Robinhood

..Just thinking it could be condensation due to the time of year. I'm far from convinced, but I generally try to eliminate the easier stuff first. I certainly wouldn't be surprised if the frame wasn't sealed properly (maybe a bit of (removable) tape round the perimeter would provide a test?) With the code ADP7M20490X0500 and from images, my money is still on it being an S7 window. 😉

..the "ADP7...." number maps to a Dometic/Seitz S7 unit. (Searching on Seitz ADP7 doesn't give many hits in the UK, but does for EU websites). It's unusual for these units to leak. As Keith says, if you're convinced it's not condensation check carefully where any ingress is coming from (e.g. the frame may not be properly bedded/sealed).

...it may not resolve your issue, but there is a "Buzzer Volume" adjustment in the "Mode" settings. Just check that hasn't been turned down.

...assuming you've read the flash codes correctly, the following "snip" is from a reasonably up-to-date Truma Service blog...

...fault no 0006 on that list (and an old copy I have here).

I don't think that's going to stick, Brian. It clearly does perform as advertised (subject to it being able to process free TPEG traffic, something that would require a trip to Germany to check out). It will, I'm sure, perform all the functions you would expect from such a unit, except if you expected the (non-advertised) ability to provide "near-real-time" traffic updates in the UK. Since I discovered that mine would not provide Trafficmaster TMC, it's proven pretty adequate (the current Mrs Hood insists on checking traffic in the UK on Google maps anyway) and it provides a reasonable amount of TMC data when we're abroad. I know people like to "knock" the Zenec/Xzent range, but having had a few, I've found them more than adequate as a whole, and the IGO navigation software, after a learning curve and some tweaking, about the best for my purposes.

There are passing references to it in the product description (s), e.g. here: https://www.xzent.com/site/assets/files/1571/xzent_x-f285_product_info_en-1.pdf Which details TPEG use and the "free service" restriction. I must admit that, whilst I was able to interpret that, it requires no little background knowledge. The previous models UK TMC problems emanated, I think, from the fact that NNG (the software supplier) licensed Trafficmaster TMC data, and they pulled out of the market. AFAIK, the current supplier in the UK is INRIX. (It didn't stop NNG offering Trafficmaster licences for sale for some time after the Trafficmaster service ceased, though). From what I can gather, free TPEG services are currently only available in Germany. It might be, given history, that NNG will start to offer purchasable licences for premium TPEG services in the future, but I wouldn't hold your breath.

AFAIK, the X-F285 is TPEG only (not TMC). There is no free TPEG service in the UK (and, AFAIK, no way of licensing the X-F285 for any paid version, should it exist). Earlier Xzent radios which were TMC capable required, in any case, an additional TMC licence for the UK, as the only useful service is not free. Even then, the license used to work on the older TMC radios, but not on the more recent (but previous to current) series, something I took up with NNG (Naviextras) and they admitted it and removed the purchase option). Experience on the Continent (albeit it varies country by country) is different depending on the availability of more comprehensive free TPEG/TMC services.

As no-one has answered with specific knowledge...... Gas struts are fairly generic items. The correct replacement can be determined by measuring both the length of the cylinder and it's extended length (to the desired fixing point). The other key parameter is the force (now generally measured in Kg or in Nm) that it exerts (if it's to hold up a raised seat base it is likely to be at the lower end of the values). Unless you're unlucky, you can probably determine this value from the labelling on the existing strut. Then you need to check the end mounts (eyelet or ball, etc, and these might be reusable). Then, eBay might be your friend, or for specific requirements, someone like SGS would probably help: https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-struts (The complete range) ...or possibly more specifically... https://www.sgs-engineering.com/nl5969-autoquest-elddis-145-motorhome-bed-gas-strut (I know that's a different model, but, I'd be inclined to send an enquiry if you can define your parameters).

I just happen to have a 2010 Hymer Brochure here. The B SL range are described as Al-Ko chassised (the B CL range apparently not, but didn't feature a 654 anyway). At 96,500 the mileage is rather higher than average, but, if it's the one featured in this selection, the price may well reflect that. https://tinyurl.com/Three-654s ...and you can compare it to the other two.

...appears to be restricted to two days only, though. (I was assuming that the OP was referring to the Aire next to the beach at Av de La Petre. Reviews of the alternative Aire referenced above also indicate that Av de La Petre has now "gone").

The one at Soustons Plage is shown on Google Maps as permanently closed. I don't always find Mr Google reliable, but the reviews from the link there (last year) do indicate that it was due for closure/move elsewhere.

Glad it seems to have been sorted, let's hope it stays OK. The voltage will of course depend on how/where it is being measured (with a decent meter across the terminals is the only reliable method), but, as I posted somewhere above, I've certainly seen reports of a lower-than-expected standing voltage with smart alternators - something I've never seen explained despite researching. See this quote from another forum: "Often with smart alternators, a "full" starter battery is not regarded as being around the 12.7V mark, but at the 12.4V reading (it is not really full, but leaves space for regenerative braking and charge 'dumps')."

...been a bit since I drove a 'van of that vintage, Brian (I gave up when the starting handle became too much 😉), but in conjunction with other bits of the display, I suspect that's part of the service interval warning, not the odometer.

Having dismantled a damaged OE Driver's side mirror, mine had the temperature sensor simply clipped in place in the mirror body (above the little "blister". I've removed it and retained it as a spare. You certainly couldn't get OE temperature sensors separately, and that is probably still the case. On my previous 'van I had a sensor failure (reading 36-40C in the UK Autumn. The warranty repair included a complete new mirror. You can, however, source sensor replacements aftermarket pretty cheaply, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314317390232 ...though you would need to splice into the existing wiring. (the sensor end looks just like my removed OE version) Aftermarket mirrors with temperature sensors are relatively easy to source, in all arm lengths. Yours are probably "short arm", so: https://tinyurl.com/ducatomirrorts

It's difficult to comment advisedly without knowing the details of the hardware/software you're using, but there have certainly been reports of the airbag ECU being difficult/impossible to connect to with certain equipment. (either s/w or h/w, or both) The "actuators" for the panel lights are in a different ECU (The instrument panel one) to the airbag so it is entirely possible that you do have an issue with the airbag (ECU) but that the equipment you have won't connect with/interrogate that properly (hence no fault code). I use MultiECUscan which is capable of interrogating the whole network.

...but, as I answered above, depending on which Truma regulator you have, this might be eminently possible. The second battery output on an SDC12/SDC25 regulator is designed to provide a trickle-charge only to a starter battery (maximum of 1 amp). With the battery setting at AGM (for the leisure battery(ies) this will cause no issues for a flooded vehicle battery, and will play its part in keeping the vehicle battery in condition. (I have a Votronic of similar design and vehicle battery trickle-charge capability, and have used it with AGM leisure batteries with no issues for 5 years - now on Lithium). From the SDC12/SDC25 instructions: The earlier SDC10/SDC20 (which you may have) models are slightly more moot, in that the second output is a "full-fat" voltage, which is initially dormant but that the regulator switches to once the battery(ies) being charged on the first output are full. What is surprising from the documentation however (at least the version I've got) is that though they have both an AGM and a Flooded setting (and Gel), the charging regime on these two settings is identical (and probably more aligned with the characteristics of a flooded battery). I might want to raise a query with Truma as to whether that is true, but if so I'd run it on the AGM setting and connect the vehicle battery to the secondary output. From the SDC10/SDC20 instructions:

...there are such Solar regulators (normally those that simply trickle-charge the vehicle battery). It would be interesting to know which model of Truma (dual?) regulator you have. From what I can see the current range have just such a capability with a reduced trickle-charge to the starter battery. The earlier range appears to be somewhat different, with a preference to the leisure battery but switching to the vehicle battery once that is full. Whilst this older range seems to have AGM/Gel/Flooded settings, surprisingly (at least on the info I can find) the AGM and Flooded regimes appear to be the same, and if this is so, it wouldn't debar using it for both batteries.

...glad you got it sorted. If you've managed to rip CDs correctly, I doubt you'll want to go back to using them.

Colin, I've returned from the continent now, so can research and confirm my original thoughts somewhat better. I suspect with a newish van your Xzent will be an XF-270/275/285. All of these have two USB connections on the rear designed for (supplied) extension leads. One of these is dedicated to SW updates and Apple Carplay/Android Auto only. The other one is for the connection of media on a USB stick. If you have a Ford base (it could be Fiat or Ford on your 'van) the SW update one is supposed to be connected to a/the Ford standard dashboard USB slot, and if you're using this, then it won't play media. Both USB extension leads on Fiat, and the Media USB lead on Ford, are designed to be led somewhere accessible for you to access them. Generally, they tend to be terminated in the glovebox, but they could be anywhere in a dash cubby. You've obviously found a USB socket. If it's the Ford one in the dash you need to look for the other one. If it's Fiat, look for the second one in the same area. it is likely simply to be a trailing lead with a USB socket on the end (though may be secured to the dash/glovebox/whatever. As I said above, others have experienced similar issues. They've either managed to find the second lead eventually, or they've ascertained that it wasn't connected when the unit was fitted.

There have been a number of queries about the XZENT installation in recent vans, and mainly about USB usage. Depending on model (but relevant to most) the unit has the capability for 2 USB connections via (supplied) extension leads which should be connected to the back of the radio when it is installed. The lead(s) are then terminated in an accessible position (on the dash, and often in the glovebox) ready to receive a USB device. One of them is (on the latest models) I think dedicated to system updating and won't play USB media. So, if you've found one connection that doesn't work, look for the second and try that. I suspect the USB option will only "un-grey" when a valid USB stick is placed in the correct lead/socket of the two. Most people have managed to locate the second lead, but I've read some reports of the lead(s) not having been installed with the radio (something a dealer should fix). Of course there is a possibility that you've found the correct lead but the USB contains music in a wrong format.

Helen, I note you still seem to be logging in, but you haven't confirmed whether you've resolved your problem yet. I have a better internet connection now, and as I still think there's a good chance that the boiler "dump" valve is the source, I'll try to be a bit clearer (reviewing my original, I find it less than exact reading). You mention that you have found two drain valves. Your description leads me to believe that these are the two screw-turn valves in each of the hot and cold pipe runs that vent through the floor. They seem to be a Hymer thing. Mine have a blue screw top to them, and are much as shown here: If these are the only two you've checked, then you need to search for a/the additional boiler dump valve (there will definitely be one) and conventionally it will be close to the boiler (which is on the nearside in your 'van - coincidentally where you think water is escaping). It is odds-on you'll have the type referred to by Colin's link above (a Truma automatic frost valve in black, with a blue turnbuckle switch and reset button). It may be hidden in furniture near the boiler or under a flap in the floor (but should be reasonably accessible as it's a regularly used item). Finding this, and checking that it is closed, is absolutely the first step before anything more drastic.

Thanks Colin. If that's been found and checked, then I'm on a wild goose chase. But my Hymer coach-built has both that and two additional inline drains. (The boiler also appears to be mounted nearside and fairly forward from pictures)

I'm not familiar with the particular Hymer PVC conversion, but I think it has a Truma heater (possibly diesel). You mention checking two valves - are these screw top valves located in the hot and cold pipes?(red and blue traced respectively possibly underfloor - internal, that is). If so, there is most likely an additional, third, drain (automatic, blue, near the heater, and with a "turnbuckle" on the top and button on the side). May be hidden under/behind a flap, but even then it should be easily accessible fro internally. Your description matches the two inline valves I have on my Hymer. If that is so it's worth looking for the boiler dump valve, which may well be open If not, it may be a bit more serious. I'm on a Stellplatz in Germany at the moment. Someone with a better connection might be kind enough to post a picture to help you identify if you have one.

I know it's probably not what you want to hear, but "ripping" the CDs to MP3 is definitely your best option. You would, of course, need a computer with a CD drive and some storage, and a USB stick. You can rip them in batches, and copy the results (and any new additional results) to the USB stick as and when you like, simply adding as you've got time. With a PC, ripping is relatively simple, and what may not be obvious to you is that the CD isn't played in real time, it's generally no more than a couple of minutes per CD to rip. Once on the usb stick, inserted into the correct slot in the radio, the XZENT should provide you a decent menu system to select and play. No CDs to carry or change. I have in excess of 300 albums on a 64Gb stick (on an older XZENT)