Robinhood

If the b to b is a Schaudt WA121525* it will charge your lithium battery(ies) at 25A maximum. Only you can decide if this is an adequate rate, but it's more than enough for me. * there is a higher rated unit which I think is 45A, but I suspect this wouldn't be a factory fit, and uprating might challenge the standard wiring. On the road,the vehicle battery receives a substantial charge from the alternator at the same time (dependent on alternator rating). Under normal circumstances the EBL will ensure a trickle-charge of the vehicle battery (the max amps varies by EBL model) from the mains charger, and any solar, if appropriately wired (via the EBL or separately) may well do the same. This (trickle-charging) isn't relevant for charging whilst driving. I'd counsel caution in fitting a battery master when the EBL has the trickle-charge facility, unless you're very careful with the wiring. It wouldn't be sensible to have both in place at the same time. An ability to disable the battery master circuit when not in storage would probably work (I'm assuming hook-up and/or solar are not available in storage, otherwise the EBL trickle-charge would probably suffice)

...as I said earlier up-thread, you need to give the re-wired situation an extended test and let the current sensor settle. There are a number of other things that could still be suspect if you don't experience a continued improvement, but at least prima-facie the battery negative wiring was in error, and that could be the sole/main cause of your woes. As regards the rest of the kit, I'd be wary of casting aspersions until/unless I knew what was fitted and how it was wired. The initial photos indicate that a dc-dc converter is probably fitted, and the neatness of the labelling and wiring give the possibility that this has been done competently (though that is mere surmise). It does lead one to conjecture that the towbar fitting was done later by someone less understanding of stop/start and smart alternators, and the wiring was repositioned then. Whatever, if you experience further problems it's worth a check by a competent electrician, if you don't I'd be wary of going to the expense of a Sterling b to b, as you may be replacing a perfectly competent existing b to b. (The initial photos have wiring labeled DC-DC, it would be interesting to see what that feeds - possibly/probably a workable b to b charger?)

..as above. The age of the vehicle and the fitting of a dc-dc charger means it is most likely that a smart alternator is fitted (and this assumption was behind the suggested rewiring. In this case a measured voltage (and fluctuation) anywhere between 12v and 15v or even above would not be unusual. In the correct circumstances the electronics vary (minimise) the voltage and load on the alternator/engine to improve efficiency/lower emissions. We're hoping the rewiring has allowed that logic now to do its job properly. You need to give everything a good chance with varied running to check whether the engine battery is now being sufficiently maintained to ensure proper starting. I'm currently off to the continent, so haven't got time to confirm the following, but my impression was that owners of vehicles with smart alternators were generally reporting "standing" voltages somewhat lower than the 12.6/12.7v experienced with more conventional alternators, so even a slightly lower voltage might be entirely normal (if you charge above this using the mains charger, the alternator might not kick-in for some time, hence the voltage might validly drop)

They know where to find you now, though......

S'alright, Jeremy. We won't dob you in. 😉

If they're led, they look rather like: https://www.bowerspartsonline.co.uk/lighting/marker-lamps/led-marker-lamps/jokon-pl242-13.5021.000-caravan-motorhome-12v-led-white-front-marker-light-lamp ..though I'm not 100% convinced. You can check the dimensions from the listing, and if they look correct use the p/n to check for best price.

Odds on they will be either Jokon or Hella. If you can identify them, then check https://boltonbits.co.uk/ or https://www.bowerspartsonline.co.uk/lighting/caravan-motorhome-lighting ...the latter do a lot of their stock via eBay (sometimes cheaper with P&P) https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/bowersautomotive

I'd likely agree with the potential diagnosis you've been given, but the lack of clarity of the picture means I'm not certain, and also not certain that the move you describe is the correct one. (The picture isn't clear enough for me at least to identify the components). So, back to basics. Your vehicle is likely fitted with a smart alternator. This is controlled by measurement and logic in regards to the total capacity input to and output from the vehicle battery. The measurement of this is via a "shunt" connected between the negative terminal of the battery and the vehicle ground (the body). For proper functioning it is essential that all current flow (either in or out) is measured and calculated. This means there should be no additional earth connection on the battery side of the shunt. If another earth connection is present on the battery side of the shunt, then any current flowing in the circuit it supports won't be monitored. There are a couple of hefty connections (and a few others) in your picture that appear to be directly connected. My suspicion would be that the thicker is for split charge/B2B, and this will potentially take a lot of capacity from the vehicle battery circuit which is unmeasured. This means any smart alternator would be unaware, and you would end up with pretty poor charging (if any) whilst driving. Now, I haven't a reference for a Ducato "shunt", and the topology of the connections isn't clear. That means that I'm not entirely sure that the additional connections are on the wrong side of the shunt, and if they are I'm not sure the new connection point you circle is correct. This latter is largely because the shunts I've seen look more like the unit (with letters on) to the left of the arrowhead. Others may be better placed to advise in detail, but the fundamentals are: a) one side of the shunt should connect to the battery negative terminal b) there should be no ground connection on that side of the shunt c) the other side of the shunt should be grounded to the body (hefty cable), and all additional grounds should be on this side of the shunt. The things that concern me are: a) just exactly where is the negative terminal connection b) just exactly what is the red-ringed multi connection bolted to (can't see where) c) if the box with writing on is the shunt, is the other black unit a negative disconnection relay (with the original ground cable to the left?). Edit to add: John's clarified the second point c) above. If the second b) above answer is that it is connected directly to the negative terminal, then the move you've described is probably good.

I suspect Ts&Cs may vary, but my insurance specifically requires the 'van to be taxed as a condition of the insurance being valid. Patently, the non-taxed status can be determined easily if the vehicle isn't SORNed (unless the proposal was to SORN it as soon as one was out of the country).

..just a quick afterthought; If you do get a mifi, it's sensible to use a data SIM from a different network to your phone(s) as not all networks cover the same area. If you subsequently use it abroad, different networks have different roaming partners. And be aware that quite a few smaller providers piggyback on a main network (e.g. Tesco and Giffgaff are on O2)

It's another Huawei (E5577). I've had it for a good few years.

Whilst my MiFi can take external antennae, I've never bothered, and have generally had decent reception/performance in most places where there is a signal (though patently there are some "not-spots" where an antenna might help).

32.00 is in the correct lb/oz range for a 13kg tare weight, and your calculations look about right.

Stamped on it is the tare weight, which you can subtract from the weight of a full/partially full bottle to determine the weight of the gas therein. It is slightly complicated, however, in that the weight on the collar is in pounds and ounces (the numbers to use should be obvious), even though the bottles are sold in kg. 🙄

My experience is with FIAT, not Peugeot, so there will be differences. I don't replace the plug (as Derek highlights) but I always use a new washer (though the one that comes off always looks OK). The plug on the Fiat needs a hex key (i.e. it is a female fitting). One thing on the FIAT that may be relevant to the Peugeot (certainly Googling suggests it is) is that the oil degradation counter should be reset at oil change. The Fiat has both a service interval reset and an oil degradation reset (the two processes may well be asynchronous and I think Peugeot is similar). I use MultiECUscan software for this reset (but it won't be relevant for your Peugeot). There are simple instructions on the web on how to reset on the Peugeot using a pedal sequence, but it isn't clear (to me) whether this is for Service Interval, Oil change, or both. Frankly, if I didn't know, and my estimated mileage from last oil change the next anticipated service/oil change was rather less than the recommended interval, I'd probably change oil and leave any reset alone. (though the vehicle will think the new oil is already degraded, it should reach the next interval without problems, and the function you desire from the oil change will have been achieved). Edited to add: Check if your 'van has under engine tray(s) - it's a bit more involved if it has.

Much would depend on the manufacturer of the tank, and there are few clues Unless the failed cap has an imprint). I know Autosleepers used Amber Plastics at one time, and there are a few (including AP) on: https://www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/water-containers-tank-caps--luggage-trolleys-52-c.asp

According to Leisurespares, yes: https://www.leisurespares.co.uk/brands/dometic/fridges-dometic-and-waeco/rm7xxx-series-fridges/rm7290/el10288 (but don't take my word for it 😉)

I doubt the number you quote is that for the part itself. 921085347(/00) is the model number for a RM7290L fridge. 😉

Having searched again, it would appear that the 2005 700 series might have been fitted with Sargent electrics (the E400 probably not). Anyway, I suspect the most appropraite wiring diagram you'll get is that posted by Derek above, see the manual here: https://www.bessacarr-owners-club.org/info-centre/manuals/motorhome/Bess-MH-Service-Book-2005.pdf

At that vintage, the electrics may well have been supplied by Nordelettronica. If so, the following wiring diagram might be useful (it's for the 400 series, but the circuitry supplying the fridge and step are likely to be similar). https://www.motorhomefacts.com/attachments/van_wiring_true_col_300_174-jpg.10708/ I'm struggling to think of any switch or relay failure that could give your symptoms, but I've only briefly considered it.

It's even worse when the people at both ends have no idea what they are talking about 🤔

...the hanger position requires some consideration as well..

It can be a bit of a nightmare. Converters may well order A RHD vehicle with LHD exhaust configuration, such that they can mount conversion components in the same place on both models. If that is the case, a LHD silencer might work. e,.g. https://coastalmotorhomes.co.uk/fiat-ducato-peugeot-boxer-citroen-relay-lhd-rear-exhaust-box-2-2l-2-3l-06-on.html (there are other variations and suppliers check google for LHD units). Do check the configuration very carefully, though, as it might look just about right, but be subtly different. If the 'van has an al-ko chassis, then things get rather more difficult, as the exhaust systems tend to be "bespoke". Usually under these circumstances people resort to having a replacement exhaust fabricated, often in stainless steel rather than mild steel, by one of the surprisingly many supplier that will do this. Fabrication would also provide a solution for the "standard" chassis if you can't find a silencer that fits. Whilst not exactly cheap, it's not as much as one might imagine.

It's some time now since we last went to Sweden, and the travel arrangements I posted in a trip report on here have most definitely changed, so I won't link to it. However: The nearest you're going to get by ferry now is either Harwich-Hook of Holland (which we find a decent crossing, and about the most cost-effective - out overnight with a cabin, back on the day crossing, or Newcastle Ijmuiden, which we've never used). There is also still Hull-Rotterdam, but the Harwich-Hook crossing which drops you in a similar location trumps that in our opinion. The bridges are expensive, though various pre-arrangements can defray the cost, they do change from time-to-time. If you're happy to bypass Denmark, using the TT-Lines ferry from Germany, either Travemünde (generally cheaper) or Rostock to Trelleborg, can be both convenient and cost-effective (particularly if one of their "camper" offers is available at your desired time). I dismissed this option when we went, on the basis that departure/arrival times in Sweden were not particularly attractive. Then I discovered the Ställplats adjacent to the ferry at Trelleborg (when we called in the nearby supermarket). It's not particularly scenic, but it is functional and very convenient for late arrivals/early departures. (If it's still functioning, the one at Smygehuk about 10 miles away is considerably more scenic). There's a choice of official overnight places near the ports at Rostock and Travemünde.

I don't know what is being bought in Germany, but ebay.de is awash with listings for Angles Morts stickers depicting "Wohnmobile".