TYRE PUMP

[ALANSUE]

Hi. Please could someone suggest/recommend a 12v tyre pump for my Autotrail motor home. Possibly one you own and have tried it for yourself. The tyres need to be at 80 PSI. I have tried to £15 pumps and one costing £40 but they just fizzle out at 40/50 PSI. Thanks. Alan

 

 

[Keithl]

The Ring RAC900 has been recommended many times on here and I carry one for emergency use but haven't actually had to use it yet as I check my tyres at home with a 230 V compressor...

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000W08QZY/

 

Keith.

[BruceM]

Not an answer to your question but unless physical limitations require the use of a 12V pump if you just want a pump to top up your tyres it’s worth considering a foot pump. Reliable, quick and easy to use, little weight and will cope with the higher pressure a motorhome requires. If on the other hand you’re planning to pump up a completely deflated tyre then finding a 12V pump that doesn’t burn out will require more costly expenditure along the lines of Keith's recommendation.

[Derek Uzzell]

The following "Tyre Inflation - Advice please” forum discussion initially ran from August 2011 to November 2011 (so some of the links in that part of the thread may no longer work or may be out-of-date)

 

https://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Tyre-Inflation-Advice-please/24716/

 

The discussion was resurrected in February 2021 (see msnelling’s one-off enquiry in the penultimate posting of the thread’s first page) and it will be seen from my comments on the thread’s second page that (rather than a RAC900 pump) I eventually purchased a T-Max BA2641 12V pump that currently retails at around £75. (example advert here)

 

https://tinyurl.com/zyp8rn

 

[Brian Kirby]

Have a look also at this 2014 "Out and About Live" string on tyre inflators https://tinyurl.com/z3m3y4se

 

As in that string, I bought a 230V portable compressor under the brand name Alka-Heyner in 2014. If the same business is still trading under the same name a "Google" search should find them, otherwise searches under Alka-Heyner or Heyner-Alka should pull up some alternative sources. It came in a neat case, is easily carried, and weighs about 2kg.

 

I use mine regularly for checking and adjusting the tyre pressures on our van. It is now 7 years old and shows no sign of its age or suffering from use. I use the pump in this way because motorhome tyre inflation pressures exceed those reliably available at filling stations.

 

I went for the 230V version because its performance is not dependent on the state of the starter battery and, I reasoned, the 230V motor would be more sturdy. As I keep the van at home, and we usually use camp sites with EHU, 230V power is readily available.

 

If thinking of catering for a roadside flat, then I think the bigger problem would be fixing the flat, rather than re-inflating the tyre after repair. Anything more dramatic, such as a blow out while driving, would be liable to involve irreparable damage to the tyre, requiring replacement, so an inflator of whatever type would be irrelevant. At least, that was my reasoning. So far, so good! :-D

[DEL]

Second vote for the T-Max, quality piece of kit. I have been through 3 of the cheap ones but I think this one will last. Maybe a tad heavy if you plan to carry it around with you but first rate for at home use.

[Ocsid]

BruceM - 2021-06-28 6:27 PM

 

Not an answer to your question but unless physical limitations require the use of a 12V pump if you just want a pump to top up your tyres it’s worth considering a foot pump. Reliable, quick and easy to use, little weight and will cope with the higher pressure a motorhome requires. If on the other hand you’re planning to pump up a completely deflated tyre then finding a 12V pump that doesn’t burn out will require more costly expenditure along the lines of Keith's recommendation.

I am another that carries a non-electrical solution, despite having the excellent RAC900 at home for more routine use, but my solution is a quality cycle track pump, specifically, a Joe Blow Sport 2.

 

This is the near identical current incarnation of the product:

 

https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-maintenance/bike-pumps/topeak-joe-blow-sport-iii-545399.html

 

It is designed for achieving way higher pressures, 160 psi, than the majority of car "foot pumps" and exploits the use of the whole body.

Clearly any manual solution is limited in what they can achieve, but for topping up the odd few psi at our very high-pressure level, these are very suitable. You are never going to directly reseat a tyre on the rim with it or any DIY portable inflator.

[Muswell]

Another vote for a cycle track pump, mine's a Blackburn. It helps keep you fit too.

[Albertslad]

Hello Alan&Sue, you may still need a decent tyre inflator, but 80psi sounds rather high to me.

I’ve heard that mh manufacturers have a tendency to specify high pressures, but If you know your axle weights, and consult the specific tyre manufacturer, I would expect you to find that a significantly lower tyre pressure is recommended.

It might help you to hang on to your fillings for a bit longer, particularly in these Covid limited dental appointments, and it will certainly produce a more comfortable ride.

Regards

Alanb/albertslad

[Derek Uzzell]

Alan owns an Auto-Trail Dakota motorhome. Other than the vehicle being at least 7 years old, I don’t know its vintage, but the tyre pressures advised by Fiat and Auto-Trail will definitely include a figure of 80psi/5.5bar.

 

Even if weighing the motorhome suggests that tyre pressures lower than 80psi might be used with safety, the Dakota is still a large vehicle and it’s to be expected that at least 70psi would be needed for the rear tyres. So if Alan still wants to buy a 12V pump, that pump will still need to be capable of reliably coping with tyre pressures well above those used with cars.

 

(It’s also recommended that, if a motorhome is to remain static for an extended period, its tyre are inflated to their maximum design pressure.)

[HymerVan]

BruceM - 2021-06-28 6:27 PM

 

Not an answer to your question but unless physical limitations require the use of a 12V pump if you just want a pump to top up your tyres it’s worth considering a foot pump. Reliable, quick and easy to use, little weight and will cope with the higher pressure a motorhome requires. If on the other hand you’re planning to pump up a completely deflated tyre then finding a 12V pump that doesn’t burn out will require more costly expenditure along the lines of Keith's recommendation.

As has been remarked by others forecourt pumps just won't cope with pressures around 80psi. So my solution was to buy a small compressor for around £100 which I keep in my garage. This allows me to top up the van tyres as well as my car (and some other peoples cars as well).

On the move I bought a basic foot pump in 2003 and after 18 years it is still going strong and part of my tool kit. A foot pump will fully inflate to 80 psi from flat reliably but it takes time and physical effort. It won't burn out or fail unlike a 12 volt compressor ! Of course if you check pressures regularly you are only talking about topping up the pressure.

[rajohno]

I use a Michelin pump, bought in Halfords. The auto start and cut out feature failed, should of returned it but I wired in a manual switch instead. it is very quick to inflate to 70psi from virtually 0 and very quiet to use and the digital readout matches my tyre pressure gauges so i get constant similar pressure readings.

https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-equipment/tyre-inflators-and-pressure-gauges/michelin-programmable-superfast-4x4%2Fsuv-digital-tyre-inflator-847159.html

[costaexpress]

I bit the bullet and splashed out on a cordless RTC 6000. Best thing I ever did, no wires, no worrying about connecting to mains or 12v except for recharging every so often, can move it around the van, store it easily and it even has a light in case I need to pump up in the dark. Expensive, however, for me, worth it

[flyboyprowler]

Keithl - 2021-06-28 6:11 PM

 

The Ring RAC900 has been recommended many times on here and I carry one for emergency use but haven't actually had to use it yet as I check my tyres at home with a 230 V compressor...

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000W08QZY/

 

Keith.

Another vote for the RAC900. Years old and still going strong!

Ainsley

[ALANSUE]

THANKS!! You have all been very helpful. I will get back once i have made a purchase. Alan

[Grumpyman]

As the owner of a Auto-Trail I use a Ring compressor pump reaches 80 PSI no problem.

[simian]

Ocsid - 2021-06-29 7:22 AM

 

BruceM - 2021-06-28 6:27 PM

 

Not an answer to your question but unless physical limitations require the use of a 12V pump if you just want a pump to top up your tyres it’s worth considering a foot pump. Reliable, quick and easy to use, little weight and will cope with the higher pressure a motorhome requires. If on the other hand you’re planning to pump up a completely deflated tyre then finding a 12V pump that doesn’t burn out will require more costly expenditure along the lines of Keith's recommendation.

I am another that carries a non-electrical solution, despite having the excellent RAC900 at home for more routine use, but my solution is a quality cycle track pump, specifically, a Joe Blow Sport 2.

 

This is the near identical current incarnation of the product:

 

https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-maintenance/bike-pumps/topeak-joe-blow-sport-iii-545399.html

 

It is designed for achieving way higher pressures, 160 psi, than the majority of car "foot pumps" and exploits the use of the whole body.

Clearly any manual solution is limited in what they can achieve, but for topping up the odd few psi at our very high-pressure level, these are very suitable. You are never going to directly reseat a tyre on the rim with it or any DIY portable inflator.

Of late I change my own tyres, be it motorhome, car, or motor bike. A ratchet strap cinched around circumference

the deflated tyre, 12v pump attached and a bit of bouncing of the tyre to partially seat the rim. I've yet to

be defeated (dozen or so tyres). Lubricating between the tyre bead and rim seating seems to be the critical factor.

[Derek Uzzell]

What do you do about rebalancing the wheels afterwards?

 

(I used to change ‘tubed’ motorbike tyres fitted to wire-spoked wheels and then rebalance the wheel with weights clipped to the spokes, but balancing a car or motorhome wheel without suitable equipment would be a non-starter.)

[simian]

Derek Uzzell - 2021-07-24 8:17 AM

 

What do you do about rebalancing the wheels afterwards?

 

(I used to change ‘tubed’ motorbike tyres fitted to wire-spoked wheels and then rebalance the wheel with weights clipped to the spokes, but balancing a car or motorhome wheel without suitable equipment would be a non-starter.)

I don't possess a dynamic wheel balancer, so it's static balancing only. Results are generally good, ie no shimmy

or appreciable wandering. The car tyres I have balanced at a tyre fitters I tell them I self fitted the tyres.

 

At the risk of being accused of waffling on here goes LoL;

 

The motor bike wheels I balance by replacing the axle bolts and suspend between a pair of axle stands on

checked level surface, Rotate and gently spin the wheel to find the heavy spot, add plasticine counter weighting

until the wheel remains static in any position. Finally add self adhesive sheet lead weighting mid rim

centrifical force keeps it positioned. No hammered in rim edge weights liable to let out air certainly & will certainly be

weighted off axial centreline.

 

The van wheels I balance by using the bolt holes to fit a steel plate with exact dead centre, a drilled hole

provides a pivot point, an oversized ball bearing between this and a flat steel base plate add weights to the

rim until perfectly level as measured with a spirit level. Some bods don't balance light truck wheels and heavier

at all unless they find obvious negative symptoms.

 

I might add I'm retired, a challenge and spare time. I never bothered with self tyre fitting when working.