Keithl Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 Your fridge looks identical to the one in my AT which is an RM7361. Here are the installation instructions and a snip of the wiring block you show. https://www.electrolux-ui.com/DocumentDownLoad.aspx?DocURL=2006\822\610001EN.pdf But it looks like Alan beat me to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 7 Author Share Posted September 7 thankyou all for your help and advice, hopefully when I get the multimeter I will be able to see what is actually working! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 (edited) When you do Remember safety always disconnect first any AC input to your motorhome before testing Then check with your meter the Heater for 12V DC supply as per photo attached for a 12v supply when the engine is running Remember The coupling relay and the three-way fridge relay are enabled directly by the D+ signal (or engine ignition key). The coupling relay recharges the service battery through the alternator with the engine running. The fridge relay powers the three-way fridge at 12V, with the engine running. - Both relays are excited when the ignition battery exceeds 13.4V and automatically de-excite when the engine is turned off or the battery ignition voltage is below 12.5V. Please do not confuse with other terminal strips on other fridge models, as yours has an AC 220 V supply on the right as per photo attached Regards Edited September 7 by onecal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judy1 Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 Well spotted One Cal ! If you looked at the other previous post terminal strip diagram , one could easily assume the three connections on the right were DC One (A) to the ground heating element DC and (B) to the plus heating DC.If the (AC)wire was live this could have been a very dangerous situation on testing for the OP.-original poster J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 (edited) 10 hours ago, onecal said: When you do Remember safety always disconnect first any AC input to your motorhome before testing Then check with your meter the Heater for 12V DC supply as per photo attached for a 12v supply when the engine is running Remember The coupling relay and the three-way fridge relay are enabled directly by the D+ signal (or engine ignition key). The coupling relay recharges the service battery through the alternator with the engine running. The fridge relay powers the three-way fridge at 12V, with the engine running. - Both relays are excited when the ignition battery exceeds 13.4V and automatically de-excite when the engine is turned off or the battery ignition voltage is below 12.5V. Please do not confuse with other terminal strips on other fridge models, as yours has an AC 220 V supply on the right as per photo attached Regards YES I agree. This reinforces what I wrote in an earlier post. Unfortunately the terminal strip in the photo is not the one shown in the Dometic manual, which is relatively inaccessible on top of the fridge. Alan Edited September 8 by Alanb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 (edited) Yes but this is the photo the Author sent of his fridge connector block and wiring Sometime the wiring may have been changed , so it's important to be able to read and understand the wiring in front of you as presented to you and never assume it's the same as diagram or indeed other similar appliances This may help in preventing a serious accident So extra care is needed Regards Edited September 8 by onecal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Apologies for posting the picture of the wrong connector. I saw the connector and posted hurriedly not realising it was the wrong one! Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 8 Author Share Posted September 8 (edited) Hi, the multimeter came and I tested all the fuses in the box behind drivers seat. All fuses tested ok and all where getting 12.48v except the 15a 'AUX' which had about 13.6v and when engine running 14.65. I tested the red and the white wires to the fridge element before and after engine on and got about 0.05v both times. The purple I got 0.21 both times. I tested them by putting the black probe to a bolt in body then red probe to the connector block screw. (if this is wrong let me know). however, I don't think I am getting any power to the fridge. (the main engine battery was 12.89v before starting then 14.44v after. I also switched the fridge to the 12v setting. Edited September 8 by antony driffill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Hi Keithl Can happen to the best of us . Who knows what changes have been made to the appliance over the years Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 (edited) I would check your wiring for good connections on the block in the photo you provided If you look where I edited it the violet fridge supply wire does not look so good You may need to make and break (re do the connetion) Also Check those earths (Black/White) The fuse box may need to be fully checked and tested for resistance (it may be corroded at the rear) There is a lot more that can be wrong , but check the basics first Regards Edited September 8 by onecal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Hi Does the 12v light give a flash when you select 12v ? Or is lighting ? Or doing nothing? Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 8 Author Share Posted September 8 the 12v light does absolutely nothing when switched to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 (edited) Did you check the wiring and earths ( neg' ). I maked as in photo you sent .White and Black ? Edited September 8 by onecal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labby Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 There should be power shown if you put the + probe on the violet cable and the black probe on the white/black terminal screw as your control has power , try using the same terminal screw when checking the red cab (engine running) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Test as per attached photo and as per Labby Try this first Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 8 Author Share Posted September 8 Hi, unless I am doing things wrong, all I got from the purple DC supply (red probe) and the white -DC (black probe) was 0.2v, I got nothing on the -DC and +DC test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 You need to start following the wires back through the floor and see where they go. They should either go to the Power Supply Unit (under seat or in locker?) or under the bonnet to the battery area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Did you open the connections and check they are good, not corroded or burnt ? Then re rest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 8 Author Share Posted September 8 I will check them all now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 (edited) Are you getting no voltage on the Violet/Purple supply to fridge? Again this connection looks a little suspect as maybe the negative earths Edited September 8 by onecal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 It may be of help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 8 Author Share Posted September 8 Hi, I have checked the connector- no issues, tracing the wires, they seem to cross under the floor to under the dining seat where the water heater is, joining that wiring and then through into the fusebox behind the drivers seat. There is power to each of those fuses, but could the problem be inside that fuse box leading away to the fridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labby Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 as the controls are working (apart from the 12v indicator) the electronics must be getting a power supply which should be via the violet cable , unless a different electronics power supply (or earth connection) has been added . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 8 Author Share Posted September 8 Hi I have tried a voltage tester on the cables (in the access panel) with and without the engine running and no alarm sounded, shouldn't It have worked if there was 12v running through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labby Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 (edited) Not sure which type of tester you have , but have you tried testing for voltage at the terminals with the fridge turned both on and off . It could also be worth trying a different earth point for the black probe , try the metal cabinet of the fridge. Edited September 8 by Labby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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