Keithl

Agree, I tend to go straight to the Conti Technical Data Book but my current link doesn't work! So here is the 2020-2021 data book https://cdn.ndias.com/DK/_Content/brochurer/download-technical-databook.pdf

Mike, Get your MH weighed and get individual front and rear axle weights then use one of the online load v pressure tables or the Tyre-Safe calculator and get accurate pressures to run at. You can start with plated max axle weights until you can get true axle weights. https://www.tyresafe.org/motorhome-tyre-pressure/

My take is that that is marketing hype, unless anyone can prove otherwise ??? I am now on my third set of Conti C rated tyres and only have 37,500 miles on the clock so they do a LOT of standing around and I have never experienced any kind of sidewall cracking or flat spotting. I have changed both previous sets at ten years from date of manufacture as Conti advise and there were no signs of any adverse conditions when removed, call me oversafe but that is my preference. Keith.

If you think the Camper or CP tyres are too hard riding because you have to inflate to (what I deem) excessive pressures then why not look at C or Commercial tyres? For example my 3,800 kg AT runs on Continental C tyres at 48 psi front and 60 psi rear according to the Continental Data Book and results in a smooth ride. Keith.

Hi Den, Our AT has a French bed with a rounded corner and we bought a Dunelm memory foam topper, something like 50 mm thick. I took the zipped cover off then drew a pencil line round underneath before turning it over and cutting it with a sharp kitchen knife. I've heard that an electric carving knife is also good to cut foam but the bread knife worked well enough on ours. Pretty easy really and it made a massive improvement to the comfort as the original mattress is in three pieces and you felt all the joins! PS And it was over 15 years ago so has stood the test of time! Keith.

You could try O'Leary's for the board but not sure how you would transport it if a large sheet! https://www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/

We just use a standard fitted sheet and tuck the corner underneath. I did cut the corner off the memory foam mattress topper but even then only tucked the extra bit of cover under. Keith.

What do the T&C's of your warranty say? Surely this is the definitive source. Keith.

These would be far more effective if they were mounted flat on the handlebars of ALL cycles so the cyclist saw them every time they looked down and not just when they were to trying to squeeze alongside a huge lorry or coach! And does a mis-spelling of 'TOTER WINKEL' apply to such cyclists?

"You're going to need a considerably bigger MH!!!" 🤣 🤣 🤣

Ask the question the other way, why would you want to leave them on? IMO they look hideous and should only be on trucks!

The top left switch looks like it will turn on the power from the 'aux' (or habitation) battery. If not then it will turn on an 'auxiliary' device such as an awning light. The central switch will changeover power usage (and maybe charging) from the 'aux' (habitation) battery to the vehicle battery. Keith.

And the good news there is you do NOT need a class C1 licence to drive it so your son is OK. The 2927 kg MIRO is also good news as that means your UNLADEN weight is obviously lower and well below the restricted speed limit threshold of 3,050 kg. Assuming the 2007 on your VIN plate is something near the year of registration then it is unlikely you will have a second VIN plate but the downplating may be just by a sticker as Jeremy has said above. My 2004 AT has been up-plated by AT at manufacture by a simple sticker down behind the RH headlight and is not immediately obvious. Keith.

I agree with Ray, you must hold a C1 licence to drive it. It is based on plated weight and actual weight is irrelevant. If you found you needed more payload you could possibly get it up-plated to nearer the combined axle limits, ie nearer 4,100 kg. Again as a paper exercise by the likes of SV Tech.

The PCD of those two wheels looks to be different! Try measuring the distance between two adjacent wheel bolts. I suspect one is a Midi (Correction - Light) chassis and the other a Maxi chassis.

What year is your Swift 624? This may help identify the PSU.

Shop around! We have had stupid increases on our policies at renewal so have shopped around for better deals, don't just go with the first quote is my rule now. Keith.

If release oil won't work then try heat!

In which case Alan's Tessoro may be a 2022 model as that did not have the central locking on the hab door https://www.marquisleisure.co.uk/storage/214888/NEW_Tessoro_2022_Features_Sheet_updated_7th_Mar.pdf 2022 But the 2023 Features sheet currently on the Marquis website differs from the one you show above https://www.marquisleisure.co.uk/storage/949438/Tessoro-2023-Features-Sheet-April-23.pdf

Yes on the CAB doors but not on the HABITATION door that Alan is asking about.

And don't forget you will also need a 'door open switch' to tell the alarm unit that a door has been opened and to cancel the auto re-lock feature, otherwise you will find yourself locked out if you only open the hab door.

Have you checked that the drain valve for the heater has been closed? It may be either a lever type or a pull up knob?

Andy, Do they mean output current or voltage? Some Lithium batteries require a specific voltage to charge, iirc this a maximum voltage and an alternator designed for a FLA battery has too high an output voltage whereas an alternator designed for an AGM battery is OK. Keith.

Again looks correct here...

Your post appears perfectly normal to me so maybe a setting at your end?