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Keithl

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Posts posted by Keithl

  1. It would also be worth checking that the wheel nuts or bolts on the alloy wheels are suitable for the steel wheels. They may have a different head shape, ie cone or ball seat, or if bolts require a different length to prevent damage inside the wheel hub.

    Keith.

  2. 5 minutes ago, malc d said:

    We used to have problems BEFORE we had a reel - but not since.
    I just lay it in reasonably straight lines on the grass first, and then wind it on to the reel - never had a problem.

    🙂

    Malc,

    Do you turn the reel to wind the cable on or hold the reel still and loop the cable over the reel?

    The first way should be ok but the second way will almost certainly result in kinking.

    Keith.

  3. Hi Louisa,

    I'm assuming your Rimor has the standard Sprinter chassis with possibly an extended rear overhang. If so the typical way of adding the MH rear lights is by adding a junction box at what was the rear of the Sprinter chassis on the LH side. It may be worth following the wiring loom along the chassis rail and look for such a junction box. You may find a loose or corroded connection in the junction box.

    You say you have checked the fuses but how? If it was a simple visual 'look' then try checking for voltage with a multimeter through the two little holes in the top of the fuse while the fuse is still in the fuse box. Do you have the fuse box layout showing which fuses are lighting? And I'm assuming you know you have two fuse boxes, one on the steering column and the other on the side of the drivers seat base.

    Keith.

  4. You say both bulbs are out but have you confirmed that power is getting to the rear of the chassis? It is unusual for both bulbs to blow and often a lack of power causing the fault.

    AutoTrail used to fit a junction box at the rear of the chassis at the point where there chassis extensions were added so can you look and see if you have anything like a junction box to check for power.

    Keith.

  5. 30 minutes ago, Kevjan said:

    So working on the tyre pressure being on what your axle weight at any given time  you would have to weigh your van and adjust the tyre pressure each time you use it. I would think that most van's either van conversion or coach build are very close to manufacture max weight most of the time. 

    In reality most MH's will remain within a fairly small weight range so not necessary to weigh every time.

    Most likely close to max GVW but one axle may still be somewhat below its maximum allowable weight so can run at a lower pressure for an improved ride.

  6. In theory yes but... the figures for the tyre pressure on each axle are based on that axle being at the maximum allowed weight and as we all know the sum of the two axles permitted weight is typically greater than the GVW to allow for positioning of any load. So if either axle is below the permitted maximum then the tyres on that axle can be run at a lower pressure. 

  7. 7 minutes ago, Kevjan said:

    Hi all, i took my Peugeot Boxer to the weight bridge when we first got it, I only weighed the total weight which was 3440 kgs that was half tank water, full tank fuel, 2 people and everything to go away for 2 week's so not far from the max gross weight so i run the tyre pressure at the Peugeot recommended laden weight, surely that is the correct thing to do. Kevin

    But how do you know that one or other axle is not overloaded whilst still being within your GVW?

  8. Derek,

    I already have a copy of the Conti data book you linked thanks and have been using various versions over the last few years.

    I was curious what info Conti had provided in response to Ainsley's enquiry.

    And I am pretty certain Ainsley confirmed his tyre size in another thread, possibly the one were you asked him to confirm his MH make and model.

    Keith.

  9. From the Atlantic caravans website it seems like you need professional help from the outset, and imo if they can't help I doubt anyone will be able to...

    "The code will either start with an E for error, or a W for warning. An E code means that something has gone wrong with the hardware of the boiler and there isn't much that can be done without some professional help, but a W fault can normally be resolved with a re set once the issue has been rectified."

    https://www.atlanticcaravans.co.uk/combi-error-codes

    If I can find any more I will add another post.

    Keith.

  10. 7 minutes ago, Alanb said:

    The 2.8jtd does not use glow plugs.

    Most common cold start device is a flame starter. This consists of a single glow plug/injector inserted into the input manifold.

    The brief, 0.5 second, operation of the glow plug light is a self check function only.

    OMG! I never realised how old school these engines were! Makes me realise even more now why I have never worked on them.

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