Alanb

This sounds as though the relays could be split charge and fridge relays. This would explain the fuse rating. If a 3 way fridge draws about 15A when travelling, then it does not leave much to charge a depleted habitation battery. The popular CBE 12V systems suggest a fuse rated at up to 50A in the connections to the habitation and starter batteries. However while cable sizes need to be suitable, even 6.0 sq mm thinwall cable could carry this current. The rating the split charge relay would also need to be considered before increasing the size of fuse. Alan

Probably due to other demands on my time, I seem to have missed this thread. My IH Tio R PVC is currently fitted with with original CBE PC200, DS520, and CB516, to which I have grafted in a CTEK D250S. The batteries are 2 off XD27 dual pupose FLA from ABS, who claim 105Ah, but I supect that is at the C100 rate, so perhaps 95Ah at C20. As Brian has stated the early CB516 model, did not offer an AGM charging profile. This would only be significant if using EHU for long periods, and this is not the proposed useage pattern. The available mounting space for a B2B is rather restrricted in a 5.6m PVC, and choice of the D250S was made several years ago, when fewer models of B2B were available. The DS250 is at the bottom end of the power range, with an output rating of 20A. In order for a B2B to function, it is necessary for any existing split charge function to be disabled. If this is done by removing or otherwise disabling the split charge relay, the the greater part of the output of the D3250S(E) will be consumed by the 3 way fridge 12V element. My solution was to add an additional changeover relay between the B1 +ve terminal of my DS520 (cf DS300) and the starter (B1) connection, with the normally open contact (NO or 87) connected to the fridge via an inline fuse. The relay coil is operated by the DS520 simulated D+ output, but the former fridge output would suffice with down rated fuse. Connecting terminal 87a (NC contact) of the relay to the DSxxx B1+ve terminal retains the starter battery maintenance facility when on EHU. For the new fridge relay, I used a micro automotive C/O relay rated at 25A. To summarise, my advice is to proceed as originally proposed, but with my fridge relay suggestion incorporated. You would then have the benefit of improved habitation (B2) battery charging from the alternator. However if the OP is still interested in selling his CTEK D250SE, then I may well be interested as a possible upgrade. He is welcome to PM me in this context if he wishes. Alan

The fact that the awning extends indicates that the motor is functional. Retracting the awning will presumably take more power, hence any poor connections will have a more detrimental effect. I do not have an electrically operated awning, as it would be too much complication for a extremely rarely used item. However I assume that the control system will be similar to that used by electrically operated steps. This means that some contacts in the control switch will only be used when retracting the awning. My advice would be to carefully check the control switch and wiring, before considering changing the motor unit. Alan

I was puzzled by the title. My PVC has 13A socket outlets on both sides at the front for convenience, and another couple towards the rear. However on reading the thread all became clear. The OP is confused as to correct electrical terminology. The EHU inlet mounted on a MH is a plug, as it has pins, whereas the end of the EHU lead which connects to the MH is a trailing socket. We are all probably guilty of loosely using the phrase "Plug it in."., Also with over 30 years of MH experience I too have not previously encounterd the term "social side". Alan

May I correct my statement above. On checking my handbook, I find the the 2.8jtd Power engine version, 8143n, was available as an option on versions other than the Maxi. The 8143n is however much less common then the 8143s (127hp). The turbo vanes on the 8143n are vacuum controlled via a modulating valve.

AFAIK, the higher powered 8143n engine was only fitted to the Ducato Maxi, so which engine/turbo should be easy to resolve. I have recntly seen the phrase "fire the parts cannon" used to describe this process. The owner picks up the tab. Alan

Hi, First please what model of Ducato? x230, or x244. To confirm check first three numbers of VIN, either on vehicle or on V5C. eg, ZFA230..... The x230 only has a 3pin (2 wire) diagnostic port near the air filter, while the x244 has a standard OBD2 port near the steering column. It would also help to know whether the engine is fitted with an EGR system, as it seems that while it was presumably an option, many 2.8jtds are not fitted with this feature. The x230 requires an adapter lead for its OBD port, which many garages may not have. Keith has mentioned Multiecuscan, which is popular in the Fiat community. This is computer software, and requires a Windows computer. I think that a free basic version is available. The company "Gendan" is highly regarded for supply and advice, and should be able to supply the adapter cable for the x230, if required. Tight injector cables are a known problem with the earlier 2.8jtd installations, but I would expect these to cause general rough running. The turbo on the 2.8jtd is simply controlled to a maximum boost pressure via the wastegate. It is not unknown for the wastegate linkage to fracture. There are other possibilities, but may I echo Keith's suggestion, that a reading of the stored fault codes is essential. Alan

The installation appears to be similar to that in our 2006 IH TioR. Soon after our purchase, we discovered water spreading from under the toilet floor. The vehicle was returned to IH, who are relatively local. The vehicle was returned with two new features. These were a circular inspection hatch in the panel below the wash basin with an estimated 150mm diameter hole, and a second 100mm inspection hole in the dividing wall, which is disguised as a ventilator. It also seems that the whole wash basin unit may have been removed, as the finish of the white silicone sealant was not to the original standard. Alan

When in 1991we made our first trip of over 100 miles in our then new Talbot Express 2.5TD Pilote R390, it developed a whining noise. I traced the noise to a large crack next to an exhaust flange weld, at the turbo output. Possibly something to eliminate, but I doubt that the dismantled front end on pabs's vehicle will help any checks for a similar fault.

Hi, Welcome to the forum. I have only just noticed your post, and as the hour is late, I will try to be brief. The choice of shunt location should be made to obtain the most convenient route for the monitor cable, but with the NASA system mounting the shunt close to the electroblock may require modifications to the monitor positive supply, which should be connected to habitation battery positive via a low current inline fuse. No matter where you wish to locate your shunt, electrically it must be connected to the habitation battery negative only, at one end. The other end of the shunt should be connected directly to the electroblock and to the starter battery negative, or chassis. If the shunt is to be located close to the electroblock, disconnect the habitation battery negative cable from the electroblock, and connect to the shunt. Add new short linking cable from the other end of the shunt to the vacated position on the electroblock. Alternatively if you wish to fit the shunt close to the battery (some kits are designed for this), disconnect the habitation battery negative, and connect cable to the shunt. Add new short cable between battery negative and shunt. I have only recently fitted a NASA Compact monitor and shunt to my PVC, using a home made cable assembly. If my explanation is not clear please ask for clarification. Brief????? Phew!!!! Alan

The symptoms could be due to fuel starvation. Presumably the fuel filter is OK, but I have read reports of the strainer in the fuel tank becoming partially blocked. As I have a 2006jtd, I was interested in the short injector lead problem mentioned by Robinhood. I was aware of this fault, but I understood that Fiat had corrected it prior to 2006. I cannot understand why it would show up when starting, also I would expect rough running. As an insurance, when I had the engine cover removed for a cambelt change, I loosened the cable clamp, and managed to pull the cable towards the engine by a small amount (1 or 2mm), but of course it could work back again.

You state that the switches are "pressure" switches. I interpret this as membrane switches similar to those used on some TV remote controls rather than something like a touch screen. If you can non destructively gain access to the synthetic rubber membrane, and clean the inner surface with methylated spirits, you may be able to make an inexpensive cure. I have used this technique on TV remote controls. Alan

I agree with David's comment quoted above. Alan

I have read a similar article to that linked by Steve928. In my case the article was a thread on the Italian camperonline forum, perhaps 2 years ago. Diagrams and instructions for increasing the effective capacity of the tank were included. Unfortunately I do not seem to have saved the link, probably because it was not relevant to my x244 Ducato, which I recently filled with over 65 litres. Alan

I am sorry Mike, but I cannot agree with the above section of your otherwise excellent summary. Reducing the voltage to 110V, from for simplicity 220V, will reduce the power consumed by the heater to one quarter of the power taken at 220V. As you will realise, assuming constant heater element resistance, power dissipated is proportional to V x V, or V squared. I am experimenting with using a 115V alternator powered inverter, to supply the 450W water heating element in my Truma Combi. The idea is not to heat the water, but to compensate for heat loss from preheated water when travelling. Alan Alan

I had to replace the RHS mirror on my x244 Ducato PVC last October. A bronze coloured SUV? veered sharply towards me at a narrow point on Kirkstone Pass, impacted with the mrror and failed to stop.The mirror was destroyed, remaining dangling on its cable. The force of the impact pushed the mirror into the quarterlight. My wife and myself were showered with glass fragments. I obtained a replacement mirror from wingmirrorman, which I had to modify slightly to fit. The wiring emerged from the mirror body in the wrong place. I had to file a notch in one of the stiffening ribs at the rear of the mirror base, in order to avoid trapping the wiring against the door. I also had reservations about the quality of the plastic mounting pad, and chose to retain the slightly torn original. Also the original Fiat version was held together by two M6 set screws, whereas on the replacement the screws were only M5 Phillips head. Obviously not as robust. The new mirror does function OK. Alan