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eberspacher timing out


Biggles181

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Hello All.

Thanks for reading my post.

I have an eberspacher with the 801 controller and it works really well in that it heats the van up and its nice and cosy, however it seems to time out.  It will be running fine then for no reason I can see, it will shut down.  This is annoying as when we go out it doesn't maintain the heat in the van and the same overnight.  

Is this a time out thing or is it something else?  For example an internal overheat shut down.  If this were the case would it not restart one the heater cooled down.

Suggestions greatly appreciated.

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I'm not familiar with recent eberspachers because, being a cheapskate, I bought Chinese copies for about a tenth of the price.  But they are so similar that many parts are interchangeable, and if you search 'chinese diesel heater' on youtube or whatever there is an enourmous amount of info of hugely varying quality

This guy produces the best I have found

As with engine faults, best place to start is usually to check the fault codes

But don't take them to literally 

Just take them as a guide where to look.

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When I had the same symptoms as you describe it was due to cavitation in the fuel pump producing air bubbles, which I solved by mounting the pump vertically. (part 11 in John's excellent videos)

The minimum 15 degree upward slope suggested for the fuel pump mounting in the instructions proved to be not enough.  It had worked fine for many hours till the air bubbles built up)

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2 minutes ago, Keithl said:

Eberspacher heaters can be sensitive to voltage so what is your battery voltage when the heater cuts out? Could you try turning on a battery charger or starting the engine to increase the voltage to see if this helps?

Keith.

Could well be voltage as Keith suggests - the heater may restart when the battery had recovered.

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Just had our Eberspacher repaired after experiencing the same problems. The diagnostic check (at an Eberspacher agent) showed voltage drop when starting which was traced to a faulty 6way connector near the battery rather than low voltage at the battery. Connecting block was removed and wires permanently joined - all good now.

David

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5 hours ago, John52 said:

Could well be voltage as Keith suggests - the heater may restart when the battery had recovered.

Hi guy's Keithl is correct the other Reason could be the breather filter is blocked,take the cover of clean and replace,on the case of low voltage once the heater start's it doesn't use any power from the leisure batteries it only needs power to start the burner hope this helps.

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1 hour ago, poe said:

Hi guy's Keithl is correct the other Reason could be the breather filter is blocked,take the cover of clean and replace,on the case of low voltage once the heater start's it doesn't use any power from the leisure batteries it only needs power to start the burner hope this helps.

Still needs power to circulate the air and pump and vaporise the diesel so that it burns 

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Yes on mine it would try igniting about eight times (the diagnostic graph shows the eight drops in voltage as it tried each time then returning to 12+v) before it then gives up and turns off at the panel. As I said earlier, mine was not due to a poor battery but a faulty connector block - I presume this increased the resistance?

David

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Seems to me that Voltage seems to be the culprit.

I have 280ah of LiPo4 batteries. Battery generally read charge voltage of 13.8v, this is during the day with some solar coming in. It doesn't drop much overnight. As I type the heater has cut out, set for 22, temperature in the van is showing 18. So I have done a manual restart. Voltage dropped to 13.7V and the battery meter showed initial 9.4amp draw dropping to 6 amp after about 30 seconds.

I am going to put a battery charger on tonight to maintain voltage to rule that out.

I read somewhere on another forum that these sometimes have a pre-programmed timeout built in.

Thanks for all the input so far though.

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At 13.8v I would be surprised if it was voltage drop purely from the supply. When they did my diagnostic test he did say there had to be a voltage of above 10.5 (I think) but mine was dropping to something like 8v at the heater control. The battery still read 12.5+ at the terminals but, as I mentioned, it was a faulty connector block interrupting the supply.

David

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Mine seems to run for about 10mins and then gradually comes to a halt. After about 5-10 mins with no output it starts up again and then seems to keep going until either I switch it off or the thermostat cuts in as the temperature is reached. Haven’t checked battery readings, not sure if it runs off the leisure batteries (2 x 95amp AGM) or the starter but was on EHU at the time which keeps the leisure batteries charged but if I need the starter battery on charge need to push a switch on the control panel.

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