Robinhood

It appears to be a BCA unit, for which Apuljack provide repair options (and a replacement fascia). https://www.apuljackelectronics.co.uk/MANUFACTURERS/BCA__c-p-0-0-19-66.aspx

Whilst in the past many three-way fridges didn't have thermostatic control on 12V, it was more likely that this would result in over-cooling on that source rather than the opposite. Many/most now have such control on 12V. Certainly the specifications of the current range of Thetford (and Dometic) absorption fridges indicate that the cooling (heating) power consumption in watts is rather similar for both 230V and 12V operation, and though the latter is usually a smidgin' lower, it really shouldn't be enough to make any material difference. The conclusion I'd come to is that most current (and recent) fridges should perform very similarly on both 230V and 12V operation. (assuming similar cooling efficiency per watt input from either source) Quoted gas consumption indicates that the cooling performance on that source might be slightly higher (or slightly less energy efficient 😉)

A portable solar panel I bought a good few years ago cam with a surface mount din/hella 12v socket for permanent positioning on the 'van connected to the battery, and a din/hella 12v plug connected to the wiring from the solar regulator on the panel. It worked well over a number of 'vans. As an example (not necessarily a recommendation for purchase - similar items are widely available) https://www.roadpro.co.uk/product/20e-procar-12v-24v-din-sockets/procar-surface-mounted-din-socket-c0207/C0207 https://www.roadpro.co.uk/product/20d-procar-12v-24v-din-plugs/procar-53005000-15a-din-standard-plug-loose-min-order-50-c0213/C0213

I think, being more clear (I hope), that in France a vehicle originally registered as a motorcaravan will be described as a "caravane" on its documents. A vehicle originally registered as a commercial vehicle or private (non-motorcaravan) with a maximum weight of 3.5 tonnes can, subject to conversion, qualification and certification be homologated and re-registered under the "VASP" category. As the latter category doesn't exist in the UK, but it is still possible, with rather more hoops to go through than once was the case, to re-register a similar-origin vehicle as a motor caravan, effectively we are saying that if your UK vehicle has "motor caravan" at D5, then the derogation will apply by alignment with "caravane".

Under the link I posted above, there is a reference and further link to the actual decree showing the derogations. Patently the detail is subject to both my French translation skills, and an understanding of vehicle classification in France. The derogation to June '24 is described as applying to "les vehicules de type autocaravane portant les mentions "VASP" et "CARAVANE" sur le certificat d'immatricualtion" VASP is a category that covers (certified) self-converted camper vans up to 3.5 tonnes, but there is no weight limit associated with the "caravane" definition.

Latest details here (I think): https://metropole-rouen-normandie.fr/zone-faibles-emissions-mobilite (let Google translate) A13 is shown on the map as being outside the LEZ (which itself should still be accessible with a "3" or lower Crit' Air sticker. (At least, that's my interpretation 😉 )

...what, wear it on his watch-chain? 🤣

...have you checked whether it is possible to get the battery(ies) re-celled?... (Generally only possible if the battery is cased and can be removed from (within) the frame, which isn't obvious from your post.)

...I have... 😉

I'm pretty sure that's a picture of a (2014-on) X290. Even on that the washer bottle doesn't need the flap removing for filling, only the coolant and power steering, the washer filler being exposed in the far rear corner to the left as you look at it. On the preceding X250 (which is what the OP's vehicle is likely to be), the scuttle design is different, and the fluids should be stacked front to back to the left as you look at the engine bay, with engine coolant, power steering and then washer bottle tucked away at the back (fiddly to access, but no need to remove anything).

Yes. Though we would have liked a little longer, that was all we could loosen up between family commitments. Some things to note, though: As the trip log highlights, it was a bit of a road trip, only do-able with good distances between stops. The driving doesn't faze me (and the roads were generally clear and easy) but it might others. It was also assisted by the Harwich-Esbjerg ferry, which no longer runs. All the arrival points on the Continent might now require several more days to get up to the same starting point. Our particular experience was helped by the rather good weather, and the extended light evenings of the chosen season, meaning we could get good exploring in after arriving at a site, even after a long drive. I'd do it again, but ideally with a few more days (especially given the ferry situation).

...not via the Baltic States, but we have done the trip round the Gulf of Bothnia up via Finland and back via Sweden. Would love to do it again, and The Wilderness Road would be one of the targets. You may cull some info from my 2013 trip report:

The Peugeot 2.8 hdi/Fiat 2.8jtd suffer(ed) from a short wiring loom to number 4 injector which used to exhibit similar symptoms (particularly EML under acceleration as the engine moved somewhat and put more tension on the wiring). No guarantee that it is your issue, but it was common. I had my 2006 Fiat fixed under warranty. If you Google you'll get numerous hits like this: https://www.motorhomefacts.com/threads/peugeot-fiat-citroen-2004-engine-management-fault-rectified.79706/

I bought from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334493285204?hash=item4de15a7b54:g:8qAAAOSwcKViwvFQ ...though this doesn't appear to be the same listing. (there are other variants in this seller's shop). I'm really not sure how much there is to choose between the various suppliers (you'll only know when you receive one), I suspect many of them come from similar sources. As already discussed, mine patently isn't quite as robust as an OE version, but it functions, has lasted 18 months so far, and with the addition of mirror protectors has survived a further recent blow. (Sufficient enough to knock the main glass out, but it was retained, hanging, by the "heating" wires and was easily remounted). You'd find it hard to distinguish visually from an OE unit without studying hard. Again, a warning to check exactly what the spec of yours is (mine was electrically heated and adjusted with the temperature sensor - the latter on the replacement is mounted in a different place but functions as per the original). ...and, another tip: these mirrors come with two different indicator specs and lenses - 5W and 16W. Commonly, motorhomes come with 16w, but not all those advertised do. If the indicator on the broken mirror has survived, it can be substituted if you receive the different version. Adjust the mirror fully over and the two mounting screws are accessible. (Installing a wattage different from that installed at the factory is likely to throw Canbus errors).

The fitting would be very simple without Remis Blinds being mounted, but they (the door blind) obscure one of the mirror mounting screws. I wasn't looking forward to removing the blind, but I watched a YouTube video that reckoned it was reasonably straightforward, and it turned out to be so. The various electrical connectors are secured in the door cavity, but can be accessed by carefully levering out the window/mirror switch unit in the door arm. It's then a bit like working through a letterbox, and if you drop a connector the door trim will probably have to come off. As above, check what your mirror contains - the temperature sensor (if fitted) is generally in that unit. (Even without protectors, you're unlikely to note a mismatch - they're hardly next to each other!).

Frankly, though complete Fiat OE mirrors are pretty expensive, aftermarket ones can be picked up relatively cheaply. They generally don't feel as robust as the genuine item, but they match and are functional. It's certainly an option to consider as an alternative to a bodge. I had mine virtually destroyed by a white-van man in Devon; he didn't stop though I did. I sourced an aftermarket replacement that has sufficed since (and with mirror protectors survived a blow in German two weeks ago). Fitting isn't particularly difficult, though if you have Remis blinds the Remis door fitting has to come off (I found it easier than expected). The only fiddly bit is retrieving the wiring connections from within the door arm (by removing the arm switch module) - you don't want to drop the wires inside the door. If you wish to buy, you need to know long/medium/short arm, and any additional functions (such as heated, temperature sensor) before purchasing, and make sure you get a RHD version (assuming you are RHD). There are numerous suppliers - this is simply an example giving an idea of price (and with no experience, it isn't a personal recommend). https://ultimatestyling.co.uk/wing-mirror-door-mirror-drivers-side-rh-citroen-relay-fiat-ducato-peugeot-boxer-and-others-ult9364-mm

This video should give you some insight:

Just for the record, I think Ray was having a senior moment (don't we all) as he knows he meant polyfuses. As detailed, these are in-line electronic components that function as a self-resetting fuse, and a such won't be mounted in a fuse-box unlike conventional fuses.

..as you were, then Stand easy.,.

David, It just occurred to me that the (Autocruise) Renoir was (AFAIR) built on the Peugeot Boxer, where the 2.2 and 3.0 engines both had a chain, not a belt. A completely different kettle of fish. My memory may be playing up, or you may have one of the rare Autocruise vans built on the Fiat (I have a friend with such a PVC). Worth a thought, though.

I think that on this forum, the advice to replace the bolt came from Nick Fisher (Euroserv). ISTR there may have been more explicit posts, but the following link certainly seems to advise replacement rather than re-use. Euroserv Tensioner Bolt

Though now looking fairly dated at 6+ years old, this trip log sets out roughly what you're intending: ...though, if you haven't been there before I think I'd probably recommend going up through central Sweden, rather than the coast (which we did here because we'd done the centre - subject of another log on here). I do all the driving as well. The Lofoten Islands are hugely recommended (by me at least), and we feel another trip North coming on ;-).

Assuming that's the panel pictured below, then unfortunately there isn't a separate supply, and the power must come up via the EBL to Control Panel cable - using the vehicle battery feed. (so that's that theory gone!) The rest of my post applies, though. You need power into the panel, the switch on to operate the pump switching unit, and at least one working microswitch operating to work the tap relay. (You asked about the various taps/flush, etc. If you use an outlet with a working microswitch, the status of the others is irrelevant, closed or broken, the pump should still work). It appears that all panel power comes from the one feed, so if other lights work, then we can assume the panel is getting power. I assume you have switched the 12v system on before operating the pump switch, and that all other panel lights are working as they should do? (Funnier things have been done). I'm trying to get into my head what completes the circuit that turns the pump light on. It can't be the complete circuit to the pump (since the light wouldn't be on without a tap open) so it is either the logic within the panel, or the workings of the pump switching unit in the EBL. (My money is on the latter, as otherwise a simple relay would suffice, and it isn't tagged as such). I think it's still worthwhile checking out the pump outlet on Block 6, but my suspicion now falls on a failed control panel, or a failed (EBL) internal pump switch unit. In reality if the pump outlet shows no power, then a probe on pin 10 (to earth) on block 7 (the panel cable entry) would indicate whether the panel is trying to switch the switch unit and potentially eliminate that, but it will be very difficult to do that with the cable still plugged in as I don't think you'll find clearance to do so. :-( It also occurs to me that it would pay to test the tap microswitch input, but I've been interrupted, and I can't work out if that is powered with the taps on (which I think) or to earth.

...just to clarify my thinking: The pump is powered on pins 5 and 9 of block 6 of the EBL. The power to these pins is controlled both by the microswitch in the taps (which provide power to a relay in the EBL via pin 3 of block 6 when one or more are open) and the pump "switching stage" which is controlled/powered by pin 10 of the panel cable connector (i.e. the pump switch). Both these connections need to be made for the pump to run. The panel to EBL power on pin 10 is patently controlled by the pump switch on the panel, but it isn't clear where the power to the switch comes from (the return patently goes down the panel to EBL cable). The panel is, I think, powered by the vehicle battery (the only 12V supply shown up the cable), but panels I'm looking at appear to have a separate 12v feed dedicated to the back of the switch (but I need the panel model to confirm). This may be a branch off the vehicle battery 12v feed, but it isn't shown as such, and If this is separately fed, it may well be fused somewhere other than the EBL. I would want to check that switch feed to earth, to see if it had power.

I was posting this as you replied (and Ray it would appear) as I was doing some more idle research... ;-) Have you got a download of the EBL251 manual? The diagrams in there reference the pin numbers. (If not, I can probably post a pic or a link - or at least a way to get a download from Schaudt). BUT.... ...are you able to post the model of Control Panel your 'van is fitted with? Research into some of the panels fitted with that EBL indicate that the pump switch may well have a separate 12V supply in, not powered up the EBL to Control panel cable (I can't see that it is on the diagram) but sending power down it (the diagram implies that). This would make a certain amount of sense, since that cable is probably not capable of the load required to run the pump, which is why it appears there is a relay/switching unit in the EBL which it does power at low current to switch a more capable circuit. The reason I'm asking about the panel model is to ascertain whether there is in fact a separate 12v supply to the back of that switch, which would be a/the prime candidate for checking (given the lack of power and no indicator light) if there is. (I'm currently looking at a version of an IT992 panel which appears to work that way - it isn't the correct version, but, combined with the EBL diagram and your symptoms, it's worth checking first). Can you post a panel ID.