dialler9833 Posted May 21, 2021 Author Share Posted May 21, 2021 An update on this issue, which is still outstanding and we're away for half term next week, it looks like without a working fridge! I removed the pcb and sent it off for repair via ebay. It came back as 'repaired' though I don't know what the fault is, but am assured it was repaired. I think it could be that the pcb was working anyway but in order to claim the full fee, the business has said it has been repaired. I have no way of knowing this, so I accept it as having been repaired. The fix is under warranty, so I can send it back again if need be. However, the fridge selector is dead as before. As before there is the correct voltage coming to the unit. My only other thought is that the current isn't enough, ie. something wrong with the leisure battery. Could this be the case? If so, how do I know what the correct current on the leisure battery should be? Regarding the rest of the habitation area, the rest of the electrics are fine, though the hob igniter hasn't worked for around a year, don't know if that's related. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted May 21, 2021 Share Posted May 21, 2021 dialler9833 - 2021-05-21 1:22 PM ...My only other thought is that the current isn't enough, ie. something wrong with the leisure battery. Could this be the case? If so, how do I know what the correct current on the leisure battery should be?... A simple check would be to turn on something fairly significant that you know is supplied with 12V power by the leisure-battery (switching on all the interior 12V living-area lights should be adequate) and then use a multimeter to take a voltage reading at the leisure-battery’s terminals. The table attached below shows ‘state of charge’ voltages and should give you an idea of whether the leisure-battery is at fault. (Obviously, if you do this, the motorhome MUST NOT be connected to a 230V power-supply - otherwise the reading will just be the voltage that the battery-charger is outputting.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dialler9833 Posted June 15, 2021 Author Share Posted June 15, 2021 Right The latest in this never-ending saga. We sent the fridge PCB off to be looked at, it came back as 'repaired'. But still no joy when I refitted it. The fix was under warranty, but we were off to cornwall for a week. During that week I tried the fridge selector out of forlorn hope, of course it never worked. Returned after a great trip, what amazing weather, and left the van for a week (kids, etc.), before summoning the energy to remove the pcb again to get it looked at again. Because i couldn't help myself I tried the select again and it was working! But not well. The gas ignition managed to spark, just (I could only just hear it clicking), though I DID manage to get the gas to ignite. I left it on, came back an hour later and the fridge has turned itself off and the selector is dead, once more... So, to me, this looks VERY much like a dead battery issue, ie. a small battery somewhere that feeds the input. Having been left for a couple of weeks, the battery recharged itself just enough to work the selector again. This was mentioned above somewhere, but there is no battery near or about the pcb itself. But if that's the case, why is there a good strong 12V feed coming into the unit, what would it be for? Please read the whole thread before commenting, because you will see that - there is a voltage coming into the pcb - the leisure AND cab batteries are both good Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 I have just looked through the wiring diagrams and instructions I linked to above and can find no reference to any 'external' battery other then the starter and leisure batteries, and like you have surmised, this really does sound like a flat battery problem. Can you change the power source via the main control panel from the leisure battery to the starter battery? If so does the problem still exist? At the rear of the fridge can you measure the voltage both with and without the fridge turned on, possibly get a helper to turn it on and off. If it is not a flat battery then I am suspecting a poor or corroded connection or chassis connection which is failing under load. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 Jim, As you will appreciate I have read at least the significant sections of this thread. I have added a few comments. I believe that you have fallen foul of the high sensitivity of modern multimeters, which draw very little current when measuring voltages, and consequently will give an acceptable reading when there is a considerable resistance in the circuit to the meter. 27/04/21 "I've taken of the control facia and checked the voltage on the permanent DC connection and it's fine." But was that an open circuit reading with the fridge off, or an on load reading with the fridge on? "Just a thought. Could it be that the polarity has somehow been reversed on the permanent DC connection? The service engineer for the MOT etc (not done at a camper shop) has accidentally pulled out plug / wire somewhere and put it back the wrong way round?" I cannot envisage any reason for a TECHNICIAN carrying out an MOT examination, to be disconnecting any electrical equipment. 28/04/21 "It's a bit fiddly, but I can't find any voltages coming through the PCB with the fridge turned on. I'll check again tomorrow. But looks like perhaps the selector itself is faulty." As Keith has already suggested, it looks like the supply is faulty. 05/05/21 "Does the permanent input DC voltage (to work the PCB) come from the cab battery or the leisure battery, by default? " I fully agree with Keith. It would be most unusual and problematic, for the permanent supply to be taken from the starter battery. 21/05/21 "However, the fridge selector is dead as before. As before there is the correct voltage coming to the unit. My only other thought is that the current isn't enough, ie. something wrong with the leisure battery. Could this be the case? If so, how do I know what the correct current on the leisure battery should be?" Derek suggested some simple tests, to which you do not seem to have responded? However as other habitation electrics are OK, it is unlikely to be a battery problem. 15/06/21 Please read the whole thread before commenting, because you will see that - there is a voltage coming into the pcb - the leisure AND cab batteries are both good. Any thoughts?" Yes, I support Keith's diagnosis of a high resistance connection in the permanent supply to the fridge. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dialler9833 Posted June 16, 2021 Author Share Posted June 16, 2021 Alan & Keith Thank you so much for your detailed responses. I'm going to start again looking at this issue, and will work through your comments and report back. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mik apache Posted December 29, 2022 Share Posted December 29, 2022 Hi did you fix your problem? We've just came away and got the same problem was fine 2 weeks which is the last time it got used . Cheers Mik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted December 29, 2022 Share Posted December 29, 2022 Hi Mik and welcome to the forum, Unfortunately Jim (dialler9833) never came back and told us what his problem was so the same suggestions as were made to him must apply to you but please come back and tell us if (when!) you fix your problem. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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