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Engine Oil X290 2015 Euro 5 Ducato


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I have found some older threads on here, but wondered what the current advice is regards engine oil. My van is coming up on 2-years, and I am not given to paying a the garage do do a job I can do myself for 1/3 the cost !


The filters are obvious, but should I stick to the fiat recommended 'Selenia WR 5W/30' @ £Loads or an alternative? On my old van, I used Granville oil cause the local car parts place had it. Would this be OK: https://granvilleoil.com/prodInfo?pID=281


The recommended Selenia can be had from MyTires for £18.80 per 2 litre bottle: http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/oshop.pl?dsco=110&hersuchen=1&vehicle_disabled=1&oil_vehicle_brand=&oil_vehicle_model=&oil_vehicle_type=&oil_fzgid=&oil_category=engine-oil&oil_brand=selenia&oil_release=&oil_viscosity=5w-30&oil_field_of_operation=&oil_characteristic=&suchen=Angebote+anzeigen


Also seen COMMA: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-XFP5L-X-Flow-Type-Liter/dp/B00DYTO5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1492087756&sr=1-1&keywords=comma+5W30+C2


All are C2 rated. Not sure about the fully synthetic vs semi synthetic though.


Also, any issues using an oil pump tube down the dip-stick hole (I bought a pump designed for this from Lidl! for 13 quid) rather than removing the sump plug. I know this is how garages change the oil, and it would likely make less mess!



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The oil recommended by Fiat for Euro 6 Ducato X290s is SELENIA WR FORWARD SAE 0W-30




and the Fiat Profesionnal agent that reccently serviced my 2015 X290-based Ducato told me that the above oil has been retrospectively approved for pre-Euro 6 X290 diesel powerplants.


This link lists two potential alternatives






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First things first.

I seriously doubt that your pump will be strong enough to suck all of the oil out of the sump and so would advise that the sump plug should be removed and all oil drained from a warm engine.


About the oil.....


I have two handbooks in front of me; one from a 65 plate Ducato and another from a 16 plate. Both are Euro 5 vehicles. The earlier registered vehicle came with a handbook that states 0W30 oil and the later registered vehicle says 5W30!


It seems obvious that the later registered vehicle was built before the earlier one, or that they were getting rid of the old handbooks! In any case, both oils are of the same 'ACEA C2' specification. I understand that the oil spec of late Euro 5's was changed in anticipation of the Euro 6 vehicles and for this reason, no matter what the handbook says; i have been using 5W30. If my Euro 6 vehicles ever turn up, i will probably use this oil in those too. The oil i use is Fuchs Supreme Plus Low Saps and it conforms to ACEA C2 and Fiat's specification 9.55535-S1. (There is another version of this oil that carries Ford specs and not Fiat but other than that, nobody can tell me what the difference is. Both also carry numerous other manufacturer's specifications.) It costs less than half what the Selenia WR PE oil does, and i suspect the Selenia WR Forward is pricier still. All Low Saps oils are fully synthetic, so as long as the oil bears the correct ACEA spec and ideally also carries the Fiat spec; it will be fine.

In an 'emergency' any Low Saps ACEA 2 oil could be used to top up.


The reason for Fiat changing the spec from 5 to 0W30 is for a miniscule difference in viscosity during cold starts and to make the engine almost unmeasurably more economical while being able to charge much more for the oil. At the same time, during those cold starts and as the engine wears there will be more oil able to get past the pistons and end up in the exhaust, clogging up your particulate filter. They sell those too. It is extremely difficult and expensive to determine the small difference in the viscosity of the oil once it has been used and manufacturers don't do it; even in the event of a major warranty claim. Since the internal design of the engine has not changed since Euro 4, i am completely confident that 0W30 oil is actually snake oil and is completely unnecessary in these engines.


Obviously this is my opinion, and you follow my advice at your own risk but i hope that you can appreciate my point that this oil could do more harm than good and is not worth the expense.

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Cheers for the replies. Is 'Fuchs Supreme Plus ' the right spelling. Canna find an oil by that name on the fuchs website...


Assume its this one: https://www.fuchs.com/uk/en/special/product/product/titan-gt1-pro-c-2-sae-5w-30-6/


Good price too with 20L for the price of 6L of Selenia - https://www.123engineoil.co.uk/Engine-oil/Fuchs/Titan-GT1-Pro-C-2-5W-30/p-OIL-89?Country=OELUK&ID=sea_oel_uk_Froogle_Shopping&gclid=Cj0KEQjww7zHBRCToPSj_c_WjZIBEiQAj8il5LAMuarGVzh9_bvf21aVfweo-LGAQVJxq-qKRpIx_MMaAt2l8P8HAQ


As for the pump, i'll use that on warmed oil then take the plug out too for good measure!



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Any Garage that uses Dipstick Tube Oil extraction should be avoided, in my opinion.

Even if the suction tube actually reaches the bottom of the sump which is not always easy to establish, suction will be lost before all the old oil has risen up the tube. Many sumps have baffle plates and large Oil pick up pipes which often have large circular Strainers, any of which might block the extraction tube from reaching the sump base. Just because the tube won't go down any further doesn't mean it has reached the bottom.


It is usually the last few millimetres of Oil which are likely to be the worst, containing the sludge that settles.

When Hot Oil is conventionally drained through the Sump Plug it takes with it the sludge and heavier debris.

Dipstick Tube extract is about faster turnaround for the Garage so improving profits, not about the best for your engine.



Oil Viscosity:

This reply isn't just aimed at Euro 5/6 engines but the basic principals apply to all Diesel/Petrol's.


If you look back a few years most manufacturers had different thickness Oils for different Climates.


It was not unusual to see in the Handbook a few years ago, different viscosity Oils based on the ambient temperature for your region, see an example chart below.

For example a thinner 5w/30 might be specified for Norway and a 'thicker' 15w/50 for South Africa with the hotter temperatures.


The tendency of the last few years has been towards 'Water thin' oil to reduce engine drag in the search for better fuel economy and lower emmisions.

While Oil chemistry has advanced at a huge rate in the last 45 years since Duckhams 20/50 was launched, it is often the viscosity of an Oil that dictates it's cost to a larger extent.

As noted by Nick the 5w/30 is a lot less money..


A modern Fully Synthetic Oil will tolerate far higher Turbo temperatures without oxidising than Castrol R from the 1950's could dream of. These characteristics are vital to an engine and not generally negotiable, but the viscosity can be varied a little to match the region, exactly as it always was.

There may be a 0.0002% difference in emmissions but when the engine is throwing out Carcingens anyway it is not a major disaster.


ACEA C2 is the recommended Fiat Euro5/6 oil.

ACEA C3 is similar to the above, but with minor Fuel economy differences. ACEA C3 is a close match to the API SN standard.



A 5w/30 Oil is still a really thin Oil, I would do what Nick does, and I actually do in my own vehicles, and have been since Duckhams 15/50 became unavailable.



My Car manufacturer specifies a 10/40 Oil, but it runs much quieter on hot days in the Summer on a 15/50 or 15/40 which is the viscosity specified for the hotter Asian market climate. If I emigrated to Iceland, I would need to run a different Viscosity grade Oil in Winter, probably a 5/30, etc. Remember this is exactly the same engine, with different thickness Oils for different ambient temperatures.


If I had a Motorhome I was taking to warmer climes than the UK I would only use a 5w/30.




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I am confident that the oil- dipstick enters the oil pan. But it is not a straight tube.And therefore attacked by oil which can misllead you about the real oil level. As long you do not put salad oil in leave the quality to the oil company. That is too complex to discuss.What really matters: Have some cans all the time whit you about two liters.Familiar yourselve of the dash warnings regarding lack of oil. Enymy number one is your crankcase ventilation system which turns your oil into a black color. Our turbo and intercooler feel this. Check your oil level horizontal and regular.
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