MikeF

The fuse in the battery to starter/alternator cable is not a standard mega fuse, it's a CAL 4 or CAL 5 fuse. These are 'slow blowing' and allow many tens of seconds of high current to the starter motor.

Having rebuilt a number of the MLGU 6 speed 2 shaft gearbox, I can confirm the box is marked 'fill 2.9l'. There is always some oil remaining after draining, perhaps 0.1l. The listed Experya is non synthetic, whilst the Matryx and Geartech are synthetic and thus stable at higher stress and temperature than non synthetic. The most important is the GL4 rating, which specifies no/low sulfur and phosphorus content. Thus GL4+ and GL5 should be avoided. The MLGU 6 speed, 2 shaft box is not very robust and is operating near its torque limit. My view it that it needs a synthetic oil to extend its useful life. The bearings supporting the gear shafts are quite small compared to other gearbox designs and have high loadings. There is little difference between Geartech and Matryx synthetic gear oils, so I cannot see any reason to change. Petronas are constantly renaming their transmission oils, currently the Tutela Multi MTF 700 seems a possible alternative. Note the same gearbox internals are used on the Relay and Boxer, using different brands of transmission oil, so oil type is not critical, ( other than GL4). Regarding oil quantity, if its a drain and refill then 2.8l seems a good compromise. A rebuilt box would need 2.9l. Mike

Voltage is not the main issue when converting to lithium. Lead acid batteries of any type, have a much higher Internal resistance then lithium, and self limit charge current. In a typical motor home set up this will, be in the region of 10 to 20 amps. A lithium battery, without any current limiting control, could take 50 to 100 amps from the alternator. Typical alternator voltage will be 14.2 to 14.4 volts, unless you have the later Euro 6 start stop smart alternator. Regarding current output of the alternator, from 07 onwards its a 150 or 180 or 200 amp rated, 99 to 06 is 90 amp rated. Output at engine idle speed will be around 70% of maximum. There is considerable mis information about charging lithium batteries, even from the battery suppliers and so called lithium chargers. Any charger with 'target' charge voltage from 13.8 volts to 14.6 volts will charge. Ideal is 14.0 or 14.2 volts. Absorbtion period should be short, less than1 hour. Float volts no more than 13.5 volts. Unlike lead acid batteries lithium batteries dont have to be kept 'full'. In fact keeping the fully charged lithium battery at voltages over 13.5 volts , for long periods, will reduce service life.

You have a failing connection between the panel and battery or a failing leasure battery. It could be in a cable, cable termination, fuse holder. Check again any changes you made. Check connectons to the leasure battery Including the negative cable and its terminations. Measuring voltages with a meter whilst an assistant switches panel loads may help to pinpoint the fault.

What is important is the 'spare ' capacity of the alternator at low engine speeds. Fitting a 30A battery to battery charger is possible in most vans without issues, this limits the vehicle draw to around 35 amps. Due to the low Internal resistance of the lithium battery, direct connect connection will alow high currents to to flow, perhaps putting the alternator into saturation. There may also be an issue with existing charge control relays and cables being inadequate. Consider Victron Orion Tri smart non isolated 12 12 30, https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/victron-orion-tr-smart-1212-30a-non-isolated-dc-dc-charger.html There can be problems integrating with the existing electrical system but there are easily resolved.

Antenna amplifier power draw?

It's possible the thermostat has failed. Get your electrician to bridge the thermostat contacts on the control unit to simulate the thermostat action. The compressor takes a high current to start and inadiquate battery voltage or poor wiring/connections between battery and fridge can prevent starting. This is the most common issue where the compressor fridge fails to run. Measure the volts at the fridge controller to ensure it's within range , above 11.5 volts as its attempting to start. As discussed the fridge electronic controller has fault indication if a led is added to the control unit It's very unusal for the compressor or control unit to fail, but the mechanical thermostat is a weak point. A sucessful start will be indicated by the fan running continuously Mike

I accidently entered a section of electronic toll motorway in Portugal , left at the next exit but had passed a camera gantry. My UK car was not registered for the system. Several months later received a demand from EPC, with the basic toll cost of a few euros inflated to many tens of pounds. Accepted that I had made an error and payed the penalty. Nothing since. It could be that Steve is being charged for for each section of the toll route or several trips along toll sections. If you ignore the demand from EPC, the penalty could stay on record in Portugal, this may cause issues if you revisit Portugal. It's annoying, firstly that DVLA sell data to EPC and secondly, that the SCUT motorways built with EU money were intended to be toll free. Mike

Lower cost than Honda for the tape, https://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/product/anti-rodent-electrical-tape/

If this is the warning on the vehicle instrument cluster then you may have charging issues, perhaps alternator failure. The following can cause issues, starting with a low starter battery, jump starting, charging the engine starter battery, replacing the starter battery, Any of the above actions may damage the air bag computer. Mike

The vehicle has a high pitched alarm, any 'messing' with the electrics may have activated this alarm. Locking/unlocking with the remote key should reset this alarm.

If fitting all season tyre of a different manufacturer to the existing set, that then it's advisable to have the same tyres all round. If only two new tyres are fitted, they must be on the rear axle, regardless of which axle is the drive axle. Ideally tyres on the same axle should be same make and type. This is not the requirement of any legislation in the UK , but should be followed to have safe and predictable handling. Mike

Excellent off road lay-by, was the old A38, at 50.3821 -3.9929. Leave the A38 after a few miles past Iveybridge, sign Smithaleigh Services, continue past the garage and straight on at the junction, lay by further on, on the left. The Camp site you pass seems to be for storage.

An inverter rated at 1000 watts would seem suitable. Needs to be a quality unit, lots of units on ebay/amazon cannot deliver to specification. With voltage sag on the batteries and inverter efficiency there will be a current draw of around 90 amps. Whilst two 80Ah will produce that current, they will be stressed somewhat and may have a reduced service life. However if early replacement is needed, then regard this as the cost of having toast. https://www.splitcharge.co.uk/product/pro-power-sb-pure-sine-wave-inverters-12v-1000w/ https://www.roadpro.co.uk/product/02i-inverters/nds-smart-inverter-pure-sine-wave-12v-1000w-c7682/C7682 https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/victron-phoenix-pure-sine-wave-inverter-12v-1200w-vedirect-enabled.html The above examples can be obtained from other suppliers. Technically you don't need a pure sine wave for devices with heating elements, but even simple things like hair driers may have electronic control that needs a sinewave voltage. It also allows connecting other appliances without worry. The installation needs suitable cable, at least 25mm2, with a Mega link fuse plus fuse holder, 125 amps, the fuse ideally mounted within 15 cm of the battery post. Fit the inverter as close as practical to the battery. If a long run of cable is need go up a size. It's possible to buy ready made terminated cables, example, https://www.sunshinesolar.co.uk/Item/BATCAB35 Mike

Sorry I am in Ireland with poor Internet, try this link for a sensor, https://www.fruugo.ie/new-fiat-citroen-peugeot-van-outside-temperature-sensor-underneath-mirror/p-222735943-475160955?language=en&ac=croud&asc=pmax&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq7jr0Pz1gQMVb4tQBh0M2gLYEAQYBiABEgI0TPD_BwE Or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Automotive-Rearview-Temperature-71753245-Compatible/dp/B0C6LZFP2V/ref=asc_df_B0C6LZFP2V/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=658877062259&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12938039884794962962&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20479&hvtargid=pla-2195200257329&psc=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq7jr0Pz1gQMVb4tQBh0M2gLYEAQYAyABEgKdHvD_BwE Or https://www.auto-doc.ie/febi-bilstein/15255943 Or, https://www.ebay.ie/itm/133672388697 The replacement I fitted last year didn't exactly match the existing cable loom but was a simple matter to splice in the replacement. Mike

https://www.micksgarage.com/d/sensor-exterior-temperature/products/0d493509262

My guess is without the sensor, perhaps a 10K NTC, the electronics will default to a stupid value. In turn the software gets confused and does not complete the DPF burn cycle. Mike

No need to do anything to the ABS system. This gives you an idea of what's involved, https://youtu.be/XREvctr7BkQ?si=azdW6OEPwplvinjA I recommend changing the front discs at the same time. Depending on which chassis, light or heavy, there are different pads and discs. A technique I use is clamping the hydraulic brake hose, and when pushing back the caliper cylinders release the pressure via the bleed nipple. This prevents any brake fluid being pushed back through the ABS valve block. Whilst not absolutely necessary, it prevents possible contamination being pushed into the ABS and master cylinder. If the low pad warning has truly activated there is usually enough pad material to complete your journey. The warning is sometimes activated if the brakes are used in anger, mountain pass decent, as either the wiring near the caliper or the contact in the pad, overheat and make contact with metal. The sensors are on the front near side and rear offside. Mike

Since your vehicle is a van based motorhome it sounds as you are describing the van sill, this has many plastic/rubber like plugs. This means the water is flowing inside the van and making it way out via the vehicle sills. I suggest tracing the hot and cold pipe runs and searching for leaks on the near side. As the leak only occurs when the pump is active it must be in the pipework and connections after the pump. Best guess is a failed connector. Since the tank is under the van, the problem won't be there, its inside.

It's unclear from your post what is towing what. Assuming you want to fit a tow bar to your motorhome contact the manufacture, there may be chassis extensions that compromise fitting and allowable load. The suppliers of ucamp may also be able to offer advice,

These comments are interesting, a) 'simple split charge B2B b) 'KS energy 300 Ah battery' There is a recall on some KS batteries, fire risk, worth contacting KS for advice. Trying to charge a lithium battery from engine charging, without current control, may/will damage components in the charge path, such as alternator, wiring, connection points. KS make a marketing point that their battery was a 'drop in' direct replacement in a motorhome application . Mike

Whilst replies have focused on connections to the vehicle battery negative there has been no discussion regarding the control of charging the 300 Ah lithium battery. Although 'professionally installed ' the charging system setup may be incorrect or something is not performing correctly. This situation could be taking energy from the starter battery even with no engine charging. Perhaps the frequency use of hook up charging is masking an underlying fault with the battery to battery charging. Mike

Re cell balancing. Battery management systems, BMS, tend to start cell balance when the cell is over 3.4 volts, 13.6 for a 4 cell 12v battery. Any inbalance will only show up when cells are almost full, this is voltages over 3.4 volts per cell when under charge.( a resting, no charge or load, full battery will have a voltage of 13.4 to 13.5 volts. I also have seen the manufactures data you refer to and I think its a translation error. I may be wrong but a BMS operating on this principal, only activating balance at 14.4, would be a poor design Mike

Battery sellers are not going to suggest there may be issues using their batteries, however Fogstar batteries are high quality and are recomended. It's often suggested lithium needs a 'special charge voltage, this is not true. A 12v lithium battery will happily charge to full, at charger voltages as low as 13.8 volts. Victron specify 14.2 volts charge and 13.4 float as the default lithium garage voltage. However the battery charging sources must safety deliver the possible high charge currents that lithium batteries may accept. Unlike lead acid batteries, that to some extent, self limit the charge current, a lithium battery, when charging, will take is the maximum that the charge sources can deliver. This may stress some charging systems. What is important with lithium is not to 'overcharge'. If held at high voltages higher than its 'full resting' volts of 13.4, for long periods, then accelerated ageing takes place. This may shorten useful life to a few years. The function of a lithium battery BMS is often misunderstood. In no way does it control any charge process. It's purpose is to protect the battery and it does this by effectively disconnecting from any charge or discharge path if safety limits are exceeded . Idealy the charging and discharging voltages and currents should be inside the BMS protection 'envelope'. How does this effect a typical motorhome electrical system? Split charge charging system. This simply connects the starter battery and alternator to the leisure battery. Very high currents may flow, only limited by the circuit resistance between the alternator and lithium battery ( due to the very low Internal resistance of the lithium battery). This could result in currents 50 to over 100 amps. This could be bad news for the alternator and anything between it and the lithium battery. There is the added issue that there is no termination of the charge process. As discussed lithium does not like being subjected to a continuous high voltage whilst fully charged. The advantage of using a B2B charger, I recomend the Victron Orion b to b 1230, 30 amp charger, is that almost all existing installations will not be over stressed by the 30 amp charge current, and the unit has a ideal charge profile for lithium. The Victron can directly replace a split charge relay with minimal circuit changes. The use of a battery master or similar will be slightly less effective, depending on charge voltages, but will still be useful as a maintraining charger. Mains or solar chargers MPPT type, can be used with lithium provided, There is no temperature compensation ( only needed for lead acid). The charge voltage, ( absorbtion voltage) is 14.4 volts or lower ( ideal 14.2) The absorbtion period is less than 60 minutes ( ideal 30 minutes) The float voltage is 13.5. Solar chargers, the low cost PWM type are not recomended and may cause damage to lithium batteries . There is other information regarding installing lithium batteries that may be discussed as the thread continues . Mike

It most likely is the clock spring that's failed. This also carries command signals for the air bag, that even if intact at this point, may fail soon. The assembly is complete with ' storks', the click spring is not available as a seperate unit, combi switch assembly is needed. This must match the van options, for example, cruise control, auto lights/ wipers , thus needs to be ordered using the VIN. It's quite expensive, £250 upwards. SH are available but not recomended due to safety considerations.( air bag). Dealer fitting recomended. Mike