off an enjoyable day.




Schloss Hünnefeld


Time to move on in the morning, and as Magdeburg was pencilled in as an itinerary point, we selected a Stellplatz at Bodenwerder as a potential next day, part-way stop.



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I'd actually drawn a (rough) circle on the map, advised slightly by possible stopover points, and heading East and then North, Magdeburg had presented itself (more of our interest later), and that had then introduced the Harz mountains (somewhere we had briefly visited shortly after German reunification and wished to explore further). As we generally like to slow down a bit after our first hop, research showing a potential Stellplatz at Bodenwerder, 70 miles away, rather set our direction.


Smallish, on the River Weser, and surrounded by countryside, Bodenwerder claims to be the birthplace of Baron Von Munchhausen (but is it? ;-) ). The Stellplatz here would have been ideal, but it was in a state of some substantial fettling. That deprived us of a hook-up (since the electrics were being comprehensively upgraded and were off) and also the flatter pitches (being worked on). It had the advantage, however, of ensuring we were the sole occupiers (until fairly late in the evening when we were joined by one other) and, not needing 'leccy, we found a flat enough corner with chocks. The Stellplatz is a very short walk into town, and is a dedicated area entered through the main car park, and is nominally limited to a single night's stop.






The daily rate was (then) €6, paid at the kiosk/snack bar at the entrance to the site, where there were also toilets. I can't vouch for the electricity cost, as we didn't, obviously, use it. I note from the Promobil link above (and others) that €9 is being quoted as the current price which, given the apparent investment, wouldn't surprise me. None of the pictures available online, however appear to show the upgraded pitches, which looked as though they would be excellent.


Having arrived by midday, we had a stroll around the town, looking for possibilities for evening eating, and investigating all the Munchhausen-related sculptures, etc.




Anyway, the locals were obviously suspicious, and sent a squadron of Messerschmitts to check us out.




The river lends a certain grace to the setting, and we decided to walk up to a look-out tower on the other side of the valley, to pass the afternoon. You can just (a spot of white almost hidden by a tree) see the 'van on the Stellplatz, to the right of the flat gravel area next to the nearest girder bridge.




The walk was a round one, and only 6 miles, but it felt quite a bit longer. We were glad it was only a short walk out in the evening to eat enjoyably at a very-well patronised Greek restaurant in town (busy for Sunday evening, possibly).


Only a short section this time, as, having used up our overnight stop (and it was entirely quiet), on the morrow we were off to the Harz, and a very enjoyable stopover that deserves a longer description.



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And so, on the Monday morning at 09:00, we set out on a lovely, if cold day, to look at the Stellplatz at Ilsenburg, in the Harz, heading there via Seesen and Goslar, and again about a 70 mile drive.


There were several possible Stellplätze as targets, but the one at Ilsenburg appeared to tick most of our boxes. Quiet, easy access to countryside, and near enough to walk to all the usual facilities. As such, it won against places like Wernigerode, which would have been interesting for the (steam) trains, but rather too urban for more than a night.


We arrived before midday; the Stellplatz is in a valley beyond the town, which looked very attractive as we drove through, and it turned out to be a gem of a spot with room for about 60 'vans, but much quieter than that during our stay.








It cost us €13 per night incl. tourist tax for two (now €14, I think). There was free wifi, and electricity and fresh water were chargeable as used. Fees were paid in the outdoor shop on the other side of the (virtually dead-end) road, where there were (chargeable) showers, and rolls could be ordered for the morning (There were also toilets on the pitch, which had a key-hire charge). All very friendly, and the tourist tax covered, amongst other things, the local public transport services.


This was the "jumping off point" for much of the local walking in this area of the Harz, and it was also about 3/4 mile walk into the centre of Ilsenburg. Not a large town, but enough facilities (shops, bars, restaurants, cafés) and sights to make it work, and all the walking opportunities you could wish for. After a quick lunch at the 'van, we headed off to explore the town (Kloster, Schloss, Café, not necessarily in that order ;-) ) and were back at the 'van by late afternoon, ready for a BBQ in the increasingly cool evening - the sun dropped behind the hill at 17:30.


A quiet evening in reading and catching up with the world, and plans to walk the next day, weather permitting.


The Tuesday dawned fine and sunny, and having picked up a number of walk leaflets in the Tourist Office the previous day, we sorted out a route that would occupy much of the day. The leaflets were most welcome, as, though the main paths are well signposted, it would be easy to get somewhat lost if you departed from them. Luckily, I have a GPS with German mapping, so I can get officially lost ;-) . A very enjoyable day, with views of Brocken (the highest peak in Northern Germany) for quite a bit of it, and a pause for coffee and cakes at the obligatory, high-level Gasthof before descending back. (As an aside, the local service bus goes to this Gasthof, even though it is a longish uphill dirt road. If one wanted to, one could gain a considerable amount of height by using it to start the walk, all free given the payment of the tourist tax.) Very mixed terrain, with rocky outcrops, contouring tracks, valley waterfalls, and back to the 'van at 15:00 after 9 good miles. After another meal at the 'van sitting (just about) in the sun, we even had enough energy to stroll into town in the evening.








Having enjoyed the day, we decided we'd extend our stay in the morning, provided the weather was compliant. Luckily, it dawned dry but cold, and we walked down into town to pick up some more trail information, and then had a longer day out covering different terrain.


This area is, of course, the old border area between East and West Germany. Brocken, of which we had more views, was a forbidden area; an East German "listening post", and there was a large swathe of "no man's land" either side of the border, which remained largely undeveloped, and is now maintained as a "green corridor". Walking in the hills you get reminders of the history, an amount of our route being on disused green roads reinforced with twin concrete tank tracks.


There was no more immediate reminder of this past than the border post at the turning point of our walk - the Eckertalsperre where the border ran down the middle of the dam, and the post is still extant, signed differently on its two sides. Apparently, the associated generating station was functional throughout, and the staff regularly experienced "difficulties" in access if anything kicked off.








We returned to the 'van at 16:00, having diverted to the Gasthof again for refreshment before descending. A good 12 mile day, and we ate out at a Restaurant just down the road (where it was "Burger Night", and rather better than one might have thought, and also good value). It occurred to us that with little extra effort we could have scaled Brocken and returned, but there is a steam railway that runs right to the top, from Drei Annen Hohne, so we might save the easy option for a later visit.


Having had three nights, time to move on in the morning, with the Stellplatz at Magdeburg, less than 60 miles away, the target.



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A short update for our next stop, Magdeburg, which possibly doesn't do it credit, but it was wet as we set off, and remained so through much of the day, which rather affected the mood.


Apart from being roughly on the circular route I'd originally drawn on the map, there was a slightly more odd reason for wanting to visit Magdeburg. The previous year in New Zealand, we'd encountered, largely by chance, the "Hundertwasser toilets" in Kawakawa. I'd read about them in passing, but hadn't realised they were in Kawakawa, where we pulled off for a coffee break and shopping. They are really fascinating, and entirely bonkers, and must be the most photographed bogs in the world........anyway, the architect, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, has a number of notable buildings around the world, one of which being Die Grüne Zitadelle in Magdeburg, which looked well worth a visit.


We arrived at the Winterhafen Stellplatz, a basic but acceptable pitch within walking distance of the centre,at around lunchtime. The cost was €10 per night, deposited in an envelope, and despite information to the contrary, all other services were free whilst we were there. It was quite busy when we arrived, and was full by evening.


It's set well enough back to avoid much of the road noise, though the weather in the photo doesn't do it justice (and to be fair, it wasn't the most scenic Stellplatz we've used).




We walked into Magdeburg, which, other than a few sights, like the Dom, and Die Grüne Zitadelle, was a largely unexceptional, mid-sized German Town. We explored a bit, but there was a continuous drizzle interspersed with heavier showers, so our activities were a bit curtailed.


We visited Die Grüne Zitadelle first, and it lived up to expectations. The interior in particular was redolent of the NZ toilets (that sounds wrong, but I'm sure you get the gist).






We had coffee and cakes at a café on the ground floor where you could easily believe you had been transported back to the days of the Lyons Corner House (not, of course, that I am old enough to remember!). With it then raining, we sheltered for a while in a modern indoor shopping centre, before venturing out as it dried to investigate the Dom and surroundings, then a very Germanic dinner in a restaurant in the Markt.


Back to the 'van, with the intention of moving on in the morning, which we did, resulting in the sort of serendipity that often happens when we have only loose plans.



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...just as a hint to anyone who is interested. Because of the way the pictures are hosted, they don't download in the same way as those uploaded to the forum site, BUT, they are effectively reduced-size previews of the copy held on the hosting site, and a single click on any photo will load a considerably bigger and better resolution copy than that embedded in the text. (use your browser's "back" facility to get back to the forum page if you do - or instead of the single click, use the browser's "open in new window" option, often a setting on a right click).
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Due to it's guidebook description, Schwerin had always been on the potential itinerary, followed by a short hop up to the Baltic Coast at Wismar. This meant heading almost due North from Magdeburg, and a bit of research had indicated Tangermünde, not much over 40 miles North, might prove a good stop, especially if the weather improved.


....and, sure enough, Friday dawned mainly bright and sunny, so Tangermünde it was. The Stellplatz can best be described as "functional", being a fairly large, dedicated portion of the car park just outside the town (actually, city!) walls. It was, however, well-organised, had a reasonable "ambience" (some of these car-park Stellplätze most definitely don't, and we are choosey), and was moderately busy when we arrived late-morning. At €7 per night (now I believe €8) all-in (incl. electricity and water), it was good value, so we picked our spot, and paid at the parking-ticket machine. (I know I paid by card, and I suspect it might have been card-only - and there was a small discount if you committed to more than one night).






Well, what a delightful place Tangermünde was! A smallish "city", set up and back from the Elbe (presumably because it regularly floods), with an eclectic mix of half-timbered and rather splendid red-brick architecture. Lots of nooks and crannys to explore, a plethora of bars, cafés and shops, and a really pleasant atmosphere. The improved weather helped, but this was a place that we would stopover at again. We simply spent the day wandering round, taking in the atmosphere and architectural delights, (with a couple of café stops, of course), then back to the 'van for dinner, followed by a stroll along the river bank past the "harbour" in the dying sun.


This selection of photos really only scratches the surface of the views.














A grand day. We enjoyed ourselves and liked the place so much that, given the proximity of the Elbe cycleway, and the reasonable forecast for the morrow, we decided we'd probably spend the next day cycling along the river (well, not along the actual river - you know what I mean).



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Robinhood - 2020-01-26 7:07 PM


It occurred to us that with little extra effort we could have scaled Brocken and returned, but there is a steam railway that runs right to the top, from Drei Annen Hohne, so we might save the easy option for a later visit.

Well worth letting the train take the strain as they are lovely engines and the train just trundles along at a leisurely pace allowing plenty of photo ops.


I went up Brocken years ago and the weather down by the station was gloriously sunny and hot though i took a thin jacket with me as i suspected it would be cooler once at the top......BUT what i hadn't expected on reaching the summit the place was shrouded in damn mist and i'd gone mainly to see the former DDR monitoring station! So my photos of that look like a ghostly building covered in mist! The exhibition was very interesting and there is a small cafe/restaurant.

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Bulletguy - 2020-01-27 1:50 PM


I went up Brocken years ago and the weather down by the station was gloriously sunny and hot though i took a thin jacket with me as i suspected it would be cooler once at the top......BUT what i hadn't expected on reaching the summit the place was shrouded in damn mist and i'd gone mainly to see the former DDR monitoring station! So my photos of that look like a ghostly building covered in mist! The exhibition was very interesting and there is a small cafe/restaurant.


Close to the conditions needed to see a Brocken Spectre, often seen from mountain summits peeking out above the mist and named after this mountain.


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Steve928 - 2020-01-27 2:37 PM


Bulletguy - 2020-01-27 1:50 PM


I went up Brocken years ago and the weather down by the station was gloriously sunny and hot though i took a thin jacket with me as i suspected it would be cooler once at the top......BUT what i hadn't expected on reaching the summit the place was shrouded in damn mist and i'd gone mainly to see the former DDR monitoring station! So my photos of that look like a ghostly building covered in mist! The exhibition was very interesting and there is a small cafe/restaurant.


Close to the conditions needed to see a Brocken Spectre, often seen from mountain summits peeking out above the mist and named after this mountain.


Must admit i didn't spot any of those as it was very windy and cold so i didn't hang around very long outside....just fired off a few hopeful shots as i walked to the building for warmth! :-D

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So, Saturday dawned bright yet again, and we signed-up for another night, offloaded the bikes, and set off about 10:00 Northwards to do some of the Elbe Radweg.


This cycleway runs the whole length of the Elbe (we've encountered it very much at the other end, miles away) and is, like most of Germany, well signposted for cycling. There is a downside to that, however, since the route has multiple variations (even taking in either bank), doesn't conform to the riverbank much just here (no adjacent track), and dips off into towns and villages at will. It's all fine, except if you do miss a sign, head back riverwards, and suddenly find yourself on a cul-de-sac (though, being in Germany, that would be a Sackgasse ;-) ). There is an element of retracing one's steps.


We followed the West side of the river 10 miles or so North to Arneburg, where we hoped to find a cafe for a lunchtime snack. Unfortunately, it being Saturday, the bakers were shutting, and the one attractive café we found, in the Burg, was preparing for a local event, and was thus temporarily shut. It's quite unusual for us to fail to find a café on our travels in Germany, but we were beginning to despair of refreshment until we found a hotel, rather tucked away, which came up trumps. (Incidentally, my hot drink of choice is coffee, which though drinkable throughout Germany, is sometimes a little insipid for someone who normally wants at least a double shot. My wife informs me, however, that it is much better than the tea! There's always Bier ;-) ).




Suitably refreshed, we studied the map and decided there wasn't a natural destination further North, but we could get the small ferry here, and head down the other, Eastern side of the river to look at the Abbey/Monastery at Jerichow, before returning to Tangermünde using a bridge. So that's what we did.




Route finding on that side was a little more difficult, with more potential variations, some closures and not a few missing signs, but the Abbey was visible for miles, so the general direction was obvious. It was quite an impressive building, and I believe it is usually open, though there was no sign of any entrance, and we rather got sidetracked by the excellent (and busy, I wonder why?) café adjacent.






Having been further refreshed we headed back to the 'van, arriving at 16:00 35 miles to the good, and had a short rest before heading out to the Hotel Post in town for dinner.


It was Spargel season all around, and everyone was offering special Spargel menus, or at least incorporating it (white asparagus) into offerings in almost any form you could think of. Yes, that in the breadcrumbs is deep-fried asparagus...




An evening stroll around town and along the river followed, cloudless and still, then back to the 'van for a second quiet night.




Off to Schwerin in the morning to see if it lived up to its write-up.




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Very nice to see the above. What kind of suspension had these three wheelers? Did they have a natural frequency of around 1-1.5 Hz of the sprung Mass system. If above it will result in a harsher drive. I just concluded a study on the latest boeing landing landing gear. Oleo pneumatic like my former citroen DS. :-D
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Hopefully by now, Germany (or possibly Australia ;-) ) is well established with you as an excellent motorhoming destination (and even those that did already acknowledge that might have picked up some good places to visit ;-)).


The Sunday morning dawned bright, and it was even a little warmer, so after a quick shop in town, we left Tangermünde some time after 10:00, heading for Schwerin, a journey just under 100 miles. There was an apparent choice of places to stop, but having eliminated the less than attractive options, and those too far out, we settled on "Hanger 19":




...which, at €25 per night was a step up on what we had paid so far - that's not a complaint, simply a fact - we pay what the asking price is for somewhere we've actively chosen.


As it happens, it was an excellent choice, being walkable into the town centre (15 minutes), with a lakeside location and really excellent full-facilities (shower, toilets, kitchen, electricity, water all included in the price). When research shows that a spot in the multi-use car park at the other end of town is €16 overnight, then it puts the whole thing in perspective.




We really liked it here. Having arrived at around 12:00, and chosen one of the few non-reserved pitches (and one of the more level ones, some most certainly weren't), we booked in at reception and paid by card.


Schwerin is surrounded by lakes, but its iconic sight is the Schloss/Palace (which is now the seat of the Regional Government) and it really is stunning. We'd caught a glimpse driving in, but after a quick snack set off out to explore, with the Schloss and its gardens the initial target. You can wander round a very restricted bit of the building, but the gardens (both the immediate external area and the surrounding parkland), are open and free to visit. The whole provides a magnificent spectacle, and the Schloss is photogenic from all angles (despite an element of building work). Warm and sunny, it made for an enjoyable hour or so.








Having exhausted that, we wandered off into the Old Town, checking out the architecture and ending up at a bar overlooking the waters of the Pfaffenteich, where it was warm enough to merit a Bier. (Mind you, when is it not?). Then a pleasant stroll round the Pfaffenteich, taking in the grand architecture, back through the Old Town and to the 'van, in time for a BBQ, and to watch the sun go down over the lake.






Not unexpectedly, a quiet night, and the following morning was cool, with a mist on the lake.


We didn't feel much like moving on, and though the town was attractive, we fancied a break from that, so out with the bikes again. We set off at 10:00 to do the round of the larger lake to the North (The Schweriner Außensee) on cycle tracks that appeared on info boards, and were also signposted. The weather improved throughout the day, and it was a pleasant ride, though not photogenic enough to take any photos of note. Surprisingly, it was another day where we struggled to find lunchtime refreshment until we were lucky enough to hit a much-needed small café on the main road through Bad Kleinen. We were back at the 'van just after 14:00 and 31 miles.


After a rest, and still sunny, we set off into town and dinner (and beer) at the Altstadtbrauhaus "Zum Stadtkrug". The waiter noted we were speaking English to each other, and asked where we were from. On being told he commented that they see hardly any British vistors in the area (which, when we thought about it didn't surprise us quite as much as it might). We returned to the 'van just ahead of the rain at 20:00, for another quiet night.


Time to move in the morning, with a short hop North towards the coast.



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Wismar, 20 miles or so North, gets a bit of a write-up in the guidebooks, and is technically on the coast (though it is really on an inlet). So we set off some time after 09:00 with on-and-off rain.


The Stellplatz here is close to the town-centre, but in a mildly industrial area (nothing to be unduly concerned about).




Given the short distance, we arrived at 10:00, and the place was busy, not only with departures, but also arrivals! Pitches are set out in a "loop", and I drove in following the anti-clockwise continental roundabout convention to where the information, payment and other facilities were just inside. I was immediately berated by a man who I took to be the Platzwart for going the wrong-way round the one-way system, and he pointed out a one-way sign at the entrance pointing the other (counter-intuitive) way (it was, however, entirely obscured by someone who had decided to park a very-large tag-axle van right in the entrance!). To a torrent containing the words "Britischer" and a few German swear words even I didn't recognise, I reversed and pulled in to park on the other arm of the loop. I was then very amused to see the next two 'vans, both German, repeat the same manouevre. The Platzwart's complexion was puce!


Given how busy things were, we didn't hang about but dropped into one of the few (then) available spaces. I have a note that the fee was €12 per night (plus elec and water) but the website says (slightly) differently. I do remember paying by coin, and a good few of them since the maximum value was €2. Toilets and showers (chargeable) are also available if you pay a key deposit.


The greyness inhibited any decent photos of the Stellplatz, so the website will have to do.


It was largely dry as we set out into town (but very misty, with the clouds scraping the church towers). The weather could have affected our impressions of Wismar, but actually, though a bit of sun would have improved things we very much liked the place. Having a harbour always helps, I think. We had a day simply wandering around, taking in the architecture and the churches, dipping into a café, and after returning to the 'van, out for an evening meal at the Brauerei pictured. It isn't a large place, but the time passed with little effort, and (as is our experience of Stellplätze) we had another quiet night, though the place was full and turning people away.












Oh, and I quite fancied living at 123 ABC Strasse; that would confuse the postman ;-) .




Weather forecast for the morning wasn't good, and Wismar being a small place we thought we'd done it justice in what was almost a full day, so we planned to move on.



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Well, more than halfway through the holiday (and this report ; thank goodness, I hear you say), and now slightly North of Hamburg, which was one of our prime targets, it remained to go only slightly further North and then turn and start our rather more rapid return back to the UK.


We'd stayed at both Schleswig and Lübeck some years before, and liked both, so we decided that we would see whether Eckernförde, between the two, was as attractive. This was a drive of around 100 miles, and it had what looked like a decent Stellplatz within walking distance. So, with a wet start, but drying, cloudy weather ahead, we set out.


The Stellplatz at Eckernförde was as good as, if not better than, expected. It was moderately busy when we arrived, and was controlled by a barrier system where you entered having taken a ticket (actually a smart card, controlling all the facilities as well), and paid (the requisite fee) after exiting (since the card is retained while paying. I'm also pretty sure it took a deposit on entry, and the payment was definitely by card-only). Electricity was chargeable, but I recall that, despite info to the contrary, water was free when we were there (and given there was running water in all the facilities, then this makes sense). With tourist taxes, we paid €20 per night, plus electricity (now €21?) but, given the truly excellent facilities (free use of a large block of immaculately kept showers, toilets, and a huge, well-kept kitchen) and free wifi, it was decent value. Conveniently, there was also a large REWE supermarket just across from the entrance.






Having got ourselves settled, we trundled off for our usual explore. Eckernförde was a variance, the town was OK, but it was most attractive for its seafront (complete with the iconic beach chairs/shelters), and its busy and attractive harbour (and there is a large Naval base across the bay). It didn't stop us enjoying the culinary delights of town, however. The weather was slowly improving, and by late afternoon it was sunny. We returned from our travels to the 'van via the REWE, and took advantage of the sun to have a BBQ meal outside. The light was then so attractive, we set off for a further evening walk along the seafront and round the harbour.












Another quiet night, and the following morning was also bright, so it was time for the bikes again. We decided to follow a bike track, largely described in outline, skirting the lakes to the North West of the Stellplatze, as far as the ferry over the Schlei (a long sea-inlet) at Missunde, before returning by a different route. Despite a few unintended detours, it was a good day out at 33 miles via a fairly tortuous route, and it was another where we despaired of getting refreshment. We considered catching the ferry to see if there was anything the other side, but resisted, and finally found an excellent café in the stylishly re-used barracks at Carlshõhe, well on our way back, where we relaxed in a beautifully sunny corner.




Early evening BBQ at the 'van again, making the best of the sun, and we resisted the temptation for a later evening walk (which is shorthand for "we were knackered").


With days running out, we needed to move on the next day, but we were reluctant to lose the weather, so a little planning was in order.



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