pepe63 Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Good morning all. Although our previous usage didn't require us to have one, as we are now taking our Grandaughter with us more often, we have just bought a cheapie, stand alone solar panel. (with controller attached to rear of panel? something I need to "weather-proof" with a dectachable cover). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232367976450?epid=20032261061&itmmeta=01J2EN9VP2597GQRPC8NG60KK3&hash=item361a35f002:g:fCMAAOSwLHBkXOB0 The main thing is that lead it came with is woefully short (I knew it was going to be) and I would like some advice/thoughts on which way to proceed re; the plug/socket connectors/cable etc? Currently it just has "bare" grey Anderson plug/socket (with no dust/weather sleeves) and although I have several pairs of crimping pliers already, I don't have anything for Anderson type connectors? (and don't really want to buy a set just for a one-off job?) So..can they be crimped without their "special" tool?..or should I just ditch the existing anderson plug/socket and go for something not requiring a specific tool, maybe something that's easily availble at automotive counters? and is relatively inexpensive? (totting up some made-up leads that I have seen, along with the additional "bits" needed to make up the the battery patch lead(s), some would be costing almost as much the panel? 😁 ) Just to add, the plugs/sockets will end up under a cover or within the van. Thanks for your thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snail Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Visit a diy store for something like used for lawn mowers or such like where you can just put wires in like a 13camp plug, bound to be loads of stuff on their electric shelves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 The portable panel I bought years ago came equipped with a DIN plug, and was supplied with a surface mount DIN socket. The latter was mounted permanently just inside a locker door and wired to the batteries. In use the leads were fed past the door seal and plugged in. (A subsequent remount in another 'van with the battery under the driver's seat used a similar method, with the leads again fed through the door seal). Parts easily obtainable, and come as a screw-fit (not crimp or solder) if you so chose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63 Posted July 14 Author Share Posted July 14 Thank you chaps.. That all sounds very encouraging. (I just wanted to ask/check before I proceeeded, just to make sure that I wasn't missing something obvious or that I HAD to be using a given type of connector etc..) Mind you, the weather being as it is, I might end up fixing legs to it and just using it as a bl**dy camping table! 😀 Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve928 Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 3 hours ago, pepe63 said: Currently it just has "bare" grey Anderson plug/socket (with no dust/weather sleeves) and although I have several pairs of crimping pliers already, I don't have anything for Anderson type connectors? (and don't really want to buy a set just for a one-off job?) So..can they be crimped without their "special" tool?..or should I just ditch the existing anderson plug/socket and go for something not requiring a specific tool, maybe something that's easily availble at automotive counters? and is relatively inexpensive? I use a lot of Anderson connectors but solder rather than crimp them: - hold the connector blade in a vice with the cable 'cup' upwards - heat it with a blowtorch and feed in electrical solder until the cup is about half full - then simply dip the bare wire end into the molten solder and hold central until the solder solidifies. I think I found this method on Youtube and it works perfectly for me with various gauges of cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david lloyd Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 58 minutes ago, pepe63 said: Thank you chaps.. That all sounds very encouraging. (I just wanted to ask/check before I proceeeded, just to make sure that I wasn't missing something obvious or that I HAD to be using a given type of connector etc..) Mind you, the weather being as it is, I might end up fixing legs to it and just using it as a bl**dy camping table! 😀 Thanks again. Instead of legs fit deeper sides and get a paddle! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63 Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 (edited) hello again.. Sorry to bring this back up..but with life getting in the way, as it does,I've only just got around to actually "doing" it.. Right, so an off-the -shelf fused *Anderson plug/lead is now connected up to the leisure battery (* I decided to stick with the Anderson plugs in the end, as I was able to borrow a pair of crimpers), and a Seaflo cable hatch is fitted through and sealed in the floor (adjacent to the leisure battery). So next,the slightly longer cable..? I was going to just use an old 2.5mm ehu lead, cut to 5m-ish? (the kit has the controller mounted on the panel, fused and then there's the fuse at the battery end, both 10A) Does this cable sound okay or is it a definite no-no? I'm thinking more about safety, rather than what is "optimum" for performance etc (I have had a lenghty look online but many of the "discussions" that I have come across turn very "techy" very quickly and also very argumentative!? ) Thank you for any "real world" help you can give Edited July 22 by pepe63 Spelling(well some of it?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 Hi Pepe, I have just purchased a Renogy free standing 100 Watt solar panel and 10 Amp charge controller so very similar to yours! the big difference is I have mounted the controller near the leisure battery rather than on the back of the panels. The instructions for the controller have a table of current versus wire size... So for 10 Amps you only need 16AWG which is actually 1.5 mm^2 wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puddlejumper Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 It depends on how much power your panel produces to be honest but I would suggest a minimum of 4mm. You can buy special solar cable but it’s not really required unless your going for a permanent set up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 2.5mm² will be fine for your purpose. Well capable of carrying much more than the 10A fuse rating (and the panel/controller is unlikely to produce much more than 5A at full output anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63 Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 Thank you all for that..! That advice is a lot clearer than some I was reading online (The *cough* "cabling" on the panels seem to be little more than glorified bell-wire anyway? My old ehu lead looks like jump leads in comparison! 😀 ) Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 20 minutes ago, pepe63 said: (The *cough* "cabling" on the panels seem to be little more than glorified bell-wire anyway? My old ehu lead looks like jump leads in comparison! 😀 ) If I was you I would ditch the 'bell wire' and rewire entirely with your 2.5 mm^2 cable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 I'd interpreted that that (wiring from the controller) was what was being proposed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63 Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 (edited) Perhaps I was being a little unkind with the "bell wire" remark 😄 It was really only the the short section, leading from the controller to their Anderson plug, that looked a bit *weedy (*there I go again!), probably made to look worse with them being seperate black and red wires, just dangling about..but I have swapped that bit out as well, adding additional heat shrink and end bungs whilst I was at it.. RE: Anderson fittings. I'll admit that I didn't really get on with the simple (cheap?) crimping pliers that I borrowed? They were awkward to use (better when held/mounted in a vice) and I was expecting them to produce a neater crimp? These seemed to want to mash/deform the connectors as much as anything? (possibly I'd not got the exact size connectors for the cable?).But the finished crimps are really solid though, and they aren't going anywhere and with red/black heat shrink and end plugs/bungs, the finished plugs look the part. Thanks again all. Edited July 22 by pepe63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 1 hour ago, pepe63 said: But the finished crimps are really solid though, and they aren't going anywhere and with red/black heat shrink and end plugs/bungs, the finished plugs look the part. Photo or it didn't happen 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63 Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 Hope this works Keith? (for some reason it takes me 2-3 attempts just to log in with this new forum, let alone load a photo?). I know the black heat shrink is slightly uneven, length-wise but it doesn't look that bad in real life. I may "fashion" something that picks up on the plug holes, that the flex can be secured/cable tied to? (the "T" handles would do it, but may be a bit OTT?) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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