onecal Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 (edited) Hi There may be a 12v isolation switch fitted ???? Can you not give the previous owner a ring? He/She may be able to give you a heads up as a lot of changes may have been made over the years from the original Hope the diagram helps , but who knows what may have altered by whoever . That may not even be the orignal fridge Maybe you can put up some photos of your re connected supply wire (violet) to fridge itself and meter you are using Regards Edited September 8 by onecal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Again I hope this diagram helps your understanding a little more The coupling relay and the three-way fridge relay are enabled directly by the D+ signal (or engine ignition key). The coupling relay recharges the service battery through the alternator with the engine running. The fridge relay powers the three-way fridge at 12V, with the engine running. Both relays are excited when the ignition battery exceeds 13.4V and automatically de-excite when the engine is turned off or the battery ignition voltage is below 12.5V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 9 Author Share Posted September 9 Hi, I'm pretty sure the guy we bought it off doesn't know about the fridge 12v, as he never bothered sorting out the gas side to it either. When I get home from work I will have another look at your suggestions. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 Hi You are very welcome , I am a little puzzled as to your DC supply to fridge as you say you have sorted the gas side of things , as to why you got no reading (12v) on the supply wire (violet cable) marked for you in the photo . You need to establish were the fridge is getting it's DC supply from? Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 Antony, When the fridge is operating on gas does the 'GAS' light illuminate? If yes then the fridge must be getting a permanent 12 Volt supply! Suggest you recheck your voltage reading on the Purple and Black wires as this is the supply for the fridge electronics. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) Hi Keithl This is my point , it has to be getting a 12v supply from somewhere and that should be from the Violet coloured wire, (as per photo he supplied ,attached, I have marked the test points in for him and the 220V AC ) as Labby and Alanb also pointed out to him . Regards Edited September 9 by onecal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 9 Author Share Posted September 9 Ok, I have tried again and I did get 12.2v when testing the purple (red probe) and white/black (black probe), still not getting anything with the red wire though. It must of been user error yesterday... sorry! The gas light flashes whilst igniting, then goes solid yellow on ignition, the 220v goes solid green. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 14 minutes ago, antony driffill said: Ok, I have tried again and I did get 12.2v when testing the purple (red probe) and white/black (black probe), still not getting anything with the red wire though. You did have the engine running, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 9 Author Share Posted September 9 (edited) Hi, yes I did try it with the engine running and fridge selected to 12v... still no joy. Would there be the possibility that it was never wired up for 12v anyway? There are no extra wires or fuses connected to the leisure battery, all the usual places for relays/fuses have nothing. Is there any other people that have had a 3 way fridge only set up as a 2 way? Edited September 9 by antony driffill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 OK, you need to trace the thick red wire down through the floor and find where it is getting power from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 9 Author Share Posted September 9 Hi Keithl, tracing the wiring is a touch awkward, they appear to go upwards to the control panel, then down the inside of a cupboard, under the floor and across to the water heater area under the dining seat. This bunches up with several other cable conduits that ultimately go through to the cab fuse box. Tracing the wiring downwards from the inspection panel they appear to go through into the cupboard below the hob/grill, then across, presumably to the water heater area again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 Can you find the other end of the corrugated tubing based on the wire colours within it? Thick Red, Thick Black and Thin Grey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labby Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 Have you checked the rear of the habitation fuse box for a relay and also that the connections there are ok ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) Hi I have supplied a diagram of that for you . See attached You mentioned a buzzer >??? I think . Have you a step that rectracts when you start up? You say you had a dampness issue also Therfore very importanf to check the connection blocks in the fuse box like for example (JP8) Edited September 9 by onecal Info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 9 Author Share Posted September 9 Checked all the fuses and all ok, all were getting 12v to them as well. Have not unscrewed the fuse box as yet, we don't have a retractable step in the doorway. getting to dark outside to check/follow wiring anyway will have another look tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) OK You need to check the connector blocks JP11, JP8, JP9, JP2 etc' first You need to establish you have power as marked on diagram attached (with the engine running) Happy hunting Regards Edited September 9 by onecal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labby Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) When you check the connections on that you will find on the rear of the NE129 ? fuse box that onecal has suggested you will also need to check the JP8 connections linked to the fridge power supply , RE4 looks like it could be the fridge relay. If you find the NE129 board is faulty www.apuljackelectronics.co.uk list it in their cataloque as one they repair. Edited September 9 by Labby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) Sorry for my slow reply , got called away , NE 129/NE160 JP 8 (white connector)Fridge Output 1= Negative - 2= Gas Ignition Power + 3 = Output + Fridge Power Supply (AES) 4 = Output + Three way fridge Power Supply ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- JP 10 (Black connector) From Habitation Battery 1= Input + from Habitation Battery 2 = input + from Habitation Battery 3 = Input + from the battery charger 4 = Negative - ________________________________________________________________________________ JP 11 ( White connector)From Engine Battery /Alt' 1 = Input + from Engine Battery 2 = Input + from Engine Battery 3 = Input D + from Engine Alternator ( V with engine running) 4 = Negative - Edited September 9 by onecal attachment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 10 Author Share Posted September 10 (edited) Hi, took the fuse cover off (NE129) here are the photos. Tested JP11 and 1 and 2 had 12v, 3 had nothing with or without engine running and fridge set to 12v. As you can see from photos J6 (I presume the bayonet next to the yellow capacitor had no wire attached. J4 and J5 bayonets nothing as well. Does this indicate something i.e its not wired up? Edited September 10 by antony driffill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labby Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 It could be that the spare terminals are used when an AES fridge is fitted , yours is an MES type. (manual energy selection) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 10 Author Share Posted September 10 ok that could be possible, but when I tested JP11 I did not get any voltage on wire '3' even with the engine running, what does that suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labby Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 (edited) Possible loss of D+ signal , but the cable appears to be rather large for a signal cable , is the leisure battery being charged when the engine is running ? Edited September 10 by Labby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony driffill Posted September 11 Author Share Posted September 11 (edited) Hi Labby, thankyou for all your help! How do I check if the leisure battery is being charged with engine running? Edited September 11 by antony driffill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted September 11 Share Posted September 11 The surest way to check if the leisure-battery is being charged from the motorhome's alternator when the vehicle's engine is running is: 1: Assuming that the motorhome's motor has not been run for a while (say 4 hours) and the vehicle is not connected to a 240V hook-up, use a multi-meter to check the voltage of the battery by connecting the meter across the battery's terminals. If the battery is in good condition and well charged, the multi-meter reading should be around 12.6V. 2: Start the motorhome's engine and take another 'across-terminals' reading with the multi-meter. If the battery is receiving charge, the meter reading will have risen appreciably to around 14V. If the reading measured in 1 above has not increased, the battery is not receiving charge from the vehicle's alternator. Alternatively, as your motorhome has a NE101C3 control-panel, you may be able to use this to check if the leisure-battery is receiving charge from the alternator. Using that panel is described here With the motorhome's engine off and the vehicle not connected to a 240V power-supply, I'd expect the control-panel's leisure-battery state-of-charge LEDs to show 2/3 (12.6V) if the battery is well charged. When the motorhome's engine is started, I'd expect the LEDs to change to 3/3 (above 12.6V) to indicate the battery is now receiving charge from the alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecal Posted September 11 Share Posted September 11 (edited) Hi Test to see if this circuit is working . Note always make sure your earths are good (pin 4) Please see my previous notes to you Regards Edited September 11 by onecal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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