aka4ajax Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Does anyone know how to or has experience with putting a switch inline with the 240v supply to the 3-way Domestic fridge. As I would like to ensure it runs on gas rather than switching over to 240v when my MH is switched over to the inverter. I have put a breaker to the Hook up point and a switch to the vehicles onboard battery charger, other wise the inverter tries to charge the batteries that power it, in an ever ending cycle. But now realise the Domestic 3-way fridge is a draw too, so I want to isolate it, any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Hi, First of all it is a DOMETIC fridge, no 'S' as in household! There should already be an isolator somewhere near the fridge. The isolator in our AT is in the under seat locker immediately adjacent to the fridge. Try searching in all your cupboards and lockers. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 I assume the OP has an AES fridge (automatic energy selection). This can normally be overridden by just selecting the gas setting when not on EHU. Am I missing something here ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spireite Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 What model of Dometic fridge is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aka4ajax Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 I am not sure of the model, but will be looking at the breaker in the heat exchange cupboard to isolate the 240v from there. That can be switched in conjunction with the Hook up and Electrobox charger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 A question, what are you trying to power with the inverter that warrants all these modifications to the standard wiring? Surely would it not have been simpler to have a stand alone socket powered solely by the inverter? Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aka4ajax Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 I tried the single socket with extension lead, but it was not tidy or practical.We have 2 tv's, multiple charging outlets for phones and a laptop and a satellite box oh and a multimedia player, so the kids can watch movies. So as I mentioned were big electric consumers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 aka4ajax - 2016-08-22 7:55 P We have 2 tv's, multiple charging outlets for phones and a laptop and a satellite box oh and a multimedia player, Ironically everything which could have been run off 12 volts if the right gear was fitted initially! Converting 12 volts to 230 volts to run things like you have listed is actually a very inefficient way of doing it. IMO you would have been better off sourcing 12 volt items and forgetting the inverter. Just my thought you appreciate. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aka4ajax Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 I appreciate its your opinion Keith, but that's how it is.The tv's came with the MH the Chargers were supplied by phones as 240v and the media player is also 240v as is the sat box.So it would be an expensive upgrade to swap it all out. All I need to do is turn off 240v to fridge and onboard charger and anyhow it's already run I g sweet, this would just give me more time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandncaravan Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 We would mirror Keith's thoughts as that is one heck of a load to take out of the batteries, unless you have a big bank of them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 As Robbo has advised, some Dometic AES fridges (and Thetford SES fridges) have a manual capability that ‘forces’ selection of gas, 12V or 230V as the power-source and overrides the appliance’s automatic selection. Not sure if early Dometic AES fridges had this capability (It should be made clear in Neil’s fridge’s manual) but there would be little point complicating matters by fitting extra switches if they aren’t necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aka4ajax Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 aandncaravan - 2016-08-23 12:10 AMWe would mirror Keith's thoughts as that is one heck of a load to take out of the batteries, unless you have a big bank of them? I will be looking to reduce the power consumption of the TV's as at present they are consuming 190w and 89w each. So when the budget allows 12v ones are on the shopping list. As for the batteries I took advice from your website I think and kept the bank down just below the maximum my charger is capable of, which is 2 x 115Ahr batteries. These are charged by the 2 x 100w solar panels that again have the recommended schultz regulator for my MH (Burtsner Elegance i820) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aka4ajax Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 Derek Uzzell - 2016-08-23 8:51 AMAs Robbo has advised, some Dometic AES fridges (and Thetford SES fridges) have a manual capability that ‘forces’ selection of gas, 12V or 230V as the power-source and overrides the appliance’s automatic selection.Not sure if early Dometic AES fridges had this capability (It should be made clear in Neil’s fridge’s manual) but there would be little point complicating matters by fitting extra switches if they aren’t necessary. When i get home next time (working abroad) I will check the fridge, but i think it just has the temp level selector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veletron Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 If your inverter is powering the fridge when turned on rather than just powering the sockets then it has not been wired in correctly. The mains DPDT (double pole double throw) switch-over relay that allows both hookup and inverter to be fed to the sockets should be wired into only the socket feed. On most MH, the socket feed as its own switched fuse on the consumer unit. the other kit (fridge, boiler, mains charger) runs off another fuse. Best speak to an auto-electrician and get it wired in properly! I have my inverter back-wired into all the sockets also, It means mains throughout the van rather than just at one location. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aka4ajax Posted August 31, 2016 Author Share Posted August 31, 2016 Thanks Nigel,The double pile throw switch/relay you mentioned, is it standard or did you have it specially installed. I had an electrician wire in a similar relay for me but it was a nightmare. I think he wired in an industrial unit as you could hear it buzzing when the relay threw over the power to inverter. So am very interested to know more and will look closer at where the inverter is wired into the consumer unit, because at present if hook up is established we then need to reconnect the lead to the charger.! All very complicated and over engineered to make it not practical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veletron Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 Nope, this is not standard, it was DIY. Mine is just a mains switchover relay from maplin on a plug-in base. The feed TO the van sockets goes to the 'common' eg central pair of terminals the feed FROM the inverter goes on the normally closed (NC) pair and the feed FROM the consumer unit goes to the normally open (NO) pair. The connections to the energising coil on the relay link in with the normally open (NO) pair. NB: DO NOT GET THIS WRONG - if you feed hookup mains into the output of the inverter you might end up with a fire in the van! if you feed mains down the hookup cable from the inverter you might get a hold of the pins on the plug and electrocute yourself! If unsure, speak to a professional! This is the relay I used: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/round-base-10a240v-ac-dpdt-relay-jg60q Its only 10A, so you should change the consumer unit fuse to suit. The fuse in the mains plug that goes into the inverter should be chosen to suit the inverters max power output (eg 5A for a 1KW inverter). Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aka4ajax Posted August 31, 2016 Author Share Posted August 31, 2016 Thanks again Nigel, if you have a chance can you send me a photo with the pins and connections marked.If your MH is not available no worries I think I got the setup and am confident I can do this. I have most the wiring from the last relay that was installed and I unplugged.So will have a go in a week or so next time I work on the MH, thanks again.Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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