Robinhood

Having searched again, it would appear that the 2005 700 series might have been fitted with Sargent electrics (the E400 probably not). Anyway, I suspect the most appropraite wiring diagram you'll get is that posted by Derek above, see the manual here: https://www.bessacarr-owners-club.org/info-centre/manuals/motorhome/Bess-MH-Service-Book-2005.pdf

At that vintage, the electrics may well have been supplied by Nordelettronica. If so, the following wiring diagram might be useful (it's for the 400 series, but the circuitry supplying the fridge and step are likely to be similar). https://www.motorhomefacts.com/attachments/van_wiring_true_col_300_174-jpg.10708/ I'm struggling to think of any switch or relay failure that could give your symptoms, but I've only briefly considered it.

It's even worse when the people at both ends have no idea what they are talking about 🤔

...the hanger position requires some consideration as well..

It can be a bit of a nightmare. Converters may well order A RHD vehicle with LHD exhaust configuration, such that they can mount conversion components in the same place on both models. If that is the case, a LHD silencer might work. e,.g. https://coastalmotorhomes.co.uk/fiat-ducato-peugeot-boxer-citroen-relay-lhd-rear-exhaust-box-2-2l-2-3l-06-on.html (there are other variations and suppliers check google for LHD units). Do check the configuration very carefully, though, as it might look just about right, but be subtly different. If the 'van has an al-ko chassis, then things get rather more difficult, as the exhaust systems tend to be "bespoke". Usually under these circumstances people resort to having a replacement exhaust fabricated, often in stainless steel rather than mild steel, by one of the surprisingly many supplier that will do this. Fabrication would also provide a solution for the "standard" chassis if you can't find a silencer that fits. Whilst not exactly cheap, it's not as much as one might imagine.

It's some time now since we last went to Sweden, and the travel arrangements I posted in a trip report on here have most definitely changed, so I won't link to it. However: The nearest you're going to get by ferry now is either Harwich-Hook of Holland (which we find a decent crossing, and about the most cost-effective - out overnight with a cabin, back on the day crossing, or Newcastle Ijmuiden, which we've never used). There is also still Hull-Rotterdam, but the Harwich-Hook crossing which drops you in a similar location trumps that in our opinion. The bridges are expensive, though various pre-arrangements can defray the cost, they do change from time-to-time. If you're happy to bypass Denmark, using the TT-Lines ferry from Germany, either Travemünde (generally cheaper) or Rostock to Trelleborg, can be both convenient and cost-effective (particularly if one of their "camper" offers is available at your desired time). I dismissed this option when we went, on the basis that departure/arrival times in Sweden were not particularly attractive. Then I discovered the Ställplats adjacent to the ferry at Trelleborg (when we called in the nearby supermarket). It's not particularly scenic, but it is functional and very convenient for late arrivals/early departures. (If it's still functioning, the one at Smygehuk about 10 miles away is considerably more scenic). There's a choice of official overnight places near the ports at Rostock and Travemünde.

I don't know what is being bought in Germany, but ebay.de is awash with listings for Angles Morts stickers depicting "Wohnmobile".

It appears to be a BCA unit, for which Apuljack provide repair options (and a replacement fascia). https://www.apuljackelectronics.co.uk/MANUFACTURERS/BCA__c-p-0-0-19-66.aspx

Whilst in the past many three-way fridges didn't have thermostatic control on 12V, it was more likely that this would result in over-cooling on that source rather than the opposite. Many/most now have such control on 12V. Certainly the specifications of the current range of Thetford (and Dometic) absorption fridges indicate that the cooling (heating) power consumption in watts is rather similar for both 230V and 12V operation, and though the latter is usually a smidgin' lower, it really shouldn't be enough to make any material difference. The conclusion I'd come to is that most current (and recent) fridges should perform very similarly on both 230V and 12V operation. (assuming similar cooling efficiency per watt input from either source) Quoted gas consumption indicates that the cooling performance on that source might be slightly higher (or slightly less energy efficient 😉)

A portable solar panel I bought a good few years ago cam with a surface mount din/hella 12v socket for permanent positioning on the 'van connected to the battery, and a din/hella 12v plug connected to the wiring from the solar regulator on the panel. It worked well over a number of 'vans. As an example (not necessarily a recommendation for purchase - similar items are widely available) https://www.roadpro.co.uk/product/20e-procar-12v-24v-din-sockets/procar-surface-mounted-din-socket-c0207/C0207 https://www.roadpro.co.uk/product/20d-procar-12v-24v-din-plugs/procar-53005000-15a-din-standard-plug-loose-min-order-50-c0213/C0213

I think, being more clear (I hope), that in France a vehicle originally registered as a motorcaravan will be described as a "caravane" on its documents. A vehicle originally registered as a commercial vehicle or private (non-motorcaravan) with a maximum weight of 3.5 tonnes can, subject to conversion, qualification and certification be homologated and re-registered under the "VASP" category. As the latter category doesn't exist in the UK, but it is still possible, with rather more hoops to go through than once was the case, to re-register a similar-origin vehicle as a motor caravan, effectively we are saying that if your UK vehicle has "motor caravan" at D5, then the derogation will apply by alignment with "caravane".

Under the link I posted above, there is a reference and further link to the actual decree showing the derogations. Patently the detail is subject to both my French translation skills, and an understanding of vehicle classification in France. The derogation to June '24 is described as applying to "les vehicules de type autocaravane portant les mentions "VASP" et "CARAVANE" sur le certificat d'immatricualtion" VASP is a category that covers (certified) self-converted camper vans up to 3.5 tonnes, but there is no weight limit associated with the "caravane" definition.

Latest details here (I think): https://metropole-rouen-normandie.fr/zone-faibles-emissions-mobilite (let Google translate) A13 is shown on the map as being outside the LEZ (which itself should still be accessible with a "3" or lower Crit' Air sticker. (At least, that's my interpretation 😉 )

...what, wear it on his watch-chain? 🤣

...have you checked whether it is possible to get the battery(ies) re-celled?... (Generally only possible if the battery is cased and can be removed from (within) the frame, which isn't obvious from your post.)

...I have... 😉

I'm pretty sure that's a picture of a (2014-on) X290. Even on that the washer bottle doesn't need the flap removing for filling, only the coolant and power steering, the washer filler being exposed in the far rear corner to the left as you look at it. On the preceding X250 (which is what the OP's vehicle is likely to be), the scuttle design is different, and the fluids should be stacked front to back to the left as you look at the engine bay, with engine coolant, power steering and then washer bottle tucked away at the back (fiddly to access, but no need to remove anything).

Yes. Though we would have liked a little longer, that was all we could loosen up between family commitments. Some things to note, though: As the trip log highlights, it was a bit of a road trip, only do-able with good distances between stops. The driving doesn't faze me (and the roads were generally clear and easy) but it might others. It was also assisted by the Harwich-Esbjerg ferry, which no longer runs. All the arrival points on the Continent might now require several more days to get up to the same starting point. Our particular experience was helped by the rather good weather, and the extended light evenings of the chosen season, meaning we could get good exploring in after arriving at a site, even after a long drive. I'd do it again, but ideally with a few more days (especially given the ferry situation).

...not via the Baltic States, but we have done the trip round the Gulf of Bothnia up via Finland and back via Sweden. Would love to do it again, and The Wilderness Road would be one of the targets. You may cull some info from my 2013 trip report:

The Peugeot 2.8 hdi/Fiat 2.8jtd suffer(ed) from a short wiring loom to number 4 injector which used to exhibit similar symptoms (particularly EML under acceleration as the engine moved somewhat and put more tension on the wiring). No guarantee that it is your issue, but it was common. I had my 2006 Fiat fixed under warranty. If you Google you'll get numerous hits like this: https://www.motorhomefacts.com/threads/peugeot-fiat-citroen-2004-engine-management-fault-rectified.79706/

I bought from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334493285204?hash=item4de15a7b54:g:8qAAAOSwcKViwvFQ ...though this doesn't appear to be the same listing. (there are other variants in this seller's shop). I'm really not sure how much there is to choose between the various suppliers (you'll only know when you receive one), I suspect many of them come from similar sources. As already discussed, mine patently isn't quite as robust as an OE version, but it functions, has lasted 18 months so far, and with the addition of mirror protectors has survived a further recent blow. (Sufficient enough to knock the main glass out, but it was retained, hanging, by the "heating" wires and was easily remounted). You'd find it hard to distinguish visually from an OE unit without studying hard. Again, a warning to check exactly what the spec of yours is (mine was electrically heated and adjusted with the temperature sensor - the latter on the replacement is mounted in a different place but functions as per the original). ...and, another tip: these mirrors come with two different indicator specs and lenses - 5W and 16W. Commonly, motorhomes come with 16w, but not all those advertised do. If the indicator on the broken mirror has survived, it can be substituted if you receive the different version. Adjust the mirror fully over and the two mounting screws are accessible. (Installing a wattage different from that installed at the factory is likely to throw Canbus errors).

The fitting would be very simple without Remis Blinds being mounted, but they (the door blind) obscure one of the mirror mounting screws. I wasn't looking forward to removing the blind, but I watched a YouTube video that reckoned it was reasonably straightforward, and it turned out to be so. The various electrical connectors are secured in the door cavity, but can be accessed by carefully levering out the window/mirror switch unit in the door arm. It's then a bit like working through a letterbox, and if you drop a connector the door trim will probably have to come off. As above, check what your mirror contains - the temperature sensor (if fitted) is generally in that unit. (Even without protectors, you're unlikely to note a mismatch - they're hardly next to each other!).

Frankly, though complete Fiat OE mirrors are pretty expensive, aftermarket ones can be picked up relatively cheaply. They generally don't feel as robust as the genuine item, but they match and are functional. It's certainly an option to consider as an alternative to a bodge. I had mine virtually destroyed by a white-van man in Devon; he didn't stop though I did. I sourced an aftermarket replacement that has sufficed since (and with mirror protectors survived a blow in German two weeks ago). Fitting isn't particularly difficult, though if you have Remis blinds the Remis door fitting has to come off (I found it easier than expected). The only fiddly bit is retrieving the wiring connections from within the door arm (by removing the arm switch module) - you don't want to drop the wires inside the door. If you wish to buy, you need to know long/medium/short arm, and any additional functions (such as heated, temperature sensor) before purchasing, and make sure you get a RHD version (assuming you are RHD). There are numerous suppliers - this is simply an example giving an idea of price (and with no experience, it isn't a personal recommend). https://ultimatestyling.co.uk/wing-mirror-door-mirror-drivers-side-rh-citroen-relay-fiat-ducato-peugeot-boxer-and-others-ult9364-mm

This video should give you some insight:

..as you were, then Stand easy.,.