Steve928

https://www.wheelfitment.eu/car.html is my go-to site for this kind of information. Although primarily for cars it does include LCVs and the Transit data concurs with Dereks' post: https://www.wheelfitment.eu/car/Ford/Transit Custom 3.3t (2013 - ).html

Yes, my SBS trailer does - it's where the rear board and the side markers join.

Stellantis press release of yesterday confirms that Ducato MY2024 gets a new 8 speed auto, presumably the in-house one they've just developed at a cost of over $200m. "The extensive line-up of diesel engines is confirmed with the latest generation of MultiJet engines, compliant with Euro 6E regulations, always at the top for performance and durability: 6-speed manual transmission paired with three power levels (120, 140, 180 hp) and new 8-speed automatic transmission in combination with 140 and 180 hp. The Heavy-Duty range with Euro VI Step E homologation is articulated in the two power levels 140 and 180 hp, both combined with 6-speed manual transmission and the 8-speed automatic transmission."

No, there's no 'must' about it. It's become a common recommendation, based upon the idea that the world will be a safer place overall if all vehicles tend towards to under rather than oversteer. It's in a similar vein to the ETRTO 80p.s.i camper tyre recommendation that calculates that overall there will be less tyre-related accidents if everyone over-inflates their tyres (above the pressure required to support the load they are carrying) to cater for the minority who overload them. Intelligent and competent drivers are perfectly free to choose to ignore both recommendations.

"The new unit will offer flexibility, as it can be combined with combustion engines, as well as mild hybrid and plug-in hybrid propulsion systems, the company said"

Yes it does sound odd. Here's what I recall reading; 229 millions Euros on an 8 speed trans for some EV models but also ICE. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.auto123.com/en/news/amp/stellantis-229-million-new-transmission-electrification/68570/

I fear that there's not much experience of the D6 on here. It's of little help but all I can offer is that on all the diesel heaters I've had (7 or 8 Eber, Webasto, Chinese) the dosing pump is pulsed and trying to measure voltage at the pump connector with a multimeter doesn't work.

Haven't Stellantis just spent millions developing a universal (ICE+EV) 8 speed auto, due on line early 2023? If so then perhaps that's the route they'll take with the Ducato.

Try it with the system pressurised by the water pump, if you haven't already; the button pops out more easily if there is pressure in the system.

So just the sole video then and everyone claiming it's true, it's true, exclamation mark.. 40 years an embedded systems programmer and I stil fail to see why anyone would use a variable of no consequence. The heat generated by the introduction of uncombusted hydrocarbons into the oxidation catalyst is so powerful that it beggars belief that a mere 70 degree max (?) variation in outside temperature could have any effect. I guess I'll have to disconnect the temperature sensor and try.

Varying post-injections quantities are used to regulate the DPF temperature to cicra 600C. In practice the ECM is always chasing the game by milliseconds and I've seen 580-670 in practice, but constantly varying. Given such near-instant power to generate heat in the DPF itself I still fail to see why minor (in comparison to internal DPF temperature, which the ECU knows) outside temperature variations are of any importance, especially when the DPF has c. 300-400 degree exhaust gases passing it through it anyway; it couldn't give a fud about the outside temperature.

Please give a precise and clear explanation of the logic that backs up your statement.

My point is that it doesn't need to (know the outside temperature). If it can generate 600C DPF temperature at will then why is the outside temperature of any interest?

Seen this posted everywhere and I'm tempted to think it's O'Reillys having a laugh and seeing if they can create an internet myth; I can't think of a reason why ambient temperature would be important to the DPF regen procedure when injection timing and post-injections can produce the required 600C in seconds irrespective of ambient and coolant temperatures. I'm tempted to disconnect my mirror and watch the result.. I've seen a regen take place with coolant temperature pinned on zero and ambient at -10 degrees so I can't see what the problem would be.

Plus be sure not to use 'contaminated Adblue'. Onecal can advise on how to detect Adblue contamination.

Yes I am. This video is Alu-Tech wall panel assembly that pre-dates the motorhomes and at 1:07 they were using "all composite plastic material" even then.

The elements in the roof and walls have always been plastic - although they refer to it as 'reconstituted wood' elsewhere. I think it's actually compressed sawdust in resin and is not a problem. The elements in the floor remain softwood though and can be seen (to this day) where cutouts such as access hatches for tanks, gas drops etc. have been cut into the floor and also all around the floor edge where strands of rough-sawn timber are visible.

All Bailey motorhomes are of Alu-Tech construction, John. Alu-Tech refers only to the jointing system of aluminium extrusions and bolted clamps used between walls and roof. This Alu-Tech box then gets sat upon a plywood, softwood and EPS floor (albeit with GRP lower skin). The only 2 advances in construction that I'm aware of (and I do keep up to date) are that after the first 'SE' range they extended the outer wall skin down to the level of the lower floor skin so that water running down the walls and getting in behind the skirts would run off to ground rather than into the floor structure. Then in c. 2018 they began painting a grey sealer (unknown, epoxy perhaps) onto the outer surface of the softwood floor surround.

Like Adiebt we had a great time with our Bailey and only moved on after 6 years and 70K miles. Unlike Adiebt though personally I wouldn't buy another as the materials and construction mean that you are always at risk of damage through water ingress, for example: - expanded polystyrene (EPS) insulation throughout that can retain and transmit moisture - softwood timber battens and edging to the floor - walls sitting directly on the plywood floor (as opposed to the floor being isolated in an extrusion or jointing system) - budget rubber framed windows (proud of the walls) relying on a mastic tape seal. If you're a capable and conscientious owner who can monitor and keep on top of any developing problems then they can be a great van but unfortunately almost every week on the FB Groups sees another disappointed owner with a damp Bailey. Last week's horror pictures for example, attached.

It should have one. Ask your dealer for it and he'll probably do what mine did - get the keys for another new van on the premises and nick it from there. Perhaps there's only ever been one missing VIN cover plate, mine, and it all started from there 3 years ago 🙂.

I agree, I managed to change the internal TPMS sensors into my 225/75R16C winter wheels using the very common bright red manual 'tyre machine' to break the bead and a block of wood to hold the bead down while the valve+sensor is installed.

That usage (like this) is called quoting a post and isn't directed at anyone; it makes it clear to all readers of the new post to which previous discussion points the new post refers. Directing a post at a particular person would be, for example, starting a post with 'Hi {insert username here}'. I hope that helps any forum user who isn't up to speed on forum etiquette.

Mine (and the OP's, given the 116 p.s.i. that he quotes) are the higher pressure van/truck/whatever model - there are car versions available with a lower max. pressure. The point, surely, is that for a unit with a 116 p.s.i. maximum pressure, a 37 p.s.i. highest low pressure alarm is inadequate; I would estimate that anyone pumping their tyres up to anywhere even approaching the 116 p.s.i. that the unit supports would like to be notified of a deflation prior to the tyre reaching 37 p.s.i.

I have a unit (used it for a double-axle trailer not for the motorhome) that looks exactly like yours but with external sensors that screw onto the valve in place of the dust cap. As with yours, the highest low pressure alarm programmable is 37 p.s.i. That aside it's been a great unit and is still working after 4 or 5 years. Unfortunately the sensors do eat batteries though (max. 6 months) seemingly because they do not have a sleep mode; I've just turned it on now and all 4 trailer wheels have reported their pressure within a couple of minutes despite the trailer not having moved for a month or so. Not a big problem with external sensors and easily-replaceable coin cells, but it would be less than ideal should your internal sensors have similarly short battery life.

A panel van conversion will almost certainly come with short arm mirrors. The attached picture shows the 3 available mirror sizes. Personally I wouldn't choose white mirror protectors if the van is painted white; I find them less visible as they tend to get lost in the white sides of the approaching vehicle. Mirror protectors in a contrasting colour seem to be the easiest to spot.