Robinhood

Turning it on will enable cooling and dehumidification of the input cold air stream. The temperature adjustment is still operative - blending that stream and the hot side (at blue for max cooling, and you may want to put it higher than blue if you simply want dehumidified air, say to clear the windscreen). It is manual aircon, so the effect will remain until the button is turned off. If it hasn't been run for the amount of time you state, it may need a regas, and/or some attention to the seals in the aircon system. The following link will give you an 04/05 handbook download that shouldn't be very different to your 'van. https://www.fiatforum.com/downloads/ducato-244-handbook-04-05.116/download

...not unless it is to be confined to a plastic tank, and not pumped such that it is in contact with stainless steel. Milton is corrosive (Puriclean isn't)

I suspect someone above hit the nail on the head. The belt was changed at Vanworld. It subsequently failed (rather a long time after) on the road, and was no doubt (being undriveable) recovered to the nearest FP garage for diagnosis. The belt issue was diagnosed there, and being still undriveable, the repair was also done there. Subsequently, Vanworld ended up paying. At least, that's how I would make sense of it! (FWIW, Vanworld were stocking and selling Hobby motorhomes when I was last there, and I think they still are).

Vanworld is an accredited Fiat Professional (and Camper) dealer/servicer. The almost adjacent Stoneacre Fiat part of a multi-make dealership is also Fiat Professional accredited (and has been there much longer). I've had minor work done at Vanworld to test them out, but, like most of the local FP outlets, to paraphrase Shania Twain "they don't impress me much" It's difficult to judge the circumstances without the full facts. The post seems to indicate that the belt was changed at around the specified mileage interval, but at 1 year only. One would possibly expect an OE belt given it would be in warranty at that point (but there is a strong possibility it might be on the borderline, even at 1 year, given the mileage). If a conversation was had about price for the work, it might well be that non-OE parts had been explicitly/implicitly agreed. INA, whilst relatively cheap, is not a "no-name" brand. It may go to reinforce my comments somewhere up-thread, that using an accredited FP dealer is not a guarantee (though it may offer better opportunities for a claim in case of future problems). The first service on both my current and previous Ducatos were carried out at FP dealers. Neither used Selenia oil - the previous van had, I think, Fuchs (might have been Shell) and the current Urania, which is the Petronas accredited oil for the similar engine in the Iveco. Experience of oil used across the industry is that it is quite likely to be the closest match they have in the bulk tanks "round the back". I've used 4 separate FP outlets round here. They are all multi-make sites, and there is very little demonstrable Fiat-specific knowledge or capability at most. One, though maintaining a large fleet of Ducato ambulances had only one mechanic who was Fiat trained (and patently didn't do servicing, which was left to the grease monkeys). Even then, I had to demonstrate to him that there were two service-intervals that need resetting, and how to do that for the oil!) Another patently knew nothing about Ducatos, but something about Iveco (hence the Urania oil as above). Around here, you pay a significant premium for their lack of knowledge. I prefer to do my own standard servicing, though I recognise my limits. Vanworld did a brake-fluid change for me, and Brownhills (of all people) who are FP accredited did the cam/auxiliary belts last year. (though the correspondence was a pain, once booked in it was convenient, and cheap - maybe I should start to worry 😉) .

I use the same Fuchs Titan Pro, (though I've used Selenia in the past when I could get it cheap) and I don't think there is another oil which is fully Fiat endorsed. A good few claim to "meet the requirements of". The most convincing of alternatives is probably Castrol Magnatec 0W-30 GS1/DS1, which is specifically designed to meet the Fiat DS1/GS1 specs but, AFAIK, is still not fully endorsed.

There's little doubt that the nearest equivalent current model adds some additional functionality. Give my main justification for originally fitting it was for insurance purposes (I've never bothered with either alarm or tracker on previous 'vans) I'm not particularly motivated by any new functionality, I'm more concerned about the timescale at which my insurer decides that the current unit is not "up to scratch". 😉

No, not you Rich! In common with a good few other motorhome owners, a condition of insurance for my 'van is the fitment of an authorised tracker or alarm. I'm not over-fond of alarms, having been disturbed by them going off on other vehicles spontaneously more often than I'd like. Accordingly, my van has been fitted with a (monitored) tracker from new, and this is now almost 6 years old. Many/most trackers on the market at that time were dependent on the 2G network for communication (mine is confirmed as such), and that (and 3G) is slated for turn-off across Europe to remove obsolescent equipment and clear up bandwidth for newer 4G/5G transmissions. It isn't a "regulated" process, more driven by commercial considerations of the network providers, and hard facts on status and timescales are not easy to find. Nonetheless, my research (unverified) indicates that 2G coverage will disappear in some major European countries by the end of next year at the latest. It also seems that 2G has already been removed in Switzerland. The UK seems to be on track for the end of 2030 at the latest (Some "local difficulties" such as Smart Meters may be implicated in that timescale). So, it would appear that my tracker may already not be fully-functional across Europe, and will become increasingly less so in the short/medium term. I think a 4G dependent replacement is probably on the cards, but it will cost, so the conundrum is, how long do I wait? (I've had no prompt from the tracker company, but I do now have confirmation that, being 2G, it is a looming issue that I first picked up from technical bulletins about the future of 2G/3G networks).

A compromise here might be the Continental ContiVanContactCamper. These are available in the required size, are CP tyres, 3 peak Mud and Snow rated, not unidirectional like the Crossclimates, and generally cheaper than the latter. More than that, Continental will quote or document tyre pressures for these tailored to the axle loads, which is almost certain to deliver lower recommendations for either one or both axles (depending on relative loading). I've always been careful on deciding the appropriate pressures (accompanied by real axle weights), but on camping tyres I don't run at the very high recommendations. My current CP tyres are run at 55/65, though they are bigger tyres than yours, with rather more leeway. I like to keep my fillings in place. In the past Michelin would recommend pressures based on real weights. I have two historic emails recommending much lower pressures on CP tyres (both front and back). They will no longer make those recommendations, but the Continental data tables do, albeit slightly more conservatively.

The 2.8 and 2.3 engines historically used in Ducatos were all "Sofim" engines. Sofim has had a history of being joint-ventured with Fiat, owned by Iveco, and various other states inbetween. The engines were mounted N-S and RWD in the Iveco, and E-W and FWD in the Ducato, but were essentially the same engines. The difference in mounting accounts for some of the "difficulties" of access when working on Ducatos. The (2.8 and 2.2) engines in Peugeots and Citroens were different, PSA or PSA/Ford based (though this engine was used in the rarer 2.2 Ducato). The current 2.2 Ducato engine, despite being described by various outlets that should know better as the same as that in the current Boxer and Relay is still Fiat specific (rumour has it that it is based on the 2.2 litre Jeep engine). I think you're probably correct, but it is odd that the specified replacement interval for the cambelt is 5 years, and for the auxiliary belt(s) 6 years. One would have thought, given the above, they would be the same. I had my cambelt replaced at 5 years last year, and requested that the auxiliary belts be replaced at the same time. That was done for just the cost of the parts, "because we're already in there".

I thought the specified service intervals even for the current Ducato were still 2 Years/30,000 miles? If so, servicing at 1 Year won't be required to maintain the warranty, and if asked any Fiat Pro garage is likely, if anything, to do only an oil and filter change (at a rather extortionate price). I prefer to change oil annually, and am happy to do it myself, but I've run my last two 'vans for the full 2 years from new before first service (at a Fiat Pro garage) in order to maintain some potential "goodwill". The warranty on those 'vans have both been only two years. Subsequent 2-yearly services undertaken by myself, with an unscheduled intermediate oil and filter change. I think technically the old EU rules still apply, and that warranties can be maintained by servicing at a VAT-registered garage with OE parts. Proving it in case of a warranty claim might prove difficult (from experience, even Fiat Pro garages seldom use the OE Selenia oils), and it is likely to scupper any out-of-warranty "goodwill". It's worthwhile checking your handbook for the Service Schedule - the recent copy I've referenced still appears to be 2 Years/30000 miles.

The 2007 is a "homologation" marking, not anything to do with build date (my 2018 'van has a similar 2007 mark). If it has been registered as PLG, then it should* have a second plate somewhere to support that. (anyone officially inspecting the vehicle will go by the plating, not by the tax grouping). *As above, this is not always a plate, or it's not always immediately visible, and there have been many occurrences of such plates/stickers being missing for various reasons. There should be a converter's CoC (though that might not have been passed on with the paperwork) which will give the definitive position post conversion - I'd still want a 3500kg plate, though.

The payload for automatic versions is shown as 60kg less than manuals, so there may be some sense in the gearbox being heavier, and uprated wheels/brakes being fitted. (Hymer pricelists indicate a 35kg penalty for the auto). Whatever the reason, the information already gleaned that the different wheels are standard on the auto version appears to be consistent with Fiat UK brochures. Upgrading (via a "pack") from steel to alloy wheels will give you all-black wheels on the manual, and diamond-cut/black ones on the auto (see snip attached from latest).

I note from documentation that Swift (for instance) released some of their Ford models (e.g. Voyager) as both a 3500 and 3550 version. 😮 That said, there is certainly a possibility that it doesn't have an additional plate at 3500. Subject to the legal capability to run at the lower MAM, then it would probably be possible to downplate the vehicle by 50kg if it should prove useful. It would have an effect on VED (increase it) but prove useful for avoiding the various downsides for vehicles over 3500kg used on the continent. Any (converter's) CoC accompanying the vehicle should indicate the MAM when it left their (rather than Ford's) factory.

The answers above are correct as long as that is the final stage plate. It appears to be that for the original Ford (Camper) Chassis, and the convertor may have added a second plate rated at 3500kg. (Frankly, given the various legislation implications, for a difference of only 50kg I'd be quite surprised if there wasn't a later, stage 2 plate). Many Fiat Ducatos, for instance, leave the factory plated at 3650kg, but are downplated by the manufacturer to 3500kg. The latest plate added is the relevant one. Mine has 3; a Stage 1 at 3650 (Fiat), Stage 2 at 3850 (when the Al-Ko chassis was added), and a Stage 3 at 3500 (when Hymer added the conversion). The 3500 is the one that legally applies. Which motorhome is it - research should indicate what the convertor should have plated it at.

Referring to instructions for the EC500, the setting appears to be "run time" for the motor, with no other defined units. "This setting will adjust the run time of the electric step motor (in internal time counts). This setting is provided to adjust the run time for different types of step. A longer time will be required for double or triple steps, a shorter time will be required for cassette style steps. The default setting is 30 counts." If the EC400 is similar, then increasing the setting by trial and error until full deployment might be the way ahead.

Buying through the above-mentioned Berlin website has at least two advantages: i) you can buy in advance at roughly the same (cheapest) price you can buy from TüV or Dekra in Germany, so you don't have to research and divert to find an outlet when you arrive there (many main dealers will do them as well). ii) The Berlin authorities are adept at determining emissions class from your scanned V5C (they generally go by registration date). German registration documents have an official emissions value field on them (missing from UK documents) and this can cause some debate elsewhere when the equivalent field can't be located. Return via post from Berlin is usually in line with Teutonic efficiency; I think every time I've applied it has been within a week. I suspect the following is not of any great effect on the OP, but given that such restriction that exist have now migrated to the requirement for a green sticker, applying for a vehicle that doesn't qualify for such is increasingly futile.

If I'm interpreting correctly and you've used the "test" button on the RCD and it hasn't tripped, it seems to me that it is likely that current isn't reaching it (the RCD). (There is also a slight chance it is "borked"). There shouldn't be any further fusing or interruption between the RCD and the inlet from the hookup lead, so I'd be inclined to check whatever house outlet you're using (should be relatively easy if it's 13 amp), and (after fully unplugging) the state of your hookup lead, and the 16A plugs on either end.

Sargent documentation appears to confirm that split-charging was implemented in the PSU (ECxxx) for their electrical systems. This appears to be consistent with the description of the EM40 unit here: https://sargent.zohodesk.eu/portal/en/kb/articles/em40-fiat-interface-unit ...which appears to provide the Fiat "Engine Running" signal to the PSU via brown/white wiring in and out. As mentioned above, this signal drops to ground (not positive) when the engine is running, and will be open circuit when it is not. It's relatively safe to assume that this signal is used by the PSU (EC500) to enable split charging internally. If the EM40 is damaged, then it would be very sensible in the first instance to check for both the input and output dropping to ground with the engine running. The particular connections can be derived from the above link.

The vent in the picture is definitely the 'fridge vent. (hence you can use two full winter vent covers) I think you'll find the heater flue is mounted at the edge of the underbody, slightly forward of the fridge vent position.

Yes. (it's the only setting that doesn't rely on monitoring the water temperature to work properly).

There is no water sensor per se. The (correct) position of the control ensures protection, and without water, in use the switch should only be set at d), which denotes space heating only. c) in either position heats water only, with a thermostat in the water that switches off at the appropriate one of the two temperatures. e) invokes both water and space heating (and favours water heating until it reaches 60 degrees, then stops and ups the blown output to space heating) As operation at either of these three settings takes into account the water temperature, they should only be used with water in the boiler - (overheating is likely to result otherwise). Setting d) invokes only space heating (at the set room temperature) and doesn't depend on the water temperature for operation. It can be used with the boiler full of water or not. If water is present, it's heating will not be prioritised over space heating, BUT, any water will be heated in an unregulated manner as a by-product of that space heating. The resulting water temperature will be very dependent on how long and how high the blown air heating is run.

I can find a good few listings in a similar dark grey colour, but they're all a slightly different (more rounded) shape. This looks to be the part, but in a lighter grey. The brand name may help in finding the correct colour, but if not a colour difference for a functional part that isn't in plain sight might be acceptable. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235127908853

Derek got in whilst I was looking for an old post. Alan and his's posts are broadly correct, but I posted on a similar query about a contemporaneous Swift Royale some years ago, as per the attached. Clicking on the following will reveal the response. Unfortunately the links in that post are now "broken" but as the content says, the manuals confirmed the information I posted (which is largely, with a little more detail, what has already been replied).

I don't think they stopped taking on new members. At one point they implemented a "qualification period" whereby you had to be a NFOP member for some months before you could take out travel insurance. This was then extended to a significantly longer qualifying period. Reading the Ts&Cs now (albeit somewhat quickly) I can see no current reference to this (but the continuing practice wouldn't surprise me).

I assume the fuse at 15 has been checked?