Keithl

@ianM MMM recently published this online guide to MH weights, may be worth a read... https://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/motorhomes/articles/practical-advice/motorhome-weight-and-payload-a-beginners-guide

Yes I understand, so the flyscreen is permanently attached between the blackout blind and the top of the frame. Looks like you're going to have to remove the entire frame to effect a repair. Start looking for fixing screws, possibly hidden by plastic caps.

Good idea! @Goneoff If you follow the two brown wires connected to the Negative terminal where do they go? If both go to the DC-DC charger then try removing and insulating them and see what happens.

@TRIGGER Any idea how old that tyre was? Or what is the date marking on your other tyres, assuming them to be of a similar age?

If the mesh is attached to the concertina blind how do you access the handles to open the skylight?

@teccer1234 Was there any evidence of the net being sewn into a pocket across that edge? My bathroom window had and I had to resew the pocket to prevent it pulling out again.

How easy does the whole surround come off the roof?

Yes, my window was a very small bathroom window and was a pain so I wouldn't envisage a skylight being any easier!

ALL connections must be to the chassis side of the shunt. NO connections can made directly to the battery negative terminal A basic code reader will only be able to read generic engine emission faults, you need a code reader capable of reading the codes from your MBS. Something like ECUMultiscan or maybe a Snap On or Autel reader. The code may not even be caused by the BMS???

@Zydeco Joe That looks exactly like how the flyscreen in our bathroom window failed many years ago! There is a small pocket sewn across the bottom of the flyscreen mesh with a round plastic filler rod slid into it. the mesh and rod are then slid into the groove on the aluminium bar. You may have to fully dismantle the screen and housing to slide the rod out then back in again after resewing the pocket. There looks to be evidence of the sewing having failed in your photo.

I totally agree and is why I suspect Phil's ( @Goneoff) MH is not charging. @John52 is your Fiat current shunt correctly plugged in? If it is then you need to scan your BMS to find out why the EML is on.

I would not recommend unplugging the ECM unless it is absolutely necessary as the pins are small and delicate and easily damaged. I think we have established the wiring of the DC-DC charger is at fault and are waiting for Phil to come back and say whether he has wiring diagrams.

From a quick search I am going to agree with Alan that your brown wires are incorrectly connected to the wrong end of the BMS shunt. Looking at the Victron energy website https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/SmartShunt/en/installation.html it clearly states... "Connect the negative battery terminal to the M10 bolt on the "BATTERY MINUS" side of the shunt. Note that there should be no other connections on this side of the shunt or on the negative battery terminal." As you bought the MH second hand you have no way of knowing if a previous owner changed the position of the wiring when maybe replacing the battery or having the trailer light wiring added. Do you have a Burstner wiring diagram in your Owners handbook or could you contact Burstner to ask where these wires should be connected? Failing this to will need the services of an auto electrician familiar with the Ducato BMS and additional wiring. Keith.

From those graphs the underlying battery voltage is definitely falling over the 30 day period but that may simply due to the fact it is not being fully recharged. What the graphs do show me is that the alternator is NOT reliably recharging the starter battery, only occasionally peaking at over 13 volts and certainly not for any sustained length of time. As you do not know how long this problem has been occurring it could be for one of two reasons... First the DC-DC setup is not compatible with your smart alternator system and is drawing power from the starter battery rather than the alternator as the alternator is not aware of its presence, or... Second, your smart alternator system has failed and is not charging either battery. More detailed investigation is required to ascertain your true fault. And I suspect if you did fit a new starter battery it would suffer the same fate in a short time.

Phil, The 'Ryder TF ...' box looks like a trailer light module so is unlikely to be your problem. My thoughts are that your starter battery is NOT being charged by your alternator but your DC-DC charger is still trying to charge your leisure battery from your starter battery hence draining the starter battery. Does your Phantom app show live voltage reading or can you get a multimeter and measure the starter battery voltage with the engine running?

@Goneoff A bit of back story may help here please... How long have you owned the MH and has this problem suddenly appeared or been evident for a while, maybe not so pronounced as now, eg slow cranking? Is your MH a commercially available model, from a smaller converter or maybe self-build? What split charge system do you have fitted? eg simple split charge relay, B2B, etc. Do you have solar installed, this may explain the starter battery voltage rising while you waited for recovery. What type of fridge do you have fitted, compressor or absorption, and do you know how it is wired? Finally can you monitor either starter or leisure battery voltage while driving? Keith.

Not sure what problem you're having but the website works for me and they are still trading according to Gov.uk https://broadbandgo.com/#/ https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/12468891

The radio can be wired directly to the leisure battery thereby negating the need to have the habitation electrics turned on while driving. In fact this is how AutoTrail has done it for many years, my 2004 is most certainly wired this way from the factory.

We had a full width towbar/bumper made and fitted by TowTal in Stoke on Trent https://towtal.co.uk/towbars/ It is really well made and offers a lot of protection to the rear of the MH, the only thing letting it down was the paint finish so we had it powder coated after two years. Keith.

As you do not have a UK base how will you register, tax and insure the MH in the UK? Unless a relative or friend will allow you to use their address then I do not know of any other way of doing it. And do you have a UK driving licence or can you drive a UK registered MH on whatever licence you do have? Would it be cheaper and less hassle to rent a MH in the UK when you need one?

Pete, As the recall includes a free oil change then my guess would be they are replacing the oil level/quality sensor which iirc is on the back of the engine and protrudes down into the sump.

Could you add something like an early Sprinter wide angle mirror upside down to the bottom of your existing mirror? This would only entail drilling two small holes in the mirror housing without touching the bodywork. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125634493074 but check other suppliers and MB van dealers for price. There are LH and RH versions available so not sure which will be best for you. They attach with two small screws through the original casing into brass insert nuts in the new casing (visible in the pic). I have them on my MH and for a wide angle view would not be without them.

I think you are in for a BIG shock if you where to actually weigh a MH wheel and tyre! Having recently taken all the wheels off my MH my guess would be more like 30 to 40 kg! Just found a late model Sprinter wheel and tyre weighs 34 kg so there you go! But I do have a spare and would never consider travelling without it.

Do you know the make and model of control panel? The likes of http://www.apuljackengineering.co.uk/ or https://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/ may be able offer a repair service?

Can you post a photo please so we know what you are looking for?