Keithl

@rayc Can you post a screenshot or convert to a jpeg and post?

And it once again appears we are all talking amongst ourselves as the OP @paul evo hasn't logged on since posting his question on Friday.

Paul, Are you sure a year 2000 Peugeot Boxer 1.9TD is Euro 4? The reason I ask is Euro 3 was for vehicles registered around 2000 to 2001 and Euro 4 was not introduced until 2005 to 2006 and I very much doubt that Peugeot were that far ahead of the game! And your year 2000 may actually only be Euro 2! Keith.

The Owners Handbook for a 2024 model states 60 kg so your 2017 should be very similar. Do you not have the Owners Handbook for your model? https://erwin-hymer.builtbybeluga.com/media/pages/models/autoquest-115/4fc61f84a3-1698317902/2024-season-motorhome-handbook.pdf

Brian, The Sprinter and Crafter used to be one and the same, much like all the Sevel variants, but since the split of VW and MB in 2016 they have been unique designs. Here is a not too recent article on the differences https://www.vansdirect.co.uk/blognews/vw-crafter-vs-mercedes-sprinter-what-are-the-differences/ Keith.

It would also be worth checking that the wheel nuts or bolts on the alloy wheels are suitable for the steel wheels. They may have a different head shape, ie cone or ball seat, or if bolts require a different length to prevent damage inside the wheel hub. Keith.

Add a 'Signature' with your vehicle details then 👍

@arthur49 What is the base vehicle and year of your MH? Someone may be able to suggest a better place to obtain a D+ signal if you told us. Keith.

Malc, Do you turn the reel to wind the cable on or hold the reel still and loop the cable over the reel? The first way should be ok but the second way will almost certainly result in kinking. Keith.

Looks like they are available in the UK so hopefully you can get them in Aus... https://www.jacksonsleisure.com/caravan-campervan-motorhome/remis-cab-blinds-for-mercedes-sprinter-2019-onwards/ Keith.

My suggestion - ditch the reel and wind by hand using the 'Over and under' technique. I have been doing this for over 15 years and my 25 m cable does not have a single kink or twist! Try this video Keith.

Paul, Click on 'Shows' in the main header line and it will take you straight to the Shows webpage... Keith.

Fresh air into the air filter.

Or if they where both installed at the same time that they where both equally poorly installed! Maybe no sealant on either?

The first thing to do is work out exactly where they are leaking! Is it between the van body and rubber or rubber and 'glass'? Could you possibly add a photo of the sealing arrangement when the window is opened? Keith.

Hi Louisa, I'm assuming your Rimor has the standard Sprinter chassis with possibly an extended rear overhang. If so the typical way of adding the MH rear lights is by adding a junction box at what was the rear of the Sprinter chassis on the LH side. It may be worth following the wiring loom along the chassis rail and look for such a junction box. You may find a loose or corroded connection in the junction box. You say you have checked the fuses but how? If it was a simple visual 'look' then try checking for voltage with a multimeter through the two little holes in the top of the fuse while the fuse is still in the fuse box. Do you have the fuse box layout showing which fuses are lighting? And I'm assuming you know you have two fuse boxes, one on the steering column and the other on the side of the drivers seat base. Keith.

You say both bulbs are out but have you confirmed that power is getting to the rear of the chassis? It is unusual for both bulbs to blow and often a lack of power causing the fault. AutoTrail used to fit a junction box at the rear of the chassis at the point where there chassis extensions were added so can you look and see if you have anything like a junction box to check for power. Keith.

OK Thanks for clarifying that. Unfortunately since the sad passing of Allan Evans A and N no longer post on this forum. Keith.

@D Ward Dennis, Sorry but who was this enquiry meant to be addressed to? Obviously not on a MH forum.

Pete, Plug or socket? You say plug in the thread title and socket in the text!

In reality most MH's will remain within a fairly small weight range so not necessary to weigh every time. Most likely close to max GVW but one axle may still be somewhat below its maximum allowable weight so can run at a lower pressure for an improved ride.

No, you can exchange them for alternative sizes. https://www.calor.co.uk/news-and-views/update-to-cylinder-range

In theory yes but... the figures for the tyre pressure on each axle are based on that axle being at the maximum allowed weight and as we all know the sum of the two axles permitted weight is typically greater than the GVW to allow for positioning of any load. So if either axle is below the permitted maximum then the tyres on that axle can be run at a lower pressure.

Yes, but to do that correctly you need individual axle weights to get correct front and rear tyre pressures.

But how do you know that one or other axle is not overloaded whilst still being within your GVW?