headscratching_draig Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Hello internet, Please can I have some ideas on the removal of a very heavy drop down motorhome bed? The bed is screwed either side into the wall panel and the moving hinges are vinyl bushes. The image attached is one of these bushes. My plan is to attempt to split the bed down to a more managable size so it can be moved inside the van without having to do anything drastic such as take the front window out! Does this hinge come apart? Looking at it there seems to be some form vinyl bush slides over welded spike on the wall plate. Plan B was to use ratched straps x 2 to attempt to squeeze the frame sideways to allow wriggle room but I think this could damage the moving hinges/hinge arms. Any pointers or alternative suggestions on how i can get the bed off the wall would be most gratefully received. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Welcome to the Out&AboutLive forums, Jamie. First things first - please state the make, exact model and age of the motorhome from which you want to remove the bed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 Rapido, 2004, 985F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidmac Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Hi, I think I have the same bed in my 966. Last year I had to replace one of the gas struts and to get the new one in had to drop the bed down. If I remember correctly the pivot bolt was removed and also one other bolt then the strut was detached. EXTREME care is needed around the strut, if it is under any pressure when released it can be lethal. I had to disassemble the bed to get the new strut on as it needed to be slightly compressed to get on without taking the bed apart Regards David TAKE GREAT CARE !!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 (edited) Hi David, Thanks for your message. How did you disassemble the bed please? Did you do this in-situ? I note your warning about the strut. I have managed to reduce the strut length and tension by removing the dampener bolt which limits the pivot. If I can split the frame apart from the pivot hinges (shown in the image) then I will be well into the job. Thanks in advance Jamie Edited March 8 by headscratching_draig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidmac Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Hi, I didn’t have to take the bed apart, just take out the two bolts to get enough length to fit the strut. It was a year ago so memory fades but I think if the two bolts and the strut on each side are removed the bed could be removed . It is heavy and awkward so I think it’s at least a two man job. You could always pm me your phone number and we could talk about it Regards David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 Thanks for the offer. The strut removal seems ok but I don't think that will assist with the bed removal. One wonders how it was installed into the van in the first place..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Hi If you are unsure , I would advise contact a Rapido dealer for advice as it not a one person job as David has advised for safety alone Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidmac Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Hi, you say you need to repair some rot in your m/h , I assume there’s a leak somewhere. Do you know where the leak is, roof or walls? Might need to keep an eye out on my m/h Regards David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 (edited) The leak was coming from above the passenger door and the nearside window. This has then tracked upward. As the rot has become worse so the weight of the bed pulls inwards. This then makes sealing the window/door futile. We plan on removing the driver side inner window frame covers today to allow more room to move the frame at an angle and thus move it. We are also going to remove the thermal blinds and tracking to prevent damage. I can report back that I have removed the struts and linkage bar with relative ease. I will document the whole removal and repair process for others. Edited March 9 by headscratching_draig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 Hi As you have removed the struts safely and locking bar and it looks like your determined to go ahead with removal , Make up an "expansion bar" from wood and spread the two walls slightly over the bed (as you would do when repairing a bodyshell of a car) Put short 4"x2" on each side of the walls to spread the load and to prevent damage to the walls on each side of the spreader beam timber or timbers Take careful measurements and don't overdo it. I am sorry i have not got the exact measurements to hand Undo bed completely and with the aid of a helper remove the unit with the spreader timber beam in place Be careful as it's heavy. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 Thanks for the pointer on spreader bar support. The rot on the near side looks extensive and we intend to replace the whole inner side above the door so will be unable to put a support panel here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 The intention is to leave the door and window well alone and repair above. This will be from the white box above down and across to the right above the window and door. Advice on the board to replace would be helpful. If we cannot find a premade insulation board then we intend to use 3mm marine ply with an insulation sandwiched between. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 Hi OK , Try always to replace like with like if possible and the best quality you can get for the repair. I am sorry I cannot advise who in your area may have the materials you need , but I am sure some of the coachbuilders in your area may be able to advise if you are unsure Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 You could try O'Leary's for the board but not sure how you would transport it if a large sheet! https://www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 Ok it is possible to do! 3 able people. Utilising the top seatbelt clip to take the weight and 3" x 2" timber to support the middle. Once the side screws holding the frame forward are taken out the whole bed frame can be rotated forward. Then held in place resting on dashboard by another supporting 3 x 2. Huge progress. Note the paper over the end panel bracket to prevent damage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 Supported resting on dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 (edited) Hi Well done Just be very careful you take all measurements across , Be very careful to use the same thickness of board on the wall if possible ,for easy refitting of the bed unit The use of a small four wheeled hydraulic floor jack under the raising and lowering support post will greatly help in re positioning the unit Regards Edited March 9 by onecal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 The rot has tracked upwards from the window. There is a thin veneer of ply left on the aluminium external side. We will use wood hardener on this and then fill the internal space with marine ply. Interestingly this section of the van was ply and not insulated which surprises me for an A Class MH. Externally has been sealed with Sika. Will now use directed fan heat and dehumidifier to dry out any further internal dampness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 Hi A lot of the bed area's are not in overhead walls , Important to use same thickness of board in that area Otherwise serious modifications would needed to be made to the bed unit Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 2 hours ago, onecal said: Hi Well done Just be very careful you take all measurements across , Be very careful to use the same thickness of board on the wall if possible ,for easy refitting of the bed unit The use of a small four wheeled hydraulic floor jack under the raising and lowering support post will greatly help in re positioning the unit Regards Good idea on the trolley jack. I might end up building a platform in the cab to jack from so we can take the weight of the frame. Noted on panel thickness. Will probably sand back a thicker board to correct depth and then bond to wood hardened layer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 18 minutes ago, onecal said: Hi A lot of the bed area's are not in overhead walls , Important to use same thickness of board in that area Otherwise serious modifications would needed to be made to the bed unit Regards Surprising. One would think an A Class is winterised. We could take this opportunity of adding a thermal layer to the fiberglass cab area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 (edited) Hi Again be very careful of your measurements as I have mentioned earlier . No need for a platform Just use a timber prop 3x3 (or as you are using 3x2)Wide flat board under the bed unit and wide flat board on the floor under the wheels of the floor jack Regards Edited March 9 by onecal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 I have made a cardboard stencil of the rotten panel. Measure width, depth and difference in height off the passenger door. Marked pencil off on the good drivers side. Confident we are on course for a good refit. Much thanks for all ideas and support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headscratching_draig Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 Created cardboard stencil template to cut marine ply from. I used 2 x 12mm sections from the template to fit flush to existing internal board that was good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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